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C4 Numerous Problems :(



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 14th 06, 05:57 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
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Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

I haven't drove my car in two years. 1988 Convertable Auto.

I cold stored it over one winter and when I went to take it out there was
tranny fluid everywhere! I had it towed to a shop and they charged me $900.
to replace a 'transmission seal kit'. The guy assured me I wouldn't have to
worry about losing a drop of fluid again. 1 month later I noticed the car
slipping. Again, fluid leaking only not so noticeable. Towed to same
garage. He said he had one side fixed for $240 and the other side would
take another $240. I reminded him that he said I wouldn't have to worry
about fluid again and he said that these were different seals? Anyways I
never gave him permission to do any work so I paid the $240 and told him to
button it up. It's sat on my parking pad ever since.

Anyone know how many seals in a transmission? Was I being taken for a ride?
I now have to take it to a real transmission shop and get a price on doing
the whole job over again. They quoted me $600. with a lifetime guarentee.
I just started it up this evening and I can't wait to enjoy it this year!

Problem 1: My dash pulsates? I think it might be the altinator of the
battery? The battey loses charge over several days of not driving but
charges and drives fine.

Problem 2: Sometimes hard to start. I read on this forum some time ago that
it might be a couple of sensors in the intake plenum? The symptoms were the
same as the guy in the post. I thought at first it was the injectors
leaking or the fuel rail. Sometimes you have to crank and crank and you
smell fuel. Holding the pedal to the floor helps like clearing a flood.
You can also take 'screens' off that are in front of these sensors? If you
wait for the car to get cold again it flashes right up? Any ideas on this
would be appreciated.

Problem 3: Noisy catalytic converter. I grounded teh car on time on a dip
in the road (*bad*) Since then I hear a rattle. i had it checked and the
guy said something wa sloose inside the cat and the only way to fix it was
to replace it. It rattles on startup and is embaressing. Especially
combined with problem #2 I have Dyna Max Performance exhaust and teh
muffler gusy say they can replece the CAT with a straight piece of stainless
pipe. My question is:
If I remove the CAT is the car still driveable? Someone told me it would
run like crap and I would have to get a the chip replaced so it can run
without it? Does this make sence?

Problem 4: Oil leak. Rear main seal is leaking. I assume this will be a
straight forward job for the tranny ship since the have the transmission
dropped anyway?

Other than that the car is a cream puff with only 45K on it. These problems
only came up the last couple months of driving..

Any suggestions on any of the above would be greatly appreciated!! * Save
The Wave*


Ads
  #2  
Old April 14th 06, 08:48 PM posted to alt.autos.corvette
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Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

#0: The common oil leaks on an automatic are the pan gasket and the
rear seal. The "one side, then the other side" diagnosis is suspect.
I'd recommend a new mechanic.

#1: Sounds like the alternator. A battery problem wouldn't cause a
regular pulsation in voltage. Check the system voltage with a volt
meter to rule out a connection problem in the dashboard. Also, get a
Battery Tender.

#3: Your muffler guy could get into a lot of trouble for replacing the
catalytic converter with a straight pipe. It might run okay, but why
bother? A performance aftermarket cat is around $100. I had a Grand
Cherokee where the element came loose in the catalytic converter and
rattled like that. 100k miles didn't hurt anything, but it was
embarassing. Worse case, the element breaks up and plugs the muffler.

#4: With the transmission removed changing the rear main seal is easy.
Six bolts to remove the flex plate and the one-piece seal in that year
engine slips right out. No need to remove the oil pan (although it
probably leaks too).


-rev

  #3  
Old April 16th 06, 01:18 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
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Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

1. It's probably the battery. The lights probably pulsate with the
engine RPM because the electrical system is running only on the
alternator (the battery is not providing any storage). You can tell if
the alternator is defective by starting the engine and then
disconnecting the battery cable. If it dies when you pull off the
cable then it the alternator. Don't re-connect the cable with the
engine running as you can damage the computer or alternator.

