98 voyager 3.0l tensioner replacement

I have replaced the serpentine belt 4 times in the last 2 years, once
outside at -25. I have just bought a new belt tensioner, and the haynes
manual shows a drawing of it but that'a all. On the internet there are
loads of procedures on the replacement for the 3.3 or the 3.8 engine's
tensioner, but I have not found anything for the 3.0L . The chilton
manual I found just shows the belt configuration. The mechanic at the
local fixit place will change it for $55. labour, if I buy the part
from him for 3 times the price of the part (auto parts store sells for
$70. he wants $185.)
I rebuilt my 89 Saab and found more info about that than I found about
this minivan, Saab people are kind of proud of the tricks they have
learned and really love to tell the world.
Anyway any one know the simple way to remove that tensioner, do I need
the 15mm or 14mm long socket,
Thanks for any advice


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On Jul 5, 2:39 pm, srp204 > wrote:
> I have replaced the serpentine belt 4 times in the last 2 years, once
> outside at -25. I have just bought a new belt tensioner, and the haynes
> manual shows a drawing of it but that'a all. On the internet there are
> loads of procedures on the replacement for the 3.3 or the 3.8 engine's
> tensioner, but I have not found anything for the 3.0L . The chilton
> manual I found just shows the belt configuration. The mechanic at the
> local fixit place will change it for $55. labour, if I buy the part
> from him for 3 times the price of the part (auto parts store sells for
> $70. he wants $185.)
> I rebuilt my 89 Saab and found more info about that than I found about
> this minivan, Saab people are kind of proud of the tricks they have
> learned and really love to tell the world.
> Anyway any one know the simple way to remove that tensioner, do I need
> the 15mm or 14mm long socket,
> Thanks for any advice
>
> --
> srp204
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> srp204's Profile:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...?userid=521544
> View this thread:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=723728
>
> http://www.automotiveforums.com

The most painless way for dealing with these problems is to get
Factory Service Manual (FSM) -- if you do no tlike the idea of
shelling out $100+ for the FSM then you can get a one day access to
the FSM (and print out whatever portions of it you'd like) at

www.techauthority.com

The cost is $20 for 1 day access to any Chrysler FSM (covers the past
15+ model years).

Thanks,

Alex

the wiper cowl has 2 drains on the bottom one on each side and one on the right is
right above the acc. belt and if it is off water will pour right on the belts and they
will fling off

srp204 wrote:

> I have replaced the serpentine belt 4 times in the last 2 years, once
> outside at -25. I have just bought a new belt tensioner, and the haynes
> manual shows a drawing of it but that'a all. On the internet there are
> loads of procedures on the replacement for the 3.3 or the 3.8 engine's
> tensioner, but I have not found anything for the 3.0L . The chilton
> manual I found just shows the belt configuration. The mechanic at the
> local fixit place will change it for $55. labour, if I buy the part
> from him for 3 times the price of the part (auto parts store sells for
> $70. he wants $185.)
> I rebuilt my 89 Saab and found more info about that than I found about
> this minivan, Saab people are kind of proud of the tricks they have
> learned and really love to tell the world.
> Anyway any one know the simple way to remove that tensioner, do I need
> the 15mm or 14mm long socket,
> Thanks for any advice
>
> --
> srp204
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> srp204's Profile: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...?userid=521544
> View this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=723728
>
> http://www.automotiveforums.com

On Jul 5, 1:39 pm, srp204 > wrote:
> I have replaced the serpentine belt 4 times in the last 2 years, once
> outside at -25. I have just bought a new belt tensioner, and the haynes
> manual shows a drawing of it but that'a all. On the internet there are
> loads of procedures on the replacement for the 3.3 or the 3.8 engine's
> tensioner, but I have not found anything for the 3.0L . The chilton
> manual I found just shows the belt configuration. The mechanic at the
> local fixit place will change it for $55. labour, if I buy the part
> from him for 3 times the price of the part (auto parts store sells for
> $70. he wants $185.)
> I rebuilt my 89 Saab and found more info about that than I found about
> this minivan, Saab people are kind of proud of the tricks they have
> learned and really love to tell the world.
> Anyway any one know the simple way to remove that tensioner, do I need
> the 15mm or 14mm long socket,
> Thanks for any advice
>
> --
> srp204
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> srp204's Profile:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...?userid=521544
> View this thread:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=723728
>
> http://www.automotiveforums.com

I've recently replaced the heads (and water pump, radiator, timing
belt, serpentine belt, alternator, plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, etc
as I was in there anyway) on the 3.0L V6, this one being in a 93
Plymouth Sundance Duster - yes, that little car with the 3.0L V6 runs
like a rocket. The work included removing and reinstalling the
serpentine belt tensioner. Also have had a couple of minivans with the
same engine, but none since the early to mid 90's, so I can't testify
to the relevance to your engine of the information I am providing.
Here it is anyway...

After reading your post, I checked my old Chilton manual for the
minivans and was surprised by the lack of information, detail and
drawings. If your 98 uses the same Mitsubishi 3.0L V6, as the earlier
minivans, try the Haynes manual for the Dodge Shadow/Plymouth
Sundance & Duster, manual no 30055. Chapter 2 is the engine overhaul
in 3 sub-chapters - 2A is the 4 cyl overhaul, 2B the Mitsubishi 3.0L
V6 overhaul, 2C the general engine over haul info. Illustration 10.6c
on page 2B-11 is an excellent exploded view of the brackets & pullleys
that bolt onto the engine - lots of greasy fingerprints on mine,
refered to it a lot. Section 10 in chapter 2B is the timing belt
removal and replacement which includes removing the serpentine belt
and tensioner. The procedure is to jack up the front passenger side,
remove the wheel and the splash guards so you can get to everything,
remove the serpentine drive belt. The tensioner pulley is mounted on
the housing of what the manual calls the tensioner assembly. Removing
the nut in the middle of the pulley only removes the pulley. The
tensioner assembly is mounted on the alternator bracket with one bolt
that sticks thru the bracket to the rear (defining the front of the
engine as where the pulleys are, so the front of the engine is to the
passenger side of the car), so you have to reach around behind the
alternator bracket to get to the nut (around where the #1 spark plug
is). When I did this, the alternator and air cleaner housing were
already off; I don't know if you can do this without removing the
alternator, but the air cleaner housing I think definitely has to go.
Since you already have the serpentine belt off, removing the
alternator is a breeze anyway - 2 mounting bolts and 5 nuts for the
wiring harness in the Duster.

It's been a couple of months since I did this. I remember lots of
frustration involving the front engine mounting plate, power steering
pump, and timing belt covers, in particuler what went where first, but
I think the tensioner assembly was pretty easy. However, everything
done the first time seems to be a challenge.

I could possibly scan & email the diagrams from my book if it would
help. Not as good as the FSM's another responder suggested, but far
cheaper. The Duster is running great - did it for & with my son, and
am envious of the fun he is having.

Good luck

Hi there, Im now doing replacement of the timing belt tensioner for my
98 voyager 3.0l, the removal of the belt and alternator is not so hard,
and seems to have a small and tight access to the tensioner nut at the
back of the bracket from the top side, I think it would be easier to
handle than from the bottom. The only thing i can't find the way is
that i couldn't find any socket to fit that nut to loose the tensioner,
i tried 15mm, 16mm,17mm, 9/16'',5/8" and 11/16", both 11/16" and 17mm
sockets are too big, the others are too small? Anyone has an idea what
tool or bit to use in this case would be helpful, thank you all.


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