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Chevy Blazer Stuck Hood Latch



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 1st 04, 10:40 AM
Spiderman
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Default Chevy Blazer Stuck Hood Latch

The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally gets stuck (usually
when it's cold out). I tried lubing the latch and spring to no avail. I'd
like to increase the tension on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but
it does not appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal stopper
at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?


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  #2  
Old December 1st 04, 11:34 AM
Wendy & John
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"Spiderman" wrote:

The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally
gets stuck (usually when it's cold out). I tried lubing the
latch and spring to no avail. I'd like to increase the tension
on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but it does not
appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal stopper
at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?

__________________________________________________ __

The metal stopper is usually permanently swaged on to the
release cable, and is not removable.

The end of the cable housing is probably clamped to a bracket
near the latch arm. If so, loosen the clamp and slide the
housing away from the latch arm until the metal stopper is in
the desired position. Then retighten the clamp.

Also, check for misalignment of the latch probe as it enters its
nest when closing the hood. That could cause a sticking latch.

Good luck.

Wendy & John.
__________________________________________________ __




  #3  
Old December 3rd 04, 07:20 AM
sdlomi2
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"Spiderman" > wrote in message
...
> The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally gets stuck

(usually
> when it's cold out). I tried lubing the latch and spring to no avail. I'd
> like to increase the tension on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but
> it does not appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal

stopper
> at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?
>
>

Hi, Spiderman. My '87 S10 Blazer cable broke. *Buy*(This 1st
suggestion may not be necessary--depends on condition of present cable.
See second alternative below.) from the discount parts house, from the
"HELP" display section a replacement cable kit. Remove the old one. Thread
the new one thru the housing(it goes from inside the car thru housing to
underhood--the release handle is fixed to the cable with NO underhood end on
cable.). Kit comes with a 'brass threaded sleeve' that slides over the
underhood end where it is screw-tightened onto cable. Ensure you adjust the
sleeve where it will pull the latch "further".
*Second, cheaper, quicker:* Look at that kit to get an idea what the "
threaded sleeve" looks like. Then, see if you can buy just that piece, cut
off the 'ball' from the end of original cable and attach sleeve further up
the cable than original. Same final outcome as above. May have to get it
from Chevy dealer, but I'd bet HELP sells it by itself. Grease that latch
and work it by hand 'til the wife can open it with her left hand! HTH &
good luck, s


  #4  
Old December 3rd 04, 03:24 PM
Rufus T. Firefly
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A common problem is the cable moves when you pull the handle but the hood
doesn't pop up. I couldn't determine by the post if that was your problem
or the cable was actually stuck. But for anyone who has a cable that pulls
ok and the hood still won't pop up this will help...... The actual problem
is with the hood hinges. Use a penetrating lubricant on all the hinge pivot
pins and work the hood up and down several times while you spray the pins
until it works easily. Once you have it freed up and working correctly a
few drops of oil on the hinge pivots occasionally will keep it working
nicely. The dumb little spring that pops the hood up when you pull on the
cable doesn't have enough force to overcome stiff hinges, especially on a
long, heavy hood.

--
Mike.............................................. ......
"Opportunities are spawned from crisis"
"Spiderman" > wrote in message
...
The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally gets stuck (usually
when it's cold out). I tried lubing the latch and spring to no avail. I'd
like to increase the tension on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but
it does not appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal stopper
at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?



  #5  
Old December 5th 04, 10:36 AM
Spiderman
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Posts: n/a
Default


"Rufus T. Firefly" > wrote in message
nk.net...
>A common problem is the cable moves when you pull the handle but the hood
> doesn't pop up. I couldn't determine by the post if that was your problem
> or the cable was actually stuck. But for anyone who has a cable that
> pulls
> ok and the hood still won't pop up this will help...... The actual
> problem
> is with the hood hinges. Use a penetrating lubricant on all the hinge
> pivot
> pins and work the hood up and down several times while you spray the pins
> until it works easily. Once you have it freed up and working correctly a
> few drops of oil on the hinge pivots occasionally will keep it working
> nicely. The dumb little spring that pops the hood up when you pull on the
> cable doesn't have enough force to overcome stiff hinges, especially on a
> long, heavy hood.



My problem was as you described (you pull the handle but the hood doesn't
pop up). I lubed up the spring and latch assembly and that seems to have
helped...the hood always releases now although sometimes it pops up very
weakly (but at least its not "stuck"). It didn't even occur to me to lube
hood hinges but it certainly makes sense that gummed up hinges would add to
the apparent weight on the spring. Thanks.