2. This could be anything from a vacuum leak to sensor trouble.

3. Replace the converter. Don't go with a straight pipe, it could
irreparably harm your emission system & cause carbon build-up in the
intake/exhaust system.

4. Replace the rear main, front seal, and pan gasket when the trans is
off the car. If you plan on keeping the car, it would also be a good
time to replace the oil pump with a high volume pump if you live in a
warm climate. If you live in a cold climate, be careful not to run
heavy oil in the winter as you risk having all the oil in the top of
the engine when you start the car on a cold day. If you got the trans
off the car for front & real seals (or rebuild), you could also
step-up to a B & M performance torque converter.


==============================================
On Fri, 14 Apr 2006 04:57:15 GMT, "88C4RagTop" >
wrote:

>Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
>
>I haven't drove my car in two years. 1988 Convertable Auto.
>
>I cold stored it over one winter and when I went to take it out there was
>tranny fluid everywhere! I had it towed to a shop and they charged me $900.
>to replace a 'transmission seal kit'. The guy assured me I wouldn't have to
>worry about losing a drop of fluid again. 1 month later I noticed the car
>slipping. Again, fluid leaking only not so noticeable. Towed to same
>garage. He said he had one side fixed for $240 and the other side would
>take another $240. I reminded him that he said I wouldn't have to worry
>about fluid again and he said that these were different seals? Anyways I
>never gave him permission to do any work so I paid the $240 and told him to
>button it up. It's sat on my parking pad ever since.
>
>Anyone know how many seals in a transmission? Was I being taken for a ride?
>I now have to take it to a real transmission shop and get a price on doing
>the whole job over again. They quoted me $600. with a lifetime guarentee.
>I just started it up this evening and I can't wait to enjoy it this year!
>
>Problem 1: My dash pulsates? I think it might be the altinator of the
>battery? The battey loses charge over several days of not driving but
>charges and drives fine.
>
>Problem 2: Sometimes hard to start. I read on this forum some time ago that
>it might be a couple of sensors in the intake plenum? The symptoms were the
>same as the guy in the post. I thought at first it was the injectors
>leaking or the fuel rail. Sometimes you have to crank and crank and you
>smell fuel. Holding the pedal to the floor helps like clearing a flood.
>You can also take 'screens' off that are in front of these sensors? If you
>wait for the car to get cold again it flashes right up? Any ideas on this
>would be appreciated.
>
>Problem 3: Noisy catalytic converter. I grounded teh car on time on a dip
>in the road (*bad*) Since then I hear a rattle. i had it checked and the
>guy said something wa sloose inside the cat and the only way to fix it was
>to replace it. It rattles on startup and is embaressing. Especially
>combined with problem #2 I have Dyna Max Performance exhaust and teh
>muffler gusy say they can replece the CAT with a straight piece of stainless
>pipe. My question is:
>If I remove the CAT is the car still driveable? Someone told me it would
>run like crap and I would have to get a the chip replaced so it can run
>without it? Does this make sence?
>
>Problem 4: Oil leak. Rear main seal is leaking. I assume this will be a
>straight forward job for the tranny ship since the have the transmission
>dropped anyway?
>
>Other than that the car is a cream puff with only 45K on it. These problems
>only came up the last couple months of driving..
>
>Any suggestions on any of the above would be greatly appreciated!! * Save
>The Wave*
>

  #4  
Old April 17th 06, 03:34 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

88C4RagTop wrote:
> Thanks everyone for the replies.
>
> I changed out my battery. (Tried to get an AGM or GEL battery but the
> Orbital & Optima ones won't fit without mods).
>
> I ended up getting a regular one. Just before I swapped the battery the
> battery icon became illuminated on the dash. I'm taking the altenator off
> tonight and having it bench rested on the way home from work tomorrow. Is
> there a particular brand or output I should be looking for when getting a
> replacement? Partsource priced out at $150 cdn for a rebuilt Champion (105
> amp) or NAPA has a unknown brand rebuilt for $140. cdn for 105 amp. Should I
> get one woth more output?


