If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
"whonea" wrote:
> Fuel pump won't stop the injectors from firing. I'm surprised > at you, > Mike. This is a perfect place to point to the ground strap > <g>. Jump > the battery negative to a clean bolt on the firewall and see > what > happens ( try jumpering to the ground lug on the firewall up > by the > MAP sensor - the one with the braided cable on it - as that's > the > cable that rots out). > > On Wed, 8 Jun 2005 18:40:18 UTC Mike Romain > > > wrote: > > > The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers > side fender > > by the radiator. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in > '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > langer1 wrote: > > > > > > "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote: > > > > Hey, > > > > actually Help! > > > > > > > > Here's my symptoms: > > > > > > > > 1. Cranks fine > > > > 2. Lots of good spark > > > > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression > stroke.. verified twice. > > > > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized > > > > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as > we can tell) > > > > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the > sensor) > > > > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional > > > > > > > > Big clue is the following and explains why > its not firing: > > > > > > > > We stuck a Noid light on two or three > injector plugs and > > > > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This > explains the lack > > > > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause > the fuel injectors > > > > not > > > > to be pulsed. > > > > > > > > We haven't done a compression test but > we've got a > > > > professionally > > > > built long block so I'm not sure it needs > to be done... > > > > > > > > Any thoughts or insight would be > appreciated.. > > > > HELP HELP HELP > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > James > > > > > > Having pretty much the same problem. > > > It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel > so that was > > > replaced. > > > The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment > with me and I had > > > no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix > it but not for > > > long. > > > Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it > but not for long. > > > I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power > to pump, fuel > > > pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not > run, there is no > > > ballist resistor anywhere to be found. > > > On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid > and a relay that > > > should be the fan control. > > > This is a 87 AMC 4.0. > > > > > > -- > > > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com > interface, at author's request > > > Articles individually checked for conformance to > usenet standards > > > Topic URL: > http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jee...ict119514.html > > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). > Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383 > > > -- > Will Honea Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections, still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg |
Ads |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
langer1 wrote:
> > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections, > still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a > picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. > > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum thing out on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together with the thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp where someone bypassed the resistor. Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical chrysler ceramic one. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
"Mike Romain" wrote:
> langer1 wrote: > > > > > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned > connections, > > still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. > Here’s a > > picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. > > > > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg > > Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum > thing out > on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together > with the > thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp > where someone > bypassed the resistor. > > Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical > chrysler > ceramic one. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's If you look ar the above picture. Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse. But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel pump circut. -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jee...ict119514.html Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=604196 |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
langer1 wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" wrote: > > langer1 wrote: > > > > > > > > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned > > connections, > > > still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. > > Here’s a > > > picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. > > > > > > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg > > > > Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum > > thing out > > on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together > > with the > > thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp > > where someone > > bypassed the resistor. > > > > Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical > > chrysler > > ceramic one. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > If you look ar the above picture. > Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small > orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. > Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse. > But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel > pump circut. > > -- Did you test it? Could just be popped. If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes back on. Mike |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
"Mike Romain" wrote:
> langer1 wrote: > > > > "Mike Romain" wrote: > > > langer1 wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though > and cleaned > > > connections, > > > > still pump don’t run and can’t find any > ballist resistor. > > > Here’s a > > > > picture of driver side, nothing under > washer bottle either. > > > > > > > > > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg > > > > > > Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below > that vacuum > > > thing out > > > on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted > together > > > with the > > > thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed > crimp > > > where someone > > > bypassed the resistor. > > > > > > Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the > typical > > > chrysler > > > ceramic one. > > > > > > Mike > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to > tail in '00 > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > If you look ar the above picture. > > Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a > small > > orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. > > Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a > fuse. > > But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like > it’s in the fuel > > pump circut. > > > > -- > > Did you test it? Could just be popped. > > If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or > temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes > back on. > > Mike Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell) Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start. Previous owners had lots of troubleshooting done to find this intermittent problem [replaced original, still had problem eventually] - even gave me a new one with the vehicle [which I still have] - I have put over 100k miles on this ride in the last 6 years, and still ’Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start...’ -- Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jee...ict119514.html Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=606874 |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
cno wrote:
> > "Mike Romain" wrote: > > langer1 wrote: > > > > > > If you look ar the above picture. > > > Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a > > small > > > orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. > > > Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a > > fuse. > > > But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like > > it’s in the fuel > > > pump circut. > > > > > > -- > > > > Did you test it? Could just be popped. > > > > If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or > > temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes > > back on. > > > > Mike > > Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell) > > Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to > get vehicle to start. Previous owners had lots of troubleshooting done > to find this intermittent problem [replaced original, still had > problem eventually] - even gave me a new one with the vehicle [which I > still have] - I have put over 100k miles on this ride in the last 6 > years, and still ’Every three to six months I have to disconnect and > reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start...’ > > -- I got good advise on those plug and sockets, same for the throttle body ones like the TPS and it was to do the same thing. I went one better and recommend a spray contact cleaner inside them with a smear of dielectric grease on the plug's sealing skirts. I get a good 2 or more years out of them before having to clean them again that way. WD40 will sort of work as a contact cleaner in a pinch, but the fix doesn't seem to last long. Real electronic cleaner is the best. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
warman i am surprised you mix oil | [email protected] | Ford Mustang | 5 | May 8th 05 04:04 AM |
97 Jeep Cherokee Country fuel pump problems | William Bushnell | Jeep | 8 | April 13th 05 08:33 PM |
DaimlerChrysler Commits Over $70 Million to Fuel Cell | Shrike | Dodge | 0 | March 30th 05 09:03 PM |
1994 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED STARTING PROBLEMS | [email protected] | Jeep | 0 | March 17th 05 01:24 AM |
Jeep VS others | Elliot Westcott | Chrysler | 64 | December 19th 04 02:22 PM |