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Burnt Valve Question
Before I go taking off the head of this 1.0L Metro engine I'd like to know
how a burnt valve acts in relation to the performance of the engine. What it is doing is acting like a bad miss. Like it even has water in the gas. It sputters and misses when it's under load [like climbing a hill or mountain]. On straight roads when the load is reduced it straightens out and runs well. I'm going to do a compression check here in a little bit and also change the plugs, wires and distributor cap before I get into the head. We just bought this thing knowing it has a problem and the seller seems to think he burned a valve. It also produces a puff of oil related smoke out of the exhaust just after you start it [cold] and put it into gear. It quickly goes away when shifting out of 1st and doesn't come back again until it cools off and restarts. |
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"mbjj" > wrote in message link.net... > Before I go taking off the head of this 1.0L Metro engine I'd like to know > how a burnt valve acts in relation to the performance of the engine. What it > is doing is acting like a bad miss. Like it even has water in the gas. It > sputters and misses when it's under load [like climbing a hill or > mountain]. On straight roads when the load is reduced it straightens out > and runs well. I'm going to do a compression check here in a little bit and > also change the plugs, wires and distributor cap before I get into the > head. We just bought this thing knowing it has a problem and the seller > seems to think he burned a valve. It also produces a puff of oil related > smoke out of the exhaust just after you start it [cold] and put it into > gear. It quickly goes away when shifting out of 1st and doesn't come back > again until it cools off and restarts. The puff of blue smoke after a cold start often indicates worn valve guides and/or degraded valve guide seals. These seals are often easy to replace without pulling the head. If you have a burned valve, it often shows up as a dead or nearly dead cylinder. At higher RPM the effect of a dead cylinder is less noticeable, but the loss of power is obvious. The engine may miss, or sometimes even backfire. You can listen for a burned or poorly seating valve by disconnecting the spark plugs so the engine wont start, and turn the engine over with the starter. If every cylinder is sealing about the same, you should have a consistent rhythm. If one, or more, valves are burned, you will hear something different....like wa -wa - WAH-wa-wa-WAH A compression test is a better way. |
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mbjj wrote:
> > Before I go taking off the head of this 1.0L Metro engine I'd like to know > how a burnt valve acts in relation to the performance of the engine. What it > is doing is acting like a bad miss. Like it even has water in the gas. It > sputters and misses when it's under load [like climbing a hill or > mountain]. On straight roads when the load is reduced it straightens out > and runs well. I'm going to do a compression check here in a little bit and > also change the plugs, wires and distributor cap before I get into the > head. We just bought this thing knowing it has a problem and the seller > seems to think he burned a valve. It also produces a puff of oil related > smoke out of the exhaust just after you start it [cold] and put it into > gear. It quickly goes away when shifting out of 1st and doesn't come back > again until it cools off and restarts. The 1.0 3-cyl is notorious for burning exhaust valves. The effect is to lose compression on one one cylinder, creating a miss. Just get a rebuilt head and install it along with a new timing belt and you'll be fine. The last one I did the head was $325 at the local rebuilder. JazzMan -- ************************************************** ******** Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net. Curse those darned bulk e-mailers! ************************************************** ******** "Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry ************************************************** ******** |
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"JazzMan" > wrote in message ... > mbjj wrote: > > > > Before I go taking off the head of this 1.0L Metro engine I'd like to know > > how a burnt valve acts in relation to the performance of the engine. What it > > is doing is acting like a bad miss. Like it even has water in the gas. It > > sputters and misses when it's under load [like climbing a hill or > > mountain]. On straight roads when the load is reduced it straightens out > > and runs well. I'm going to do a compression check here in a little bit and > > also change the plugs, wires and distributor cap before I get into the > > head. We just bought this thing knowing it has a problem and the seller > > seems to think he burned a valve. It also produces a puff of oil related > > smoke out of the exhaust just after you start it [cold] and put it into > > gear. It quickly goes away when shifting out of 1st and doesn't come back > > again until it cools off and restarts. > > The 1.0 3-cyl is notorious for burning exhaust valves. The > effect is to lose compression on one one cylinder, creating > a miss. Just get a rebuilt head and install it along with > a new timing belt and you'll be fine. The last one I did > the head was $325 at the local rebuilder. > > JazzMan Usually a machine shop will grind the valves, install new seals, and even true the mating surface for a lot less than that. Essentially a head rebuild... is there something special about this one that would make you pay for a head exchange at this cost rather than revamping the old one? |
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