Unless you are running extreme audio plus 100w headlamps plus high
wattage driving lights, the stock alternator will do the job. Biggest
C4 alternator problem is frequent failure of the internal regulator due
to idling around town between 20 and 40 mph in the summer with the A/C
on. Last alternator I bought was an Autolite rebuild of an OE
(AC-Delco) unit. Looks stock. Has outlasted all prior alternators. It
was about $ 85US. This brand had a 'lifetime' warranty--it really
means, 'two alternators for the price of one.'

>
> Newbie2: I'm a semi-noob and I didn't kow there was susch a thing as a
> torque converter upgrade. I take it this would be an easy thing for the
> tranny shop to do if the transmission is out anyway? These look a little
> pricey.. I see several 2400 for around $100 usd. re-man 'borg' brand is one
> on there. I will look into it further.. thanx!
>
> So nobody has heard of these sensors in the intake plenum that can cause
> intermittent hard starting?


You might check and see if your '88 has a pair of relays -- MAF burn-off
and MAF power (these were an in-service addition to early Bosch Fuel
Injection) On the '89 they are located on the firewall just aft of the
brake cylinder. Early relays were square, newer replacements are round.
The 'burn-off' relay's job is to superheat the MAF sensor wire during
shut down to clean it of 'uglies' that make it through or past the air
cleaner. If it isn't working well, the MAF sensor will accumulate
residue and send bad signals to the ECM. This can contribute to some
lag. The Idle Air Control (IAC) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) also
affect low-rpm stability.

>
> Thanx again
>
>
>

--
PJ
'89 Hookercar '02 e-blu coupe
  #5  
Old April 17th 06, 06:01 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

Thanx PJ. You guys really know your stuff. I appreciate you sharing your
knowledge. The MAF relays are exactly what I had heard about. I remember
the guy was having the exact same issue as me. He had addressed the other
possibilities and was still stumped. Someone in the group suggested
changing these out. I don't know how it turned out but i'll give it a try.

I don't have any heavy extra equipment on the car so the stock altenator one
will do just fine.

I'll go with replacing the CAT instead of bypassing it and look into a
torque converter. As well as the MAF sensors, all thanks to you good folks'
advise.

How big a job is the oil pressure sensor? Mine shows a constant 550 which I
assume means the sensor needs to be checked/replaced?

88C4RagTop


"PJ" > wrote in message ...
> 88C4RagTop wrote:
>> Thanks everyone for the replies.
>>
>> I changed out my battery. (Tried to get an AGM or GEL battery but the
>> Orbital & Optima ones won't fit without mods).
>>
>> I ended up getting a regular one. Just before I swapped the battery the
>> battery icon became illuminated on the dash. I'm taking the altenator
>> off tonight and having it bench rested on the way home from work
>> tomorrow. Is there a particular brand or output I should be looking for
>> when getting a replacement? Partsource priced out at $150 cdn for a
>> rebuilt Champion (105 amp) or NAPA has a unknown brand rebuilt for $140.
>> cdn for 105 amp. Should I get one woth more output?

>
> Unless you are running extreme audio plus 100w headlamps plus high wattage
> driving lights, the stock alternator will do the job. Biggest C4
> alternator problem is frequent failure of the internal regulator due to
> idling around town between 20 and 40 mph in the summer with the A/C on.
> Last alternator I bought was an Autolite rebuild of an OE (AC-Delco) unit.
> Looks stock. Has outlasted all prior alternators. It was about $ 85US.
> This brand had a 'lifetime' warranty--it really means, 'two alternators
> for the price of one.'
>
>>
>> Newbie2: I'm a semi-noob and I didn't kow there was susch a thing as a
>> torque converter upgrade. I take it this would be an easy thing for the
>> tranny shop to do if the transmission is out anyway? These look a little
>> pricey.. I see several 2400 for around $100 usd. re-man 'borg' brand is
>> one on there. I will look into it further.. thanx!
>>
>> So nobody has heard of these sensors in the intake plenum that can cause
>> intermittent hard starting?

