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#1
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
I always check my oil at gas stations because that's the flattest place.
Well, a few weeks ago I checked and put in a quart. Only after the engine started running rough did I notice that particular gas station wasn't flat at all but on a hill, and I had overfilled the oil. Now I've changed the oil and it's at the right level but still running rough. I think one of the plugs is fouled. Which one? Can I measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, or will an oil-fouled plug give me an open-circuit reading (same as a clean plug)? The vehicle is a '95 S-10 Blazer Vortec V-6. During the period it had too much oil it was parked (1) leaning-slightly-right, (2) perfectly flat, (3) facing uphill, and occasionally (4) facing downhill. I guess if I can't measure the resistance I'll check the cylinder at the back right corner first. -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer. |
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#2
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
too much oil in the crankcase is a no- no.
(you are cautioned - to not overfill) after you change your oil the next time and know the right amount is in your crankcase, and the filter has loaded up - regardless of the place it is parked, if it is parked there over night each time, take a reading, and you'll know where the full mark is, (lightly notch it with a file) and be governed accordingly when - adding oil. There might be a gasoline additive that will help clean the plugs if it is given enough hiway driving after use. mho vƒe |
#3
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
"Spud Demon" > wrote in message
... >I always check my oil at gas stations because that's the flattest place. > Well, a few weeks ago I checked and put in a quart. Only after the engine > started running rough did I notice that particular gas station wasn't flat > at all but on a hill, and I had overfilled the oil. > > Now I've changed the oil and it's at the right level but still running > rough. I think one of the plugs is fouled. Which one? > > Can I measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, or will an oil-fouled plug > give me an open-circuit reading (same as a clean plug)? > > The vehicle is a '95 S-10 Blazer Vortec V-6. During the period it had too > much oil it was parked (1) leaning-slightly-right, (2) perfectly flat, > (3) facing uphill, and occasionally (4) facing downhill. I guess if I > can't > measure the resistance I'll check the cylinder at the back right corner > first. Well, you don't mention when you did the last tune up, but you can just pull the plugs out and see which one is fouled. they should be a tannish color. Any plug that looks wet or looks like it has alot of carbon (blackish color) has the possibilty of being fouled. This means it is running rich and assuming you haven't upgraded your engine with any improvements, chances are you may have other problems too, but if you haven't changed your plugs in 24,000 miles or so, I would consider changing them. ( I do mine at 12,000). I would also change the distributor cap and rotor inside if that hasn't been changed in a while also. Worst case scenario is if you have to add oil between oil changes, you may be in need of a valve and or ring job. Of course if you are going to do the valves, you might as well do the rings while you are in there so you won't have to go back and have it cost you much more the second time. Check the valves for proper clearance. The next thing I would concern myself with is tightening the valve covers if you see a leak. Hope this helps.. Fwed |
#4
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
Spud Demon > wrote:
>Now I've changed the oil and it's at the right level but still running >rough. I think one of the plugs is fouled. Which one? How do you know it's one? How do you know it's not more than one? >Can I measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, or will an oil-fouled plug >give me an open-circuit reading (same as a clean plug)? Oil is pretty nonconductive. That's why they fill transformer vaults with it. >The vehicle is a '95 S-10 Blazer Vortec V-6. During the period it had too >much oil it was parked (1) leaning-slightly-right, (2) perfectly flat, >(3) facing uphill, and occasionally (4) facing downhill. I guess if I can't >measure the resistance I'll check the cylinder at the back right corner >first. Come on. How long can it take to pull all the plugs and check them? Five minutes? Six minutes, maybe? --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#5
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
"Spud Demon" > wrote in message ... >I always check my oil at gas stations because that's the flattest place. > Well, a few weeks ago I checked and put in a quart. Only after the engine > started running rough did I notice that particular gas station wasn't flat > at all but on a hill, and I had overfilled the oil. > > Now I've changed the oil and it's at the right level but still running > rough. I think one of the plugs is fouled. Which one? > > Can I measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, or will an oil-fouled plug > give me an open-circuit reading (same as a clean plug)? > > The vehicle is a '95 S-10 Blazer Vortec V-6. During the period it had too > much oil it was parked (1) leaning-slightly-right, (2) perfectly flat, > (3) facing uphill, and occasionally (4) facing downhill. I guess if I > can't > measure the resistance I'll check the cylinder at the back right corner > first. > > -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net > The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer. Usually, if a plug is mildly oil-fouled, you don't even have to remove it. Merely pull one plug wire at a time, either end, & when you find one skipping both before AND after removal, hold it just close enough to its proper location for it to 'fire thru the air' or 'jump the air gap'. Often the fouled plug will fire the cylinder when it jumps such a gap--less than 5 minutes, start to finish for all plugs. For the one(s) that fail to fire using this procedure, remove it/them & clean/replace accordingly. Better, if you find more than 1, replace the entire set. HTH, s |
