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#11
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Well I took it apart and cleaned it and checked for dirty connections
on the MAF sensor and the cold air temp sensor. Idle has seemed to stop fluctuating, so that seems to be fixed....... for now. Check engine light is still coming on. Anyway that error code is a running code. A buddy of mine has an explorer with the same motor and a dead tranny and he said I could borrow his old MAF sensor and cold air temp sensor to see if that helps me out at all. Another backyard mechanic suggested that it might be the TPS but I don't think that I am comfortable attempting that one by myself. Again, I really do appreciate any and all help thus far and Jim I love your consumer is always right post, I am a technician myself and that is just too damn funny. Do you think that borrowing those sensors is a waste of time? Am I just being a jackass trying to save a couple of bucks replacing still working parts? Thanks Dan |
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#12
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Well I took it apart and cleaned it and checked for dirty connections
on the MAF sensor and the cold air temp sensor. Idle has seemed to stop fluctuating, so that seems to be fixed....... for now. Check engine light is still coming on. Anyway that error code is a running code. A buddy of mine has an explorer with the same motor and a dead tranny and he said I could borrow his old MAF sensor and cold air temp sensor to see if that helps me out at all. Another backyard mechanic suggested that it might be the TPS but I don't think that I am comfortable attempting that one by myself. Again, I really do appreciate any and all help thus far and Jim I love your consumer is always right post, I am a technician myself and that is just too damn funny. Do you think that borrowing those sensors is a waste of time? Am I just being a jackass trying to save a couple of bucks replacing still working parts? Thanks Dan |
#13
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If the sensors are known to be good and they are available for use, subbing
them is a viable choice..... Have you checked to be sure it is the same code coming back? How about the general state of tune? Fuel pressure regulator isn't leaking... that sort of stuff. "Dedge" > wrote in message oups.com... > Well I took it apart and cleaned it and checked for dirty connections > on the MAF sensor and the cold air temp sensor. Idle has seemed to > stop fluctuating, so that seems to be fixed....... for now. Check > engine light is still coming on. Anyway that error code is a running > code. A buddy of mine has an explorer with the same motor and a dead > tranny and he said I could borrow his old MAF sensor and cold air temp > sensor to see if that helps me out at all. Another backyard mechanic > suggested that it might be the TPS but I don't think that I am > comfortable attempting that one by myself. Again, I really do > appreciate any and all help thus far and Jim I love your consumer is > always right post, I am a technician myself and that is just too damn > funny. > > Do you think that borrowing those sensors is a waste of time? Am I > just being a jackass trying to save a couple of bucks replacing still > working parts? > > Thanks > Dan > |
#14
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Mostly it runs really really well. I have only had it for about 5
months and the people that I bought it from were very meticulous about taking general care about it. I changed the MAF sensor and that did not seem to help matters at all. As far as the fuel pressure regulator goes, how would I go about changing that? It doesn't appear to be leaking, but I am wonding if it isn't stuck open or something. Can I just pull the gas lines off of it and then the two bolts on the side, or is there something special I need to do to it because it is under pressure? As far as the codes, I believe it was checked a total of 3 times all with the same code....however it has not been back in since I changed the MAF sensor. Also I was checking the oil last night and I could smell fuel in the oil Big Time. Although I expected to be able to smell some, just not that strong. Dan |
#15
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You can have multiple issues. As I said, in my case, it was a MAF
sensor, and a brake switch....even though the indicator was codes indicating the TPS was wide open, and my torque converter wasn't locking up. Apparently, the brake switch is in the circuit for the transmission, and the MAF sensor was bad, giving me the other code. If you have a reader, the manual will have a listing of codes and what they mean. I'm still trying to work through how everything ties in, but I'm getting there. "Dedge" > wrote in message oups.com... | Mostly it runs really really well. I have only had it for about 5 | months and the people that I bought it from were very meticulous about | taking general care about it. I changed the MAF sensor and that did | not seem to help matters at all. As far as the fuel pressure regulator | goes, how would I go about changing that? It doesn't appear to be | leaking, but I am wonding if it isn't stuck open or something. Can I | just pull the gas lines off of it and then the two bolts on the side, | or is there something special I need to do to it because it is under | pressure? | | As far as the codes, I believe it was checked a total of 3 times all | with the same code....however it has not been back in since I changed | the MAF sensor. | | Also I was checking the oil last night and I could smell fuel in the | oil Big Time. Although I expected to be able to smell some, just not | that strong. | | Dan | |
#16
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You'll have to pull the vacuum line off the FPR and check to see if any fuel
is coming out of the nipple the hose plugs on to. The diaphragms in these regulators have been known to leak... Another concern might be chronically high fuel pressure. "Dedge" > wrote in message oups.com... > Mostly it runs really really well. I have only had it for about 5 > months and the people that I bought it from were very meticulous about > taking general care about it. I changed the MAF sensor and that did > not seem to help matters at all. As far as the fuel pressure regulator > goes, how would I go about changing that? It doesn't appear to be > leaking, but I am wonding if it isn't stuck open or something. Can I > just pull the gas lines off of it and then the two bolts on the side, > or is there something special I need to do to it because it is under > pressure? > > As far as the codes, I believe it was checked a total of 3 times all > with the same code....however it has not been back in since I changed > the MAF sensor. > > Also I was checking the oil last night and I could smell fuel in the > oil Big Time. Although I expected to be able to smell some, just not > that strong. > > Dan > |
#17
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I traced the vacuum line from the FPR to the vacuum distribution and it
was dry there. Didn't look corroded or anything like gas had been getting there. Do you still reccomend that I look at the vacuum line where it attaches to the fpr? How can I tell if it has chronically high fuel pressure? Dan |
#18
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Yes, you should carefully inspect the line and nipple at the top of the fuel
pressure regulator...... turn the key to the run position while the line is off to pressure up the fuel rail. A fuel pressure guage that reads to 100 psi is required to check fuel pressure. "Dedge" > wrote in message ups.com... > I traced the vacuum line from the FPR to the vacuum distribution and it > was dry there. Didn't look corroded or anything like gas had been > getting there. Do you still reccomend that I look at the vacuum line > where it attaches to the fpr? > How can I tell if it has chronically high fuel pressure? > > > Dan > |
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