>
> You might check and see if your '88 has a pair of relays -- MAF burn-off
> and MAF power (these were an in-service addition to early Bosch Fuel
> Injection) On the '89 they are located on the firewall just aft of the
> brake cylinder. Early relays were square, newer replacements are round.
> The 'burn-off' relay's job is to superheat the MAF sensor wire during shut
> down to clean it of 'uglies' that make it through or past the air cleaner.
> If it isn't working well, the MAF sensor will accumulate residue and send
> bad signals to the ECM. This can contribute to some lag. The Idle Air
> Control (IAC) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) also affect low-rpm
> stability.
>
>>
>> Thanx again
>>
>>
>>

> --
> PJ
> '89 Hookercar '02 e-blu coupe



  #6  
Old April 17th 06, 06:11 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

Thanx Reverend,

I think you misunderstood a little. The oil leak is a minor issue but I
gave this shop money twice to fix transmission leaks. Does the left
side/right thing make sence regarding the transmission seals? It used to go
completely dry during storage but since my last visit when he fixed only one
side it only goes down a couple of liters (about 1/2 gallon)

The guy at the parts place told me there is 8 or 9 gallons of transmission
fluid in the system at one time and that he lists over 15 seals for the
tranny?

The reason I'm curious is that I think the last time the mechanic didn't
pull the tranny and had something to do with the side axles?? He doesn't
work there anymore and the workorder is vague. I'm thinking if I paid for
seals that the tranny had to be pulled for perhaps I just need a seal on the
other side?? Then again, I do have to get the oil leaks tended to...

I'm just so fed up with spending money trying to stop fluid from leaking out
that I'm going to take it to a shop and say here, I want nothing leaking
out.. send me a bill *be gentle*

"The Reverend Natural Light" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> #0: The common oil leaks on an automatic are the pan gasket and the
> rear seal. The "one side, then the other side" diagnosis is suspect.
> I'd recommend a new mechanic.
>
> #1: Sounds like the alternator. A battery problem wouldn't cause a
> regular pulsation in voltage. Check the system voltage with a volt
> meter to rule out a connection problem in the dashboard. Also, get a
> Battery Tender.
>
> #3: Your muffler guy could get into a lot of trouble for replacing the
> catalytic converter with a straight pipe. It might run okay, but why
> bother? A performance aftermarket cat is around $100. I had a Grand
> Cherokee where the element came loose in the catalytic converter and
> rattled like that. 100k miles didn't hurt anything, but it was
> embarassing. Worse case, the element breaks up and plugs the muffler.
>
> #4: With the transmission removed changing the rear main seal is easy.
> Six bolts to remove the flex plate and the one-piece seal in that year
> engine slips right out. No need to remove the oil pan (although it
> probably leaks too).
>
>
> -rev
>



  #7  
Old April 20th 06, 11:10 PM posted to alt.autos.corvette
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

When you let it sit the seals dry out...reseal the tranny should have been
about $300...YES YES the Vette runs great without the cat..you can buy a
test pipe stainless for about $40 on ebay..not legal for street use so when
you put it on only drive off road..( whatever that is )......or look up
google for exhaust test pipe or some thing like that . I sold one last year
on ebay for $35.00...direct cat replacement. Makes those aftermarket
mufflers sound really mean. I live in Florida we have no car inspections
here of any kind whatsoever.Redneck heaven..!!

  #8  
Old April 21st 06, 02:15 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

Self-described "xpert" Peter Daly<grayfox24ATearthlinkDOTnet> wrote:
> I live in Florida
> Redneck heaven..!!


