Engine Restoration and OIL - Pierce Arrow

I am going to start my 1937 Pierce Arrow 8 after the engine has been
restored. It has been sitting for about one year without being turned
over manually. I want to add oil to the engine to "prime it". I can
not take out the distributer and do a drill start ( pump ). I can add
oil to one of the oil galleries where the oil pressure gauge connects to
the block.

Any suggestions on how to do this? I was thinking about an external can
that has a brand -X oil pump in it that connects to the oil gague input
on the engine and then spin it up with a hand drill. Therby forcing oil
into the "new" motor.

On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 13:36:58 -0800, steve silevrman
> wrote:

>Any suggestions on how to do this? I was thinking about an external can
>that has a brand -X oil pump in it that connects to the oil gague input
>on the engine and then spin it up with a hand drill. Therby forcing oil
>into the "new" motor.

I think that would work just great. But the other question is can you
turn the crank over by hand? I had a 360 that was a factory build
that set on the pallet for 3 years. Every now and then I would
pressure feed oil into it with compressed air into a sealed tank and
hand crank it over. Parking at a different spot on the cam . When I
finaly put it in the '29. It started up just fine and I had pressure
within moments.

Steve E.

steve silevrman wrote:
>
> Any suggestions on how to do this?

I did this once with a Ford engine. I got an old freon tank from an AC shop (about
the size of the propane tanks used for grills). I removed the valve and put in five
quarts of oil with a funnel. Then I replaced the valve. I then hooked up an air
compressor and put about 30 PSI into the tank. Ran a line from the tank to the hole
for the oil pressure sending unit, turned the tank upside down, and opened the valve.
It took several minutes for the tank to empty, but that got oil into every passage.

The hardest part was getting the oil into the tanks -- that's an awfully small hole.
If you don't have a compressor, you can work out some method of pressurizing it from
a gas station air pump. All of the hose and fittings were bought at a local hardware
store.

George Patterson
If a man gets into a fight 3,000 miles away from home, he *had* to have
been looking for it.

Steven

Your method seems great. Unfortunately the crank hole is now covered by
the radiator and I can't get access to it. I Guess I could remove the
radiator and do spin the motor. When I had it on an engine stand I did
just that a least once per week.

The compressed air thing will work. I think that max pressure in my car
was at about 50 pounds or so of oil.

Steve S

Steven E. Eyrse wrote:

> On Sun, 07 Nov 2004 13:36:58 -0800, steve silevrman
> > wrote:
>
>
>>Any suggestions on how to do this? I was thinking about an external can
>>that has a brand -X oil pump in it that connects to the oil gague input
>>on the engine and then spin it up with a hand drill. Therby forcing oil
>>into the "new" motor.
>
>
> I think that would work just great. But the other question is can you
> turn the crank over by hand? I had a 360 that was a factory build
> that set on the pallet for 3 years. Every now and then I would
> pressure feed oil into it with compressed air into a sealed tank and
> hand crank it over. Parking at a different spot on the cam . When I
> finaly put it in the '29. It started up just fine and I had pressure
> within moments.
>
> Steve E.

steve silevrman > had
writtennews:GBCjd.95224$kz3.62976@fed1read02:

> Steven
>
> Your method seems great. Unfortunately the crank hole is now
> covered by the radiator and I can't get access to it. I Guess I
> could remove the radiator and do spin the motor. When I had it on
> an engine stand I did just that a least once per week.
>
>

Can you put it on stands, leave it in gear and turn a drive wheel!

--
Barney __________________________
"Name calling is best left to the children."