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#1
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What tools do I need?
I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted TJ, and
had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get some other stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was watching/helping screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to find the sweet spot all over again for my pinion angle. The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it last time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't find where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do it, but I'm not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort I'm sure, but if anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can measure my angles and get everything done perfectly I would be happy! I'm tired of crawling under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate to the yard, test driving, opening the gate again, crawling under, etc etc etc. Troy |
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#2
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What tools do I need?
Troy wrote:
> I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted > TJ, and had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get > some other stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was > watching/helping screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to > find the sweet spot all over again for my pinion angle. > > The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it > last time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't > find where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do > it, but I'm not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort > I'm sure, but if anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can > measure my angles and get everything done perfectly I would be happy! > I'm tired of crawling under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate > to the yard, test driving, opening the gate again, crawling under, > etc etc etc. Simple angle finder with a magnetic base and a tape measure. http://www.vincihiperformance.com/vi...LE%20METER.jpg The trick is to get both upper links exactly the same length and keep the proper shaft angle while keeping the rear axle parallel to the front. You should be able to get close enough by measuring the links from center bolt to center bolt. -- DougW |
#3
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What tools do I need?
Remember that if you have a CV rear driveshaft with a slipjoint, the pinion
should be at the same angle as the driveshaft. If you have the stock slipyoke (not recommended with a 4" lift) the pinion should be parallel with the output shaft. And that friend now owes you a 12-pack. "DougW" > wrote in message news:i8FOg.12365$JR5.10661@dukeread11... > Troy wrote: >> I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted >> TJ, and had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get >> some other stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was >> watching/helping screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to >> find the sweet spot all over again for my pinion angle. >> >> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it >> last time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't >> find where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do >> it, but I'm not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort >> I'm sure, but if anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can >> measure my angles and get everything done perfectly I would be happy! >> I'm tired of crawling under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate >> to the yard, test driving, opening the gate again, crawling under, >> etc etc etc. > > Simple angle finder with a magnetic base and a tape measure. > http://www.vincihiperformance.com/vi...LE%20METER.jpg > > The trick is to get both upper links exactly the same length and keep the > proper > shaft angle while keeping the rear axle parallel to the front. You should > be > able to get close enough by measuring the links from center bolt to center > bolt. > > -- > DougW > > > |
#4
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What tools do I need?
Ok thats simple enough. I'll have to tackle it after the weekend, but I'll
let you know how it went. Thanks! Troy "DougW" > wrote in message news:i8FOg.12365$JR5.10661@dukeread11... > Troy wrote: >> I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted >> TJ, and had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get >> some other stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was >> watching/helping screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to >> find the sweet spot all over again for my pinion angle. >> >> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it >> last time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't >> find where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do >> it, but I'm not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort >> I'm sure, but if anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can >> measure my angles and get everything done perfectly I would be happy! >> I'm tired of crawling under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate >> to the yard, test driving, opening the gate again, crawling under, >> etc etc etc. > > Simple angle finder with a magnetic base and a tape measure. > http://www.vincihiperformance.com/vi...LE%20METER.jpg > > The trick is to get both upper links exactly the same length and keep the > proper > shaft angle while keeping the rear axle parallel to the front. You should > be > able to get close enough by measuring the links from center bolt to center > bolt. > > -- > DougW > > > |
#5
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What tools do I need?
Yeah, I have the cv driveshaft with a slipjoint. Recently rebuilt from a
previous problem so I'm miffed about having vibes again. So the pinion should be pretty much straight in line with the driveshaft eh? I'll go eyeball it one more time for today. I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh. Ah and that "friend" heh heh, does owe me some beer now. He thinks he did something major wrong to my baby, I haven't told him its a minor thing yet, just letting him sweat it out for a day. Troy "Matt Macchiarolo" > wrote in message . .. > Remember that if you have a CV rear driveshaft with a slipjoint, the > pinion should be at the same angle as the driveshaft. If you have the > stock slipyoke (not recommended with a 4" lift) the pinion should be > parallel with the output shaft. > > And that friend now owes you a 12-pack. > > "DougW" > wrote in message > news:i8FOg.12365$JR5.10661@dukeread11... >> Troy wrote: >>> I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted >>> TJ, and had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get >>> some other stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was >>> watching/helping screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to >>> find the sweet spot all over again for my pinion angle. >>> >>> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it >>> last time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't >>> find where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do >>> it, but I'm not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort >>> I'm sure, but if anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can >>> measure my angles and get everything done perfectly I would be happy! >>> I'm tired of crawling under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate >>> to the yard, test driving, opening the gate again, crawling under, >>> etc etc etc. >> >> Simple angle finder with a magnetic base and a tape measure. >> http://www.vincihiperformance.com/vi...LE%20METER.jpg >> >> The trick is to get both upper links exactly the same length and keep the >> proper >> shaft angle while keeping the rear axle parallel to the front. You >> should be >> able to get close enough by measuring the links from center bolt to >> center bolt. >> >> -- >> DougW >> >> >> > > |
#6
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What tools do I need?
