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#1
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Need a second opinion...
Hi folks,
I recently installed a new intake manifold (1500 sp, Brazilian) after I gave up trying to clear the heat riser pipes on the original. Long story short, engine is back in car and now I find that I can't get the stock air cleaner back on as the carb top is slightly too close to the fan housing (by about 5-6mm). Its been suggested to me that I might be able to bend it back some using a steel pipe down the throat of the manifold and some carefully applied pressure. I'd really like a second opinion on this before I risk doing some damage - am I likely to get away with it? Do I risk breaking the manifold to head studs? Manifold is bolted down to both heads and exhaust. Thanks! |
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#2
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Need a second opinion...
Dangermouse kirjoitti:
> Hi folks, > > I recently installed a new intake manifold (1500 sp, Brazilian) after I > gave up trying to clear the heat riser pipes on the original. Long > story short, engine is back in car and now I find that I can't get > the stock air cleaner back on as the carb top is slightly too close to > the fan housing (by about 5-6mm). Its been suggested to me that I might > be able to bend it back some using a steel pipe down the throat of the > manifold and some carefully applied pressure. I'd really like a > second opinion on this before I risk doing some damage - am I likely > to get away with it? Do I risk breaking the manifold to head studs? > Manifold is bolted down to both heads and exhaust. > > Thanks! > Don't do it. You are correct, the head studs can't take it. Also the aluminum casting will crack. Unfortunately, I don't have a suggestion for fixing your problem. Jan |
#3
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Need a second opinion...
Dangermouse wrote:
> Hi folks, > > I recently installed a new intake manifold (1500 sp, Brazilian) after I > gave up trying to clear the heat riser pipes on the original. Long > story short, engine is back in car and now I find that I can't get > the stock air cleaner back on as the carb top is slightly too close to > the fan housing (by about 5-6mm). Its been suggested to me that I might > be able to bend it back some using a steel pipe down the throat of the > manifold and some carefully applied pressure. I'd really like a > second opinion on this before I risk doing some damage - am I likely > to get away with it? Do I risk breaking the manifold to head studs? > Manifold is bolted down to both heads and exhaust. > > Thanks! > I guess I wouldn't risk doing this in the car, but clamp the manifold and heat the riser with torch to near-red. Then use the pipe-down-the-throat to nudge it a bit. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
#4
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Need a second opinion...
Thanks guys, suspected as much - I stand dissuaded.
What an incredible PITA though! I snapped off a 6mm steel cable inside my original manifold trying to ream the bugger out and then when I fit a new, clear one, the air cleaner won't fit back on but of course I only realise this after the engine's reinstalled. Its just not FAIR!!! The engine runs waaay better with clear heat risers too (I can actually fit the stock air-cleaner back on but backwards because of the offset but it brings me out in a rash just looking at it and I can't connect the air pre-heat hose or the oil breather hose). This is just so frustrating, this should be the easy bit! My options now are, I guess, remove manifold and take it somewhere for alignment (I don't have access to appropriate tools myself). Or, try and find an original, German manifold with clear(ed) heat risers (prectically impossible it seems). Or, have my first manifold cut, cleared and rewelded (yuck!). Or, find another, German, manifold and try again to clear the heat risers (double yuck!!). Someone should be recycling and selling these - I would pay quite a bit for one. |
#5
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Need a second opinion...
Dangermouse wrote:
> Thanks guys, suspected as much - I stand dissuaded. > > What an incredible PITA though! I snapped off a 6mm steel cable inside > my original manifold trying to ream the bugger out and then when I fit > a new, clear one, the air cleaner won't fit back on but of course I > only realise this after the engine's reinstalled. Its just not FAIR!!! PLAN "B" Make a "custom" gasket between the carb base and manifold riser flange. This gasket will have a slightly tapered profile such that it "tilts" the carb back at a comfortable angle :-) I think one could do it in an evening with nothing more than a big ass rasp. Jim |
#6
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Need a second opinion...
> PLAN "B" > > Make a "custom" gasket between the carb base and manifold > riser flange. This gasket will have a slightly tapered > profile such that it "tilts" the carb back at a comfortable angle :-) > > I think one could do it in an evening with nothing > more than a big ass rasp. Hmmmmmm... What effect might an even slightly tilted carb have on the level of fuel in the float chamber or indeed oil in the aircleaner? Or are you meaning more of an 'offset' type of gasket; does such a thing exist? What could one use as a starting point to fabricate one? |
#7
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Need a second opinion...
Dangermouse wrote: > > PLAN "B" > > > > Make a "custom" gasket between the carb base and manifold > > riser flange. This gasket will have a slightly tapered > > profile such that it "tilts" the carb back at a comfortable angle :-) > > > > I think one could do it in an evening with nothing > > more than a big ass rasp. > > > Hmmmmmm... > > What effect might an even slightly tilted carb have on the level of > fuel in the float chamber or indeed oil in the aircleaner? Or are you > meaning more of an 'offset' type of gasket; does such a thing exist? > What could one use as a starting point to fabricate one? Plan C. Get a different air cleaner. Randy |
#8
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Need a second opinion...
Randy wrote:
> > Plan C. > Get a different air cleaner. > > Randy > Hmmmph!@ Killjoy :-) |
#9
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Need a second opinion...
Speedy Jim kirjoitti:
> Dangermouse wrote: > >> Thanks guys, suspected as much - I stand dissuaded. >> >> What an incredible PITA though! I snapped off a 6mm steel cable inside >> my original manifold trying to ream the bugger out and then when I fit >> a new, clear one, the air cleaner won't fit back on but of course I >> only realise this after the engine's reinstalled. Its just not FAIR!!! > > > PLAN "B" > > Make a "custom" gasket between the carb base and manifold > riser flange. This gasket will have a slightly tapered > profile such that it "tilts" the carb back at a comfortable angle :-) > > I think one could do it in an evening with nothing > more than a big ass rasp. > > Jim and the carb would then sit at a weird angle and not work properly because the fuel level would be weird to say the least? Maybe I'm just paranoid, they do work when driving uphill.... lol |
#10
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Need a second opinion...
Jan wrote:
> Speedy Jim kirjoitti: > >> Dangermouse wrote: >> >>> Thanks guys, suspected as much - I stand dissuaded. >>> >>> What an incredible PITA though! I snapped off a 6mm steel cable inside >>> my original manifold trying to ream the bugger out and then when I fit >>> a new, clear one, the air cleaner won't fit back on but of course I >>> only realise this after the engine's reinstalled. Its just not FAIR!!! >> >> >> >> PLAN "B" >> >> Make a "custom" gasket between the carb base and manifold >> riser flange. This gasket will have a slightly tapered >> profile such that it "tilts" the carb back at a comfortable angle :-) >> >> I think one could do it in an evening with nothing >> more than a big ass rasp. >> >> Jim > > > > and the carb would then sit at a weird angle and not work properly > because the fuel level would be weird to say the least? > > Maybe I'm just paranoid, they do work when driving uphill.... lol They do work because the level doesn't tilt very much and the "average" height remains roughly the same. I don't think the tilting gasket will have to alter the carb angle by very much. Jim |
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