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'88 Legend: CV, Ball joint boots
Hello all,
I'm replacing an axle on my '88 Acura Legend. Both outer CV joint boots were torn, but I believe only the left axle was making noise. (Noise was mostly in right turns, and it sounded like it was coming from the left.) I am also noticing that the upper ball joint boots are both torn, as is one of the steering ball joint boots. The left side was making noises on rough ground that make me wonder if the upper joint was worn and bumping around. Lower joints have been replaced fairly recently and seem OK. I have several questions for your wisdom: Is it best to inspect and repack the outer CV joint on the "good" axle and replace the boot, or just suck it up and buy both new axles? Is there a good way to check the upper joints? Is it worth the $300 to replace the upper joints and boots, or can they be ignored? (You have to buy new upper control arms to get them) What is the best action for the torn steering ball joint boot? Ignore, replace boot, or replace whole joint? I know my way around an engine, but this is my first foray into suspension/drivetrain. I appreciate your advice. -Ryan |
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'88 Legend: CV, Ball joint boots
Ryan Biggs wrote:
> Hello all, > > I'm replacing an axle on my '88 Acura Legend. Both outer CV joint > boots were torn, but I believe only the left axle was making noise. > (Noise was mostly in right turns, and it sounded like it was coming > from the left.) I am also noticing that the upper ball joint boots are > both torn, as is one of the steering ball joint boots. The left side > was making noises on rough ground that make me wonder if the upper > joint was worn and bumping around. Lower joints have been replaced > fairly recently and seem OK. > > I have several questions for your wisdom: > > Is it best to inspect and repack the outer CV joint on the "good" axle > and replace the boot, or just suck it up and buy both new axles? i'd leave it until it's gone. boot replacement is a lot of work, which while potentially rewarding, can introduce just as many problems as it solves if not done right. if the legend has uneven shaft lengths, you'll find the sort one wears much more quickly than the long one, so there's no point replacing a shaft that'll hang in there for some time yet. > > Is there a good way to check the upper joints? jack under the bottom pivot so the tire is /just/ clear of the ground. then rock the top of the tire as hard as you can. if you feel the top swivel clunk about, it needs to be replaced. > > Is it worth the $300 to replace the upper joints and boots, or can > they be ignored? (You have to buy new upper control arms to get them) how much are new tires? bad upper swivels affect handling big time and accelerate tire wear. > > What is the best action for the torn steering ball joint boot? Ignore, > replace boot, or replace whole joint? it's simple to replace the boot, but if it's been that way for a while, the ball will be contaminated and won't be much longer for this world. > > > I know my way around an engine, but this is my first foray into > suspension/drivetrain. I appreciate your advice. > > -Ryan another good thing to do if this is a high mileage vehicle is replace the sway bar bushings. makes the car handle much more crisply. after you've done all this, get an alignment! |
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'88 Legend: CV, Ball joint boots
The boot on the lower ball joint is easily replaced and I excpect the
upper ball joint to be the same. If the ball joint is clunking around it needs to be replaced now. The two ball joints are the only two links that hold the tires camber together and are very important to vehicle handling and your safty. If the CV joint in the axle is clicking it should be replaced although you can let it go for a little while if it only makes noise on tight turns. With a torn boot you can expect it to go south fairly quickly though. Both my axles make noise on turns and I waiting for them to get a little worse before I replace them. Boots on the ball joint on the tie rod are easiest to replace just pop the joint out and replace the boot but be careful not to damage the threads when removing them. |
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