brake questions

Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty pressing the
rear brake pistons back.

The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons. They have
a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise using a larger
screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to depress. I had to do this
on both sides.

I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two phillips
screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the phillips head.

The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them. But
I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to remove the
rotor.

Any advice appreciated. The brakes are working OK.

Thanks

1999 Accord EX 4 cyl
4 wheel disc brakes
118000 miles

"newman" > wrote in
news:4JI4j.389$md.113@trnddc06:

> Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty
> pressing the rear brake pistons back.
>
> The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons.
> They have a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise
> using a larger screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to
> depress. I had to do this on both sides.



Congratulations to you for not simply squishing them in with a C-clamp.
What you did was the right thing to do.



>
> I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two
> phillips screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the
> phillips head.



They kinda get stuck, yeah.



>
> The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them.
> But I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to
> remove the rotor.
>



Drill the screws out. But it might take more than that to get the rotors to
let go... Ask here for more...


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

On Dec 2, 10:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> "newman" > wrote innews:4JI4j.389$md.113@trnddc06:
>
> > Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty
> > pressing the rear brake pistons back.
>
> > The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons.
> > They have a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise
> > using a larger screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to
> > depress. I had to do this on both sides.
>
> Congratulations to you for not simply squishing them in with a C-clamp.
> What you did was the right thing to do.
>
>
>
> > I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two
> > phillips screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the
> > phillips head.
>
> They kinda get stuck, yeah.
>
>
>
> > The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them.
> > But I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to
> > remove the rotor.
>
> Drill the screws out. But it might take more than that to get the rotors to
> let go... Ask here for more...
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as
a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them).
HTH
JerryR

The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the
two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.

The front pads (Wagner) have been on car since 55000+ miles (now have
118000). They still have some good pad left.
> wrote in message
...
On Dec 2, 10:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
> "newman" > wrote innews:4JI4j.389$md.113@trnddc06:
>
> > Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty
> > pressing the rear brake pistons back.
>
> > The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons.
> > They have a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise
> > using a larger screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to
> > depress. I had to do this on both sides.
>
> Congratulations to you for not simply squishing them in with a C-clamp.
> What you did was the right thing to do.
>
>
>
> > I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two
> > phillips screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the
> > phillips head.
>
> They kinda get stuck, yeah.
>
>
>
> > The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them.
> > But I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to
> > remove the rotor.
>
> Drill the screws out. But it might take more than that to get the rotors
> to
> let go... Ask here for more...
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/

In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as
a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them).
HTH
JerryR

newman wrote:
> The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the
> two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
> rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.

I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to
stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.

Al wrote:
> newman wrote:
>> The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to
>> replace the two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber
>> hammer to coax rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.
>
> I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to
> stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.
-------------------------

Them Japs . . . Waste, waste, waste. They're a disgrace to the auto
industry the way they throw spare parts in that aren't even needed.

:-)

newman wrote:
> The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the
> two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
> rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.

loosen the wheel studs to finger tight, then drive around the block and
brake hard a couple of times. loosens up screws, disks, the works.


>
> The front pads (Wagner) have been on car since 55000+ miles (now have
> 118000). They still have some good pad left.

use honda pads next time. less dust, less fade, more even wear on the
disk. aftermarket are simply not worth the compromise for the $5 you save.


> > wrote in message
> ...
> On Dec 2, 10:08 pm, Tegger > wrote:
>> "newman" > wrote innews:4JI4j.389$md.113@trnddc06:
>>
>>> Was replacing the pads on my 99 Accord and had some difficulty
>>> pressing the rear brake pistons back.
>>> The rear brake pistons are somewhat different from front pistons.
>>> They have a slot in them. I ended up turning the piston clockwise
>>> using a larger screwdriver (in the slot) in order to get it to
>>> depress. I had to do this on both sides.
>> Congratulations to you for not simply squishing them in with a C-clamp.
>> What you did was the right thing to do.
>>
>>
>>
>>> I also wanted to machine the front rotors but could not get the two
>>> phillips screws out. Even used an impact driver-the bit broke in the
>>> phillips head.
>> They kinda get stuck, yeah.
>>
>>
>>
>>> The front pads, however, were in good shape so I did not replace them.
>>> But I wonder how one removes the two phillips screws in order to
>>> remove the rotor.
>> Drill the screws out. But it might take more than that to get the rotors
>> to
>> let go... Ask here for more...
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>
> In the past, I was successful dislodging those screws with a chisel(as
> a last resort, you may not be able to reuse them).
> HTH
> JerryR
>
>

On Dec 3, 10:00 pm, Al > wrote:
> newman wrote:
> > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace the
> > two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
> > rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.
>
> I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to
> stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.

Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling
off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything
is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have
similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't
put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if
the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the
hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't.

You may very well be correct. I did a search and found that there is much
disagreement on whether to use them or just leave them out.

But I checked the local Honda dealer online for parts. The screws appear to
just cost 47 cents each. For that price, I'll just play it safe and
reinstall them.

Any tips on removing the rotors one I drill out the screws?

Thanks for all the replies.
"z" > wrote in message
...
On Dec 3, 10:00 pm, Al > wrote:
> newman wrote:
> > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to replace
> > the
> > two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use rubber hammer to coax
> > rotor off, then don't use any on machined rotors.
>
> I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them to
> stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.

Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling
off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything
is new and nonrusty and not stuck. don't most manufacturers have
similar screws on the rotors? I've seen a looooot of guys who don't
put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if
the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the
hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't.

z > wrote in
:

> On Dec 3, 10:00 pm, Al > wrote:
>> newman wrote:
>> > The fellow at the auto supply said that you don't really need to
>> > replace the two phillips screws. Just drill them out and use
>> > rubber hammer to coax rotor off, then don't use any on machined
>> > rotors.
>>
>> I wish the auto supply fellow would get a job at Honda and get them
>> to stop putting all those unnecessary parts on their cars.
>
> Honestly, I think the screws are just to keep the rotors from falling
> off on the assembly line before the wheels get put on, when everything
> is new and nonrusty and not stuck.



You'd think so, but that's not why they're there.

The real reason for those little screws is to keep the rotors from shifting
when you have the caliper off during brake servicing. If the rotors shift,
crud falls between the rotor and hub, causing brake vibration.


> don't most manufacturers have
> similar screws on the rotors?


Not Toyota, for some very odd reason.


> I've seen a looooot of guys who don't
> put them back when they finally get the rotors loose. it's not as if
> the two philips screws are going to pull the rotor tight against the
> hub through all the rust and crud, when the wheel stud nuts won't.



It's quite a lot more complicated than that...



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/