94 Caravan - fuel pump won't run

aarcuda69062 wrote:

>
> Okay, a 3.0 it is...
> Pin 3 gets 12 volt battery feed via the 15 amp 'engine' fuse in
> the underhood power distribution center.
> This should be 12 volts all the time.
>
> Pin 9 is 12 volts ignition feed (ignition switched) via the 10
> amp #16 fuse in the instrument panel fuse block.
> This should be 12 volts with the ignition in the start or run
> position.
>
> Pins 11 and 12 are power grounds.

It's supposed to be above 5 degrees this evening, so I'll try to get
back to it. I seem to remember at least 2 other pins being switched
12V, though - maybe like 31-32, or 32-33? It sounds like pin 3 is the
problem child, though.

KC

In article
.com>,
wrote:

> It's supposed to be above 5 degrees this evening, so I'll try to get
> back to it. I seem to remember at least 2 other pins being switched
> 12V, though - maybe like 31-32, or 32-33? It sounds like pin 3 is the
> problem child, though.

Pin 31 is 'Low speed fan relay'.
Pin 32 is empty.
Pin 33 is for 'cruise control'.

If pin 3 is dead, and the engine fuse in the PDC has no voltage
on either side, I'd be checking inside the PDC for a broken buss.

In article
.com>,
wrote:

> It's supposed to be above 5 degrees this evening, so I'll try to get
> back to it. I seem to remember at least 2 other pins being switched
> 12V, though - maybe like 31-32, or 32-33? It sounds like pin 3 is the
> problem child, though.

Pin 31 is 'Low speed fan relay'.
Pin 32 is empty.
Pin 33 is for 'cruise control'.

If pin 3 is dead, and the engine fuse in the PDC has no voltage
on either side, I'd be checking inside the PDC for a broken buss.

Check the ignition switch, check the bulk head connector, for 12 volts on
both inside and outside of it,
"aarcuda69062" > wrote in message
...
> In article
> .com>,
> wrote:
>
> > It's supposed to be above 5 degrees this evening, so I'll try to get
> > back to it. I seem to remember at least 2 other pins being switched
> > 12V, though - maybe like 31-32, or 32-33? It sounds like pin 3 is the
> > problem child, though.
>
> Pin 31 is 'Low speed fan relay'.
> Pin 32 is empty.
> Pin 33 is for 'cruise control'.
>
> If pin 3 is dead, and the engine fuse in the PDC has no voltage
> on either side, I'd be checking inside the PDC for a broken buss.

Check the ignition switch, check the bulk head connector, for 12 volts on
both inside and outside of it,
"aarcuda69062" > wrote in message
...
> In article
> .com>,
> wrote:
>
> > It's supposed to be above 5 degrees this evening, so I'll try to get
> > back to it. I seem to remember at least 2 other pins being switched
> > 12V, though - maybe like 31-32, or 32-33? It sounds like pin 3 is the
> > problem child, though.
>
> Pin 31 is 'Low speed fan relay'.
> Pin 32 is empty.
> Pin 33 is for 'cruise control'.
>
> If pin 3 is dead, and the engine fuse in the PDC has no voltage
> on either side, I'd be checking inside the PDC for a broken buss.

In article >,
"maxpower" > wrote:

> Check the ignition switch, check the bulk head connector, for 12 volts on
> both inside and outside of it,

The ignition switch has nothing to do with B+ voltage on pin 3 of
the PCM.

In article >,
"maxpower" > wrote:

> Check the ignition switch, check the bulk head connector, for 12 volts on
> both inside and outside of it,

The ignition switch has nothing to do with B+ voltage on pin 3 of
the PCM.

Found it. The red/white wire feeding B+ to pin 3 of the SBEC was
corroded badly about 5 inches from the SBEC. I was pulling on it to
get a little slack to jumper it, and it broke. Green copper doesn't
conduct well, apparently. Strange place to corrode, but there it was.
I jumpered it to the correct fuse in the box (soldered, heatshrinked,
and taped), and it started right up.

Thanks to all you guys for the help, especially Daniel Stern and
aarcuda. Trying to fix electrical problems is next to impossible
without the factory wiring diagrams. Plus, a logical approach to
troubleshooting really helps.

Signing off for now
KC

Found it. The red/white wire feeding B+ to pin 3 of the SBEC was
corroded badly about 5 inches from the SBEC. I was pulling on it to
get a little slack to jumper it, and it broke. Green copper doesn't
conduct well, apparently. Strange place to corrode, but there it was.
I jumpered it to the correct fuse in the box (soldered, heatshrinked,
and taped), and it started right up.

Thanks to all you guys for the help, especially Daniel Stern and
aarcuda. Trying to fix electrical problems is next to impossible
without the factory wiring diagrams. Plus, a logical approach to
troubleshooting really helps.

Signing off for now
KC

In article
.com>,
wrote:

> Found it. The red/white wire feeding B+ to pin 3 of the SBEC was
> corroded badly about 5 inches from the SBEC. I was pulling on it to
> get a little slack to jumper it, and it broke. Green copper doesn't
> conduct well, apparently. Strange place to corrode, but there it was.
> I jumpered it to the correct fuse in the box (soldered, heatshrinked,
> and taped), and it started right up.
>
> Thanks to all you guys for the help, especially Daniel Stern and
> aarcuda. Trying to fix electrical problems is next to impossible
> without the factory wiring diagrams. Plus, a logical approach to
> troubleshooting really helps.
>
> Signing off for now
> KC

Excellent!