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2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...



 
 
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  #1  
Old April 11th 06, 09:06 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...


The car is stalling when slowing down after running for awhile. No chuging, no bogging it just cuts off. Scenero- Crusing on highway @ 75mph, approaching exit, applying breaks, the tach will slowly fall from 750 rpm's to about 500 rpm's and then just drop to 0 and stall. Then I drop into neutral and start it up and go......Could it be the MAP or EGR ????????????
It has been doing this for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty ****ed.
I have replaced the PCV and the crankshaft sensor. No Luck! And much BLOOD!

There are NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes!

I don't want to pay for a mechanic to diagnose the car, because that is just a waste of money,(look, I'm frugal and if I can fix it myself I will) but so is replacing every damn sensor. I have only dropped about 35 bucks so no big deal, but the rest of the sensors cost a bit more so I just want to see if anyone has found a solution for the dreaded stall.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
G


--
hrdrocker37

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  #2  
Old April 12th 06, 09:35 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...



--

"hrdrocker37" > wrote in message
...
>
> The car is stalling when slowing down after running for awhile. No

chuging, no bogging it just cuts off. Scenero- Crusing on highway @
75mph, approaching exit, applying breaks, the tach will slowly fall from 750
rpm's to about 500 rpm's and then just drop to 0 and stall. Then I drop into
neutral and start it up and go......Could it be the MAP or EGR ????????????
> It has been doing this for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty

****ed.
> I have replaced the PCV and the crankshaft sensor. No Luck! And much

BLOOD!
>
> There are NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes!
>
> I don't want to pay for a mechanic to diagnose the car, because that is

just a waste of money,(look, I'm frugal and if I can fix it myself I will)
but so is replacing every damn sensor. I have only dropped about 35 bucks so
no big deal, but the rest of the sensors cost a bit more so I just want to
see if anyone has found a solution for the dreaded stall.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thank you,
> G
>
>
> --
> hrdrocker37
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-404299.html
>
> Send from http://www.carstalk.net
>


Sorry I had to laugh at that one, You want to keep taking pot shots but
don't want to pay a mechanic to diagnosis it? What do you do when you have a
dental problem...pull teeth until you get the problem?
A technician can connect a scan tool and monitor all sensor values and
possibly determine what the problem is. but hey , if you wanna take the next
pot shot I would guess at a cam sensor ....o yea what engine is in this?

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech


  #3  
Old April 12th 06, 02:12 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Posts: n/a
Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...

Has the throttle body been cleaned?



"hrdrocker37" > wrote in message
...
>
> The car is stalling when slowing down after running for awhile. No
> chuging, no bogging it just cuts off. Scenero- Crusing on highway @
> 75mph, approaching exit, applying breaks, the tach will slowly fall from
> 750 rpm's to about 500 rpm's and then just drop to 0 and stall. Then I
> drop into neutral and start it up and go......Could it be the MAP or EGR
> ????????????
> It has been doing this for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty
> ****ed.
> I have replaced the PCV and the crankshaft sensor. No Luck! And much
> BLOOD!
>
> There are NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes!
>
> I don't want to pay for a mechanic to diagnose the car, because that is
> just a waste of money,(look, I'm frugal and if I can fix it myself I will)
> but so is replacing every damn sensor. I have only dropped about 35 bucks
> so no big deal, but the rest of the sensors cost a bit more so I just want
> to see if anyone has found a solution for the dreaded stall.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thank you,
> G
>
>
> --
> hrdrocker37
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> View this thread: http://www.carstalk.net/viewtopic-404299.html
>
> Send from http://www.carstalk.net
>



  #4  
Old April 20th 06, 10:26 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Posts: n/a
Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...

hrdrocker37 wrote:

> The car is stalling when slowing down after running for awhile. No chuging, no bogging it just cuts off. Scenero- Crusing on highway @ 75mph, approaching exit, applying breaks, the tach will slowly fall from 750 rpm's to about 500 rpm's and then just drop to 0 and stall. Then I drop into neutral and start it up and go......Could it be the MAP or EGR ????????????
> It has been doing this for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty ****ed.
> I have replaced the PCV and the crankshaft sensor. No Luck! And much BLOOD!
>
> There are NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes!
>


Clean the throttle body and AIS thoroughly. Carb cleaner on a rag works
for the throttle body, short blasts of carb cleaner into the AIS intake
with the engine running cleans it well.
  #5  
Old April 21st 06, 12:05 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Posts: n/a
Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...

