Changing Thermostat - 2000 Town&Country van -- Questions

Greetings;
I'm about to change the thermostat in my 2000 T&C, 3.8L.
What is the factory recommended temp setting?
What do most of the Do-it-yourself people use,
if different from the factory spec?
Are there any tricks to make the job go easier?
Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe
thermostats that open up when they die, instead of close?

The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the
temp but now it takes a long time to warm up. My guess is
the thermostat is stuck open.

Many thanks in advance for any advice.
Also - thanks for all the fine people in this group that
have provided replies to my Van troubles in the past.

Gary J. -- Atlanta -- It even gets cold here.

PS. I just changed the rear brake shoes on the van after
97,000 miles. A relatively easy job but --
I AM REALLY DISAPPOINTED IN THE ENGINEERING / DESIGN
of the rear brake system. Ancient technology.
But that's the subject of another posting.

upset about poor engineering of the rear brakes that got 97,000 miles
hmmmmm,, ancient technology that last that long should be a good thing,
anyway, the thermostat is really easy to replace, use the OEM part, 195
degree stat, and yes they will open early and cause a lack of heat,
,,,,,,,,,poor engineering, i cant get over that.
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech
"Gary Jablonski" > wrote in message
om...
> Greetings;
> I'm about to change the thermostat in my 2000 T&C, 3.8L.
> What is the factory recommended temp setting?
> What do most of the Do-it-yourself people use,
> if different from the factory spec?
> Are there any tricks to make the job go easier?
> Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe
> thermostats that open up when they die, instead of close?
>
> The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the
> temp but now it takes a long time to warm up. My guess is
> the thermostat is stuck open.
>
> Many thanks in advance for any advice.
> Also - thanks for all the fine people in this group that
> have provided replies to my Van troubles in the past.
>
> Gary J. -- Atlanta -- It even gets cold here.
>
> PS. I just changed the rear brake shoes on the van after
> 97,000 miles. A relatively easy job but --
> I AM REALLY DISAPPOINTED IN THE ENGINEERING / DESIGN
> of the rear brake system. Ancient technology.
> But that's the subject of another posting.

upset about poor engineering of the rear brakes that got 97,000 miles
hmmmmm,, ancient technology that last that long should be a good thing,
anyway, the thermostat is really easy to replace, use the OEM part, 195
degree stat, and yes they will open early and cause a lack of heat,
,,,,,,,,,poor engineering, i cant get over that.
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech
"Gary Jablonski" > wrote in message
om...
> Greetings;
> I'm about to change the thermostat in my 2000 T&C, 3.8L.
> What is the factory recommended temp setting?
> What do most of the Do-it-yourself people use,
> if different from the factory spec?
> Are there any tricks to make the job go easier?
> Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe
> thermostats that open up when they die, instead of close?
>
> The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the
> temp but now it takes a long time to warm up. My guess is
> the thermostat is stuck open.
>
> Many thanks in advance for any advice.
> Also - thanks for all the fine people in this group that
> have provided replies to my Van troubles in the past.
>
> Gary J. -- Atlanta -- It even gets cold here.
>
> PS. I just changed the rear brake shoes on the van after
> 97,000 miles. A relatively easy job but --
> I AM REALLY DISAPPOINTED IN THE ENGINEERING / DESIGN
> of the rear brake system. Ancient technology.
> But that's the subject of another posting.

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004, Gary Jablonski wrote:

> What is the factory recommended temp setting?

195 degree.

> What do most of the Do-it-yourself people use,

195 degree. Do not substitute a lower temperature thermostat.

> Are there any tricks to make the job go easier?

Make sure you have the correct thermostat gasket on hand.

> Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe thermostats that open up
> when they die, instead of close?

Use one if you want; thermostats seldom fail. My preference is for the
Stant "SuperStat" heavy-duty design. Always pan-test your new thermostat
by forcing a piece of twine between the valve and the body so the
spring-loaded valve poppet grips the twine, tying the other end of the
twine to a pencil and suspending the stat in water in a pan on the stove
so the stat is not touching the pan. Using a kitchen thermometer, verify
that the stat begins to open at close to the rated temperature.

> The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the temp but now it
> takes a long time to warm up. My guess is the thermostat is stuck open.

Certainly possible.

> PS. I just changed the rear brake shoes on the van after 97,000 miles. A
> relatively easy job but -- I AM REALLY DISAPPOINTED IN THE ENGINEERING /
> DESIGN of the rear brake system. Ancient technology.

You got 97k miles out of the rear brakes, you changed them easily, and yet
you're disappointed because...? "Ancient technology" isn't a reason; what
is your specific disappointment?

On Thu, 11 Nov 2004, Gary Jablonski wrote:

> What is the factory recommended temp setting?

195 degree.

> What do most of the Do-it-yourself people use,

195 degree. Do not substitute a lower temperature thermostat.

> Are there any tricks to make the job go easier?

Make sure you have the correct thermostat gasket on hand.

> Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe thermostats that open up
> when they die, instead of close?

Use one if you want; thermostats seldom fail. My preference is for the
Stant "SuperStat" heavy-duty design. Always pan-test your new thermostat
by forcing a piece of twine between the valve and the body so the
spring-loaded valve poppet grips the twine, tying the other end of the
twine to a pencil and suspending the stat in water in a pan on the stove
so the stat is not touching the pan. Using a kitchen thermometer, verify
that the stat begins to open at close to the rated temperature.

> The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the temp but now it
> takes a long time to warm up. My guess is the thermostat is stuck open.

Certainly possible.

> PS. I just changed the rear brake shoes on the van after 97,000 miles. A
> relatively easy job but -- I AM REALLY DISAPPOINTED IN THE ENGINEERING /
> DESIGN of the rear brake system. Ancient technology.

You got 97k miles out of the rear brakes, you changed them easily, and yet
you're disappointed because...? "Ancient technology" isn't a reason; what
is your specific disappointment?

Gary Jablonski wrote:

> Greetings;
> I'm about to change the thermostat in my 2000 T&C, 3.8L.
> Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe
> thermostats that open up when they die, instead of close?
>
> The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the
> temp but now it takes a long time to warm up. My guess is
> the thermostat is stuck open.

Yes, I had that happen to my Caravan, 3L, 1996. It was hard getting heat
in the winter and the temperature guage seldom got up to running
temperatures. One of the sides which hold the spring failed causing the
thermostat to stay open all the time. Replacement was easy, BUT remember
to remove some of the coolant to a level below the height of the
thermostat or you'll have antifreeze pouring out of the engine as you
take the old one off.
Carl

Gary Jablonski wrote:

> Greetings;
> I'm about to change the thermostat in my 2000 T&C, 3.8L.
> Does anyone have any experience with fail-safe
> thermostats that open up when they die, instead of close?
>
> The van runs great in summmer, never a problem with the
> temp but now it takes a long time to warm up. My guess is
> the thermostat is stuck open.

Yes, I had that happen to my Caravan, 3L, 1996. It was hard getting heat
in the winter and the temperature guage seldom got up to running
temperatures. One of the sides which hold the spring failed causing the
thermostat to stay open all the time. Replacement was easy, BUT remember
to remove some of the coolant to a level below the height of the
thermostat or you'll have antifreeze pouring out of the engine as you
take the old one off.
Carl