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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
Dodge 95 Neon SOHC with about 140,000 miles
I had an overheating problem in my car due to a bad head gasket, but I ignored it and kept on putting "sealant" additive to the coolant system for almost two years... now, before I opened up the engine I went and bought: a Remanufactured Cylinder Head (assembled with new valves and all), Head gasket Set (including the bolts and all), Water Pump, and a Radiator (with its hoses). And as you can guess this was not cheap. Without mentioning the recent timing belt and tensioner replacement... So, now that I opened up the engine and cleaned the up the top engine block I saw a little tiny CRACK between cylinder number two and a water flow passage, about a quarter of an inch long, I can barely feel its groove by touch. Now, I need your expert advice, should I put the whole things together and not worry about the crack or should I sell the parts on e-Bay before dirtying them? I have also the following questions: 1 - When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one? 2 - Does any crack size in the engine block cause problems or only some? 3 - Does the location of the crack matter? 4 - How big should the crack be and where for the block to be considered trash? |
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#2
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
-- "Ameen" > wrote in message ups.com... > Dodge 95 Neon SOHC with about 140,000 miles > > > I had an overheating problem in my car due to a bad head gasket, but I > ignored it and kept on putting "sealant" additive to the coolant > system for almost two years... now, before I opened up the engine I > went and bought: a Remanufactured Cylinder Head (assembled with new > valves and all), Head gasket Set (including the bolts and all), Water > Pump, and a Radiator (with its hoses). And as you can guess this was > not cheap. Without mentioning the recent timing belt and tensioner > replacement... > > So, now that I opened up the engine and cleaned the up the top engine > block I saw a little tiny CRACK between cylinder number two and a water > flow passage, about a quarter of an inch long, I can barely feel its > groove by touch. > > Now, I need your expert advice, should I put the whole things together > and not worry about the crack or should I sell the parts on e-Bay > before dirtying them? > > I have also the following questions: > > 1 - When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one? > 2 - Does any crack size in the engine block cause problems or only > some? > 3 - Does the location of the crack matter? > 4 - How big should the crack be and where for the block to be > considered trash? > A crack is a crack no matter the size or wear it is at. The block is toast, no good, don't waste your time or money. Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech |
#3
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
Your screwed! You would probably be better off buying a used engine at a
scrap yard, and rebuilding it with your new components, then selling the stuff on EBay. Use car-part.com and search for an engine block for the neon. You can search by city, state or region. I looked up a block for the Neon for the soutwest and found some for $150.00. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#4
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
Thank you all for your info.
Hartl, just so you know, I called car-part.com, and asked if they inspect the block before they ship them, but they don't, meaning they could send me a cracked block for $150 + $125 shipping (from the nearest area to where I live) with no return policy! So what am I going to do with another cracked block that would cost me $275, I don't even have a recycling business! I might as well sell the parts on e-Bay and get rid of the car. Thanks again! Ameen |
#5
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
That may be the deal, but why not just toss on the old stuff again, permatex it, and run it locally??????? Just a thought, but waste of $$$$ to put new stuff onto a cracked block, Nuff said......... -- Knifeblade_03 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Knifeblade_03's Profile: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...?userid=262826 View this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=554229 http://www.automotiveforums.com |
#6
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
"Ameen" > wrote in message oups.com... > Thank you all for your info. > > Hartl, just so you know, I called car-part.com, and asked if they > inspect the block before they ship them, but they don't, meaning they > could send me a cracked block for $150 + $125 shipping (from the > nearest area to where I live) with no return policy! There are Neons all over the place, and they're cheap, so it doesn't take much to put them in the junkyard. You shouldn't be shipping Neon parts to yourself sight unseen, even if you live on the moon. I think it was an okay suggestion. The junkyard is one of those things that requires unplugging and going out into RL. Your "just so you know" above, as if you could teach Hartl to mend his ways, seems a little bit crazy. |
#7
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
Find a reputable Auto Wrecker. The ones here usualy have guarantees on
things like trannys and blocks as many establishments pull the heads and inspect the block before shipment. Just ask. Most wreckers here are NOT wanting to tarnish their reputation and risk future business by flogging defective goods. If they unknowingly sold you a cracked block, you can usually exchange for another - or get a refund. Just ask before buying. You might be pleasantly surprized. hth On 19 Apr 2006 14:55:24 -0700, "Ameen" > wrote: >Thank you all for your info. > >Hartl, just so you know, I called car-part.com, and asked if they >inspect the block before they ship them, but they don't, meaning they >could send me a cracked block for $150 + $125 shipping (from the >nearest area to where I live) with no return policy! So what am I going >to do with another cracked block that would cost me $275, I don't even >have a recycling business! > >I might as well sell the parts on e-Bay and get rid of the car. > >Thanks again! >Ameen |
#8
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BAD one?
"Ameen" > wrote in message oups.com... > Thank you all for your info. > > Hartl, just so you know, I called car-part.com, and asked if they > inspect the block before they ship them, but they don't, meaning they > could send me a cracked block for $150 + $125 shipping (from the > nearest area to where I live) with no return policy! So what am I going > to do with another cracked block that would cost me $275, I don't even > have a recycling business! > > I might as well sell the parts on e-Bay and get rid of the car. > Where on Earth do you live, guy? Certainly they must have wrecking yards in your area. Check craigslist.com as well, people put old blocks up there all the time. Engine rebuilders deal with this kind of stuff all the time. Why don't you simply call the nearest engine rebuilder in your area and ask them who they purchase rebuildable engine cores from? They will give you the name of the guy who makes a living grubbing through wrecking yards and who has sweetheart relationships with all the wreckers in your area and I would bet he could have a good block delivered to your doorstep in a week, and would stand behind it as well. Ted |
#9
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When do you consider a crack in the engine block to be a BADone?
Ameen wrote:
> Thank you all for your info. > > Hartl, just so you know, I called car-part.com, and asked if they > inspect the block before they ship them, but they don't,... I guess I'm confused since car-part.com is just an on-line listing service. You would not be buying from or thru them. They provide you with contact info. for junk yards that have the part that you looked up and you contact that place directly - any warranty, or lack thereof, would be direct from the seller. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') |
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