Major pain anyway.... ;-)
Figure how soft the suspension is and how much a full tank of gas and/or passengers lowers the suspension for your angle. Mine really doesn't like to run empty and door ant topless, it will vibrate on the highway. With a load like for camping or vacationing or in the winter with the hardtop and hard doors on it runs really smooth. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Troy wrote: > > Yeah, I have the cv driveshaft with a slipjoint. Recently rebuilt from a > previous problem so I'm miffed about having vibes again. So the pinion > should be pretty much straight in line with the driveshaft eh? I'll go > eyeball it one more time for today. > > I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for axle > wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get the angle > finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it but I gotta be > asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh. > > Ah and that "friend" heh heh, does owe me some beer now. He thinks he did > something major wrong to my baby, I haven't told him its a minor thing yet, > just letting him sweat it out for a day. > > Troy > > "Matt Macchiarolo" > wrote in message > . .. > > Remember that if you have a CV rear driveshaft with a slipjoint, the > > pinion should be at the same angle as the driveshaft. If you have the > > stock slipyoke (not recommended with a 4" lift) the pinion should be > > parallel with the output shaft. > > > > And that friend now owes you a 12-pack. > > > > "DougW" > wrote in message > > news:i8FOg.12365$JR5.10661@dukeread11... > >> Troy wrote: > >>> I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted > >>> TJ, and had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get > >>> some other stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was > >>> watching/helping screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to > >>> find the sweet spot all over again for my pinion angle. > >>> > >>> The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it > >>> last time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't > >>> find where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do > >>> it, but I'm not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort > >>> I'm sure, but if anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can > >>> measure my angles and get everything done perfectly I would be happy! > >>> I'm tired of crawling under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate > >>> to the yard, test driving, opening the gate again, crawling under, > >>> etc etc etc. > >> > >> Simple angle finder with a magnetic base and a tape measure. > >> http://www.vincihiperformance.com/vi...LE%20METER.jpg > >> > >> The trick is to get both upper links exactly the same length and keep the > >> proper > >> shaft angle while keeping the rear axle parallel to the front. You > >> should be > >> able to get close enough by measuring the links from center bolt to > >> center bolt. > >> > >> -- > >> DougW > >> > >> > >> > > > > |
#7
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What tools do I need?
Troy wrote:
> I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for > axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get > the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it > but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh. By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast. Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason) Anyhoo.. You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt. To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear, and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will get an off reading. The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5 degrees. As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5 high at the rear on a full tank. -- DougW |
#8
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What tools do I need?
DougW wrote:
> Troy wrote: > >> I read somewhere on a website about having it 1 degree lowered for >> axle wrap, but I'm sure I wont be able to judge a degree until I get >> the angle finder huh... I wish I had more time today to mess with it >> but I gotta be asleep by 7:30 to be up for work at 3am. ugh. > > By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf > springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your > getting axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast. > > Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within > reason) > Anyhoo.. > > You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo > on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt. > > To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks > ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to > the diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the > other ear, and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is > flat or you will get an off reading. Heh... I forgot.. This is hard to do without a frame/axle lift under the Jeep. You probably could get away with using just one of the ears, but taking an average of the two is more accurate. I've done it by moving the ZJ by hand. (not recommended) The garage door and tool box would keep the zj from running me over. Since it was in 4wheel N. O_o Play it safe and have someone (you trust) help you. > The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5 > degrees. > As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5 > high at the rear on a full tank. |
#9
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What tools do I need?
Show the wife this list:
Laser angle finder (to help align it) Hydraulic vehicle hoist (to safely suspend the Jeep) Giant air compressor (to tighten those bolts) Every socket and driver availible at sears (you just never know) Sawzall, Skillsaw, 40ton shop press, lathe, drill press, band saw, and a 220V Welder. ;-) Actually, a magnetized angle finder will get the job done. HTH, Carl "Troy" <@ .> wrote in message ... >I have recently put on an adjustable rear track bar on my 4" lifted TJ, and >had to take off my upper rear adjustable control arms to get some other >stuff adjusted. When they were off a friend who was watching/helping >screwed them all the way down so now I'm having to find the sweet spot all >over again for my pinion angle. > > The problem is, I just can't seem to find it anymore. I eyeballed it last > time and there was a slight shake at 65mph, but now I just can't find > where they need to be. So I'm gonna get the angle tools to do it, but I'm > not sure which kind I need. An angle finder of some sort I'm sure, but if > anyone out there can tell me what to go buy so I can measure my angles and > get everything done perfectly I would be happy! I'm tired of crawling > under, adjusting, crawling up, opening the gate to the yard, test driving, > opening the gate again, crawling under, etc etc etc. > > Troy > |
#10
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What tools do I need?
Hi Doug,
Thanks for adding the disclaimer: (within Reason) because there's no comparison with what we call a ladder bars: http://www.mspmall.com/raceline/part2.jpg and your suspension used on the boats of 1959: http://www.jims59.com/images/1029cRearDiffDone.jpg God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O http://www.billhughes.com/ DougW wrote: > > By the way, there is no axle wrap with link suspension, only with leaf > springs. That's why they make traction and ladder bars. If your getting > axle wrap with a link suspension then the bushings are toast. > > Once the angle is set, the four links maintain that angle. (within reason) > > Anyhoo.. > > You should start with a full tank of fuel and no cargo > on flat ground (concrete) not on grass/gravel/or dirt. > > To measure the angle you place the angle finder on the output yolks > ear. i.e. side closest to the transmission case and side closest to the > diff. You measure one ear, rotate the shaft 180, measure the other ear, > and take the difference. Make sure the bearing cap is flat or you will > get an off reading. > > The difference between front and rear should be no greater than 1.5 degrees. > > As for +1 offset, I dunno. My ZJ is bone stock and it reads about .5 > high at the rear on a full tank. > > -- > DougW |
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