#6
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
"sdlomi2" > wrote in message ... > > "Spud Demon" > wrote in message > ... >>I always check my oil at gas stations because that's the flattest place. >> Well, a few weeks ago I checked and put in a quart. Only after the >> engine >> started running rough did I notice that particular gas station wasn't >> flat >> at all but on a hill, and I had overfilled the oil. >> >> Now I've changed the oil and it's at the right level but still running >> rough. I think one of the plugs is fouled. Which one? >> >> Can I measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, or will an oil-fouled plug >> give me an open-circuit reading (same as a clean plug)? >> >> The vehicle is a '95 S-10 Blazer Vortec V-6. During the period it had >> too >> much oil it was parked (1) leaning-slightly-right, (2) perfectly flat, >> (3) facing uphill, and occasionally (4) facing downhill. I guess if I >> can't >> measure the resistance I'll check the cylinder at the back right corner >> first. >> >> -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net >> The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer. > Usually, if a plug is mildly oil-fouled, you don't even have to remove > it. Merely pull one plug wire at a time, either end, & when you find one > skipping both before AND after removal, hold it just close enough to its > proper location for it to 'fire thru the air' or 'jump the air gap'. > Often the fouled plug will fire the cylinder when it jumps such a > gap--less than 5 minutes, start to finish for all plugs. For the one(s) > that fail to fire using this procedure, remove it/them & clean/replace > accordingly. Better, if you find more than 1, replace the entire set. > HTH, s That's a good way to burn up a modern ignition or get yourself dangerously zapped. Works fine for older cars. |
#7
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
"Chas Hurst" > wrote in message . .. > > "sdlomi2" > wrote in message > ... >> >> "Spud Demon" > wrote in message >> ... >>>I always check my oil at gas stations because that's the flattest place. >>> Well, a few weeks ago I checked and put in a quart. Only after the >>> engine >>> started running rough did I notice that particular gas station wasn't >>> flat >>> at all but on a hill, and I had overfilled the oil. >>> >>> Now I've changed the oil and it's at the right level but still running >>> rough. I think one of the plugs is fouled. Which one? >>> >>> Can I measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, or will an oil-fouled >>> plug >>> give me an open-circuit reading (same as a clean plug)? >>> >>> The vehicle is a '95 S-10 Blazer Vortec V-6. During the period it had >>> too >>> much oil it was parked (1) leaning-slightly-right, (2) perfectly flat, >>> (3) facing uphill, and occasionally (4) facing downhill. I guess if I >>> can't >>> measure the resistance I'll check the cylinder at the back right corner >>> first. >>> >>> -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net >>> The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer. >> Usually, if a plug is mildly oil-fouled, you don't even have to remove >> it. Merely pull one plug wire at a time, either end, & when you find one >> skipping both before AND after removal, hold it just close enough to its >> proper location for it to 'fire thru the air' or 'jump the air gap'. >> Often the fouled plug will fire the cylinder when it jumps such a >> gap--less than 5 minutes, start to finish for all plugs. For the one(s) >> that fail to fire using this procedure, remove it/them & clean/replace >> accordingly. Better, if you find more than 1, replace the entire set. >> HTH, s > > That's a good way to burn up a modern ignition or get yourself dangerously > zapped. > Works fine for older cars. > Charles, you are absolutely right, and I stand correcting myself. I had just finished reading about an older v-8,250 hp, carb'd engine used to launch gliders into the air & had not moved my thinking back into the light ages. Thanks for the correction!!! s |
#8
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
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#9
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
"fweddybear" > writes in article <ZGW0g.3505$8q.554@dukeread08> dated Mon, 17 Apr 2006 20:47:51 -0400:
> Well, you don't mention when you did the last tune up, but you can just >pull the plugs out and see which one is fouled. they should be a tannish >color. Any plug that looks wet or looks like it has alot of carbon >(blackish color) has the possibilty of being fouled. This means it is >running rich and assuming you haven't upgraded your engine with any >improvements, chances are you may have other problems too, but if you >haven't changed your plugs in 24,000 miles or so, I would consider changing >them. ( I do mine at 12,000). I would also change the distributor cap and >rotor inside if that hasn't been changed in a while also. > Worst case scenario is if you have to add oil between oil changes, >you may be in need of a valve and or ring job. Of course if you are going >to do the valves, you might as well do the rings while you are in there so >you won't have to go back and have it cost you much more the second time. >Check the valves for proper clearance. The next thing I would concern >myself with is tightening the valve covers if you see a leak. No, it's not actually consuming oil I just thought it was 1 QT low 4K miles after the previous oil change due to an erroneous dipstick reading. I did change the plugs recently, was hoping to avoid pulling all of them. Thanks for the suggestions everybody. -- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer. |
#10
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Which cylinder is oil-fouled?
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