That explains why you live there Peter! You recently said you were
leaving this newsgroup (hopefully never to return) so why are you here?
I guess we must now add "liar" to your dossier of primarily negative
attributes.

  #9  
Old April 23rd 06, 12:51 AM posted to alt.autos.corvette
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default C4 Numerous Problems :(

When I had the same sound in my '86 cat converter and was unsure whether
or not to change it, my vette mechanic gutted the insides and left the
converter on. It's just like having a straight pipe (almost) with no
problems since. Passed inspection also in NY.
"88C4RagTop" > wrote in message
news:miF0g.31225$P01.3348@pd7tw3no...
> Thanx PJ. You guys really know your stuff. I appreciate you sharing your
> knowledge. The MAF relays are exactly what I had heard about. I
> remember the guy was having the exact same issue as me. He had addressed
> the other possibilities and was still stumped. Someone in the group
> suggested changing these out. I don't know how it turned out but i'll
> give it a try.
>
> I don't have any heavy extra equipment on the car so the stock altenator
> one will do just fine.
>
> I'll go with replacing the CAT instead of bypassing it and look into a
> torque converter. As well as the MAF sensors, all thanks to you good
> folks' advise.
>
> How big a job is the oil pressure sensor? Mine shows a constant 550 which
> I assume means the sensor needs to be checked/replaced?
>
> 88C4RagTop
>
>
> "PJ" > wrote in message
> ...
>> 88C4RagTop wrote:
>>> Thanks everyone for the replies.
>>>
>>> I changed out my battery. (Tried to get an AGM or GEL battery but the
>>> Orbital & Optima ones won't fit without mods).
>>>
>>> I ended up getting a regular one. Just before I swapped the battery the
>>> battery icon became illuminated on the dash. I'm taking the altenator
>>> off tonight and having it bench rested on the way home from work
>>> tomorrow. Is there a particular brand or output I should be looking for
>>> when getting a replacement? Partsource priced out at $150 cdn for a
>>> rebuilt Champion (105 amp) or NAPA has a unknown brand rebuilt for $140.
>>> cdn for 105 amp. Should I get one woth more output?

>>
>> Unless you are running extreme audio plus 100w headlamps plus high
>> wattage driving lights, the stock alternator will do the job. Biggest C4
>> alternator problem is frequent failure of the internal regulator due to
>> idling around town between 20 and 40 mph in the summer with the A/C on.
>> Last alternator I bought was an Autolite rebuild of an OE (AC-Delco)
>> unit. Looks stock. Has outlasted all prior alternators. It was about $
>> 85US. This brand had a 'lifetime' warranty--it really means, 'two
>> alternators for the price of one.'
>>
>>>
>>> Newbie2: I'm a semi-noob and I didn't kow there was susch a thing as a
>>> torque converter upgrade. I take it this would be an easy thing for the
>>> tranny shop to do if the transmission is out anyway? These look a
>>> little pricey.. I see several 2400 for around $100 usd. re-man 'borg'
>>> brand is one on there. I will look into it further.. thanx!
>>>
>>> So nobody has heard of these sensors in the intake plenum that can cause
>>> intermittent hard starting?

>>
>> You might check and see if your '88 has a pair of relays -- MAF burn-off
>> and MAF power (these were an in-service addition to early Bosch Fuel
>> Injection) On the '89 they are located on the firewall just aft of the
>> brake cylinder. Early relays were square, newer replacements are round.
>> The 'burn-off' relay's job is to superheat the MAF sensor wire during
>> shut down to clean it of 'uglies' that make it through or past the air
>> cleaner. If it isn't working well, the MAF sensor will accumulate residue
>> and send bad signals to the ECM. This can contribute to some lag. The
>> Idle Air Control (IAC) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) also affect
>> low-rpm stability.
>>
>>>
>>> Thanx again
>>>
>>>
>>>

>> --
>> PJ
>> '89 Hookercar '02 e-blu coupe

>
>



 




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