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#1
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Exhaust rattle solution?
Hi group,
I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to replace it. The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car whose blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar with this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. Rick |
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#2
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The honeycomb in the convertor is wrapped with a mesh screen, if that
screen gets worn the honeycomb will rattle within the casing, i would not run screws thru it, You wont be able to clamp it off or crush the casing to stop it "Rick" > wrote in message ... > Hi group, > I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at > idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to > replace it. > The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car whose > blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of > it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. > There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in > excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. > I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I > either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into > the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar with > this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. > Rick > > |
#3
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The honeycomb in the convertor is wrapped with a mesh screen, if that
screen gets worn the honeycomb will rattle within the casing, i would not run screws thru it, You wont be able to clamp it off or crush the casing to stop it "Rick" > wrote in message ... > Hi group, > I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at > idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to > replace it. > The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car whose > blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of > it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. > There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in > excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. > I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I > either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into > the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar with > this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. > Rick > > |
#4
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II think that there are "universal type" convertors that are considerably less expensive (cheaper??) than from
DC. On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 20:31:09 -0500, "Rick" > wrote: >Hi group, >I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at >idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat >embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to >replace it. >The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car whose >blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of >it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. >There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in >excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. >I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I >either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into >the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar with >this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. >Rick > |
#5
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II think that there are "universal type" convertors that are considerably less expensive (cheaper??) than from
DC. On Sun, 19 Dec 2004 20:31:09 -0500, "Rick" > wrote: >Hi group, >I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at >idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat >embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to >replace it. >The car has 135k miles. I'm not willing to invest that amount in a car whose >blue book value is about $3k, and want to get a least another year out of >it. We really enjoy driving this "classic" car and hate to trade it in. >There is nothing else wrong with the car. Even the original roof is in >excellent (some cosmetic marks) condition. >I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I >either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into >the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? I'm not familiar with >this item. Any ideas for a quick fix without breaking any laws? Thanks. >Rick > |
#6
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On Sun, 19 Dec 2004, Rick wrote:
> I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at > idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to > replace it. The shop's probably right about it being the catcon, but $700 sounds like the price for a dealer to install a factory catcon. Forget that noise; go to a good local independent exhaust shop (stay away from the franchise houses -- Midas, Meineke, etc. install ****ty parts using shoddy labor). There are fully approved aftermarket catcons that will do just fine and you can get one installed at considerably lower cost than $700. > I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I > either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into > the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? Either of these hacks would make it very much worse, very fast. Replace the converter. Your performance and fuel mileage will increase, and the rattle will go away. |
#7
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On Sun, 19 Dec 2004, Rick wrote:
> I have a 96 jx convertible and have been putting up with this loud rattle at > idle for the longest time, and now it has gotten louder (and somewhat > embarassing). The shop says it is the catalytic converter, and wants $700 to > replace it. The shop's probably right about it being the catcon, but $700 sounds like the price for a dealer to install a factory catcon. Forget that noise; go to a good local independent exhaust shop (stay away from the franchise houses -- Midas, Meineke, etc. install ****ty parts using shoddy labor). There are fully approved aftermarket catcons that will do just fine and you can get one installed at considerably lower cost than $700. > I'm assuming the guts of the converter have broken loose inside. What if I > either squeezed it with a c-clamp or drove some stainless deck screws into > the sides of it. Would that hold it or make it worse? Either of these hacks would make it very much worse, very fast. Replace the converter. Your performance and fuel mileage will increase, and the rattle will go away. |
#8
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"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message . > > The shop's probably right about it being the catcon, but $700 sounds like > the price for a dealer to install a factory catcon. Forget that noise; go > to a good local independent exhaust shop (stay away from the franchise > houses -- Midas, Meineke, etc. install ****ty parts using shoddy labor). > There are fully approved aftermarket catcons that will do just fine and > you can get one installed at considerably lower cost than $700. This is really good advice, and you should take it. Basically you should avoid any chain that has stockholders to feed using your money. That's a pretty good rule for any kind of car repair. |
#9
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"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message . > > The shop's probably right about it being the catcon, but $700 sounds like > the price for a dealer to install a factory catcon. Forget that noise; go > to a good local independent exhaust shop (stay away from the franchise > houses -- Midas, Meineke, etc. install ****ty parts using shoddy labor). > There are fully approved aftermarket catcons that will do just fine and > you can get one installed at considerably lower cost than $700. This is really good advice, and you should take it. Basically you should avoid any chain that has stockholders to feed using your money. That's a pretty good rule for any kind of car repair. |
#10
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