Steve wrote:
> hrdrocker37 wrote:
>
>> The car is stalling when slowing down after running for awhile. No
>> chuging, no bogging it just cuts off. Scenero- Crusing on highway @
>> 75mph, approaching exit, applying breaks, the tach will slowly fall
>> from 750 rpm's to about 500 rpm's and then just drop to 0 and stall.
>> Then I drop into neutral and start it up and go......Could it be the
>> MAP or EGR ????????????
>> It has been doing this for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty
>> ****ed.
>> I have replaced the PCV and the crankshaft sensor. No Luck! And much
>> BLOOD!
>>
>> There are NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes!
>>

>
> Clean the throttle body and AIS thoroughly. Carb cleaner on a rag works
> for the throttle body, short blasts of carb cleaner into the AIS intake
> with the engine running cleans it well.


Be sure that the labeling on the can says that it is safe for fuel
injected vehicles. There are claims that certain solvents commonly used
in *carburetor* cleaners will destroy o-rings commonly used to seal fuel
injectors to the head and/or intake, and that a cleaner specifically
labeled as "injector cleaner" or "safe for fuel injected engines" is by
definition certified by the manufacturer not to contain the damaging
chemicals. Some here will argue with this supposed risk, but without
proof either way, are you willing to take the risk?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
  #6  
Old April 21st 06, 05:57 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Posts: n/a
Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...

Bill Putney wrote:

> Steve wrote:
>
>> hrdrocker37 wrote:
>>
>>> The car is stalling when slowing down after running for awhile. No
>>> chuging, no bogging it just cuts off. Scenero- Crusing on highway
>>> @ 75mph, approaching exit, applying breaks, the tach will slowly fall
>>> from 750 rpm's to about 500 rpm's and then just drop to 0 and stall.
>>> Then I drop into neutral and start it up and go......Could it be the
>>> MAP or EGR ????????????
>>> It has been doing this for a couple of weeks and I'm getting pretty
>>> ****ed.
>>> I have replaced the PCV and the crankshaft sensor. No Luck! And much
>>> BLOOD!
>>>
>>> There are NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes!
>>>

>>
>> Clean the throttle body and AIS thoroughly. Carb cleaner on a rag
>> works for the throttle body, short blasts of carb cleaner into the AIS
>> intake with the engine running cleans it well.

>
>
> Be sure that the labeling on the can says that it is safe for fuel
> injected vehicles. There are claims that certain solvents commonly used
> in *carburetor* cleaners will destroy o-rings commonly used to seal fuel
> injectors to the head and/or intake, and that a cleaner specifically
> labeled as "injector cleaner" or "safe for fuel injected engines" is by
> definition certified by the manufacturer not to contain the damaging
> chemicals. Some here will argue with this supposed risk, but without
> proof either way, are you willing to take the risk?


Good CYA advice... HOWEVER:

1) I've found that "injector cleaner" just flat doesn't clean as well as
good old noxious carb cleaner

2) What we're talking about here is sending the cleaner through the AIR
pathway in the intake system (and for the most part just spraying it on
a rag and wiping out the throttle bodies at that), so the exposure to
the injector O-ring seals is very minimal to nonexistent. If we were
talking about putting carb cleaner into the fuel rails so that it
actually passed through the injectors, that would be a different story.

  #7  
Old April 22nd 06, 12:40 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.chrysler
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Posts: n/a
Default 2000 300m stalling upon slowing down...

Steve wrote:

> Bill Putney wrote:


>> Be sure that the labeling on the can says that it is safe for fuel
>> injected vehicles. There are claims that certain solvents commonly
>> used in *carburetor* cleaners will destroy o-rings commonly used to
>> seal fuel injectors to the head and/or intake, and that a cleaner
>> specifically labeled as "injector cleaner" or "safe for fuel injected
>> engines" is by definition certified by the manufacturer not to contain
>> the damaging chemicals. Some here will argue with this supposed risk,
>> but without proof either way, are you willing to take the risk?


> Good CYA advice... HOWEVER:


Whose 'A' am I 'C'ing?

> 1) I've found that "injector cleaner" just flat doesn't clean as well as
> good old noxious carb cleaner
>
> 2) What we're talking about here is sending the cleaner through the AIR
> pathway in the intake system (and for the most part just spraying it on
> a rag and wiping out the throttle bodies at that), so the exposure to
> the injector O-ring seals is very minimal to nonexistent. If we were
> talking about putting carb cleaner into the fuel rails so that it
> actually passed through the injectors, that would be a different story.


I've been thru that discussion with maxpower. The injector o-rings are
the sealing gaskets, and as such there is some surface, admittedly
small, that is exposed to whatever flows thru the air pathway. The
o-rings will be exposed to the cleaner either in liquid form or fumes.
Cracks in o-rings to not confine themselves to the initially exposed
area - they grow. We can disagree on this - you use the carb cleaner,
I'll use the injector cleaner - we'll probably both be fine.

When I sprayed injector cleaner into my throttle body per the
instructions, the black gunk instantaneously melted away like butter and
I was left with nothing but shiny metal showing.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
 




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