  #6  
Old December 7th 04, 02:58 AM
TranSurgeon
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Posts: n/a
Default

before spending good money at the $tealer's, spray the latch and associated
mechanism, including the hood end of the cable, with a good lubricant

I use 'PB Blaster' penetrating oil to free things up, followed by a mix of
ATF and engine oil

if the vehicle has not been 'dinged' in an accident, just loosen the bolts
on either side of the hood and adjust for equal amounts of space between
hood and fenders, and make sure the fore-aft alignment is right by sighting
the front corners to the fenders

9 out of 10 times, this will fix it


"Jake" > wrote in message
...
>
> your hood is out of alignment.
> have a dealer re adjust it. I had the same problem.
>
> it works great now...
>
> On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 04:36:54 -0500, "Spiderman"
> > wrote:
>
> >
> >"Rufus T. Firefly" > wrote in message
> ink.net...
> >>A common problem is the cable moves when you pull the handle but the

hood
> >> doesn't pop up. I couldn't determine by the post if that was your

problem
> >> or the cable was actually stuck. But for anyone who has a cable that
> >> pulls
> >> ok and the hood still won't pop up this will help...... The actual
> >> problem
> >> is with the hood hinges. Use a penetrating lubricant on all the hinge
> >> pivot
> >> pins and work the hood up and down several times while you spray the

pins
> >> until it works easily. Once you have it freed up and working correctly

a
> >> few drops of oil on the hinge pivots occasionally will keep it working
> >> nicely. The dumb little spring that pops the hood up when you pull on

the
> >> cable doesn't have enough force to overcome stiff hinges, especially on

a
> >> long, heavy hood.

> >
> >
> >My problem was as you described (you pull the handle but the hood doesn't
> >pop up). I lubed up the spring and latch assembly and that seems to have
> >helped...the hood always releases now although sometimes it pops up very
> >weakly (but at least its not "stuck"). It didn't even occur to me to lube
> >hood hinges but it certainly makes sense that gummed up hinges would add

to
> >the apparent weight on the spring. Thanks.
> >

>



  #7  
Old December 7th 04, 03:46 PM
KARL SZYMANSKI
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I had the same problem with my 96 Chevy Tahoe and sprayed the hinges and
cable with WD40. It works great now.

"TranSurgeon" > wrote in message
news:q78td.215260$R05.213286@attbi_s53...
> before spending good money at the $tealer's, spray the latch and
> associated
> mechanism, including the hood end of the cable, with a good lubricant
>
> I use 'PB Blaster' penetrating oil to free things up, followed by a mix of
> ATF and engine oil
>
> if the vehicle has not been 'dinged' in an accident, just loosen the bolts
> on either side of the hood and adjust for equal amounts of space between
> hood and fenders, and make sure the fore-aft alignment is right by
> sighting
> the front corners to the fenders
>
> 9 out of 10 times, this will fix it
>
>
> "Jake" > wrote in message
> ...
>>
>> your hood is out of alignment.
>> have a dealer re adjust it. I had the same problem.
>>
>> it works great now...
>>
>> On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 04:36:54 -0500, "Spiderman"
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Rufus T. Firefly" > wrote in message
>> ink.net...
>> >>A common problem is the cable moves when you pull the handle but the

> hood
>> >> doesn't pop up. I couldn't determine by the post if that was your

> problem
>> >> or the cable was actually stuck. But for anyone who has a cable that
>> >> pulls
>> >> ok and the hood still won't pop up this will help...... The actual
>> >> problem
>> >> is with the hood hinges. Use a penetrating lubricant on all the hinge
>> >> pivot
>> >> pins and work the hood up and down several times while you spray the

> pins
>> >> until it works easily. Once you have it freed up and working
>> >> correctly

> a
>> >> few drops of oil on the hinge pivots occasionally will keep it working
>> >> nicely. The dumb little spring that pops the hood up when you pull on

> the
>> >> cable doesn't have enough force to overcome stiff hinges, especially
>> >> on

> a
>> >> long, heavy hood.
>> >
>> >
>> >My problem was as you described (you pull the handle but the hood
>> >doesn't
>> >pop up). I lubed up the spring and latch assembly and that seems to have
>> >helped...the hood always releases now although sometimes it pops up very
>> >weakly (but at least its not "stuck"). It didn't even occur to me to
>> >lube
>> >hood hinges but it certainly makes sense that gummed up hinges would add

> to
>> >the apparent weight on the spring. Thanks.
>> >

>>

>
>



 




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