water pump

When changing a water pump on a 97 sebring v6, what has to be taken off.
This car has been a nightmare. I have the new pump but the problem is
removing the old one. Any suggestions? Diagram would be great.. I have
been trying for 2days to remove the old pump.

On Jul 27, 7:50 pm, "virginia26" > wrote:
> When changing a water pump on a 97 sebring v6, what has to be taken off.
> This car has been a nightmare. I have the new pump but the problem is
> removing the old one. Any suggestions? Diagram would be great.. I have
> been trying for 2days to remove the old pump.

Well, u gotta have to take the timing belt, and then the pump, located
in the bottom of the engine. If you have any questions buy any of the
haynes manuals available at your neighbourhood's auto stores. I'm sure
they will be more helpful than I am. By the way, it would be a good
idea to check your timing belt as it has to be removed as well. If
it's cracked or shows any signs of deteoration, do change it!

Julian87 wrote:
> On Jul 27, 7:50 pm, "virginia26" > wrote:
>
>>When changing a water pump on a 97 sebring v6, what has to be taken off.
>>This car has been a nightmare. I have the new pump but the problem is
>>removing the old one. Any suggestions? Diagram would be great.. I have
>>been trying for 2days to remove the old pump.

> Well, u gotta have to take the timing belt, and then the pump, located
> in the bottom of the engine. If you have any questions buy any of the
> haynes manuals available at your neighbourhood's auto stores. I'm sure
> they will be more helpful than I am. By the way, it would be a good
> idea to check your timing belt as it has to be removed as well. If
> it's cracked or shows any signs of deteoration, do change it!

Actually the outward appearance of a timing belt wouldn't necessarily be
an indicator of its internal condition (cords - which cause the problem
when they break). Particularly since this is an interference engine, it
would be advisable to change the belt on the recommended 60k mile interval.

Also, not trying to pick on you, but I don't trust Haynes manuals - been
burned too many times in the past. Better to get an FSM.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

On Jul 29, 10:19 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>
> Actually the outward appearance of a timing belt wouldn't necessarily be
> an indicator of its internal condition (cords - which cause the problem
> when they break). Particularly since this is an interference engine, it
> would be advisable to change the belt on the recommended 60k mile interval.
>
> Also, not trying to pick on you, but I don't trust Haynes manuals - been
> burned too many times in the past. Better to get an FSM.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address with the letter 'x')


I will have to second this. I changed the water pump on a friend's
'91 Dodge Spirit (i think that was it)... once I found out you had to
remove the timing belt to get the water pump, I compelled my friend to
get a new belt and tension roller as well.

Also, a past girlfriend has a Toyota thing with serpentine belts ..
one day I changed her oil and took a glance at the belts and didn't
notice any cracking or any of the "telltale signs" that screamed for
replacement. However, the next week, she called me up in tears
telling me she "was hearing a funny noise for two days, then the noise
stopped on my way to work this morning" (15 miles away).. By the time
she neared home on the return trip, the car kept shutting off and
steam started boiling out of the radiator.. the belt for the
waterpump broke and she was still driving it. Unbelievably, she
didn't destroy the engine.. the point is that a belt can fail at any
time -- good looking or not.

Nza wrote:
> On Jul 29, 10:19 am, Bill Putney > wrote:
>
>>Actually the outward appearance of a timing belt wouldn't necessarily be
>>an indicator of its internal condition (cords - which cause the problem
>>when they break). Particularly since this is an interference engine, it
>>would be advisable to change the belt on the recommended 60k mile interval.
>>
>>Also, not trying to pick on you, but I don't trust Haynes manuals - been
>>burned too many times in the past. Better to get an FSM.
>>
>>Bill Putney
>>(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>>address with the letter 'x')
>
>
>
> I will have to second this. I changed the water pump on a friend's
> '91 Dodge Spirit (i think that was it)... once I found out you had to
> remove the timing belt to get the water pump, I compelled my friend to
> get a new belt and tension roller as well.
>
> Also, a past girlfriend has a Toyota thing with serpentine belts ..
> one day I changed her oil and took a glance at the belts and didn't
> notice any cracking or any of the "telltale signs" that screamed for
> replacement. However, the next week, she called me up in tears
> telling me she "was hearing a funny noise for two days, then the noise
> stopped on my way to work this morning" (15 miles away).. By the time
> she neared home on the return trip, the car kept shutting off and
> steam started boiling out of the radiator.. the belt for the
> waterpump broke and she was still driving it. Unbelievably, she
> didn't destroy the engine.. the point is that a belt can fail at any
> time -- good looking or not.

Sometimes the idler pulley bearings get noisy and can lock up to,
ripping apart an otherwise good belt - that may be what happened to your
ex-girlfriend's Toyota. That applies to timing belts too (and you did
mention the rollers). So - yes - to the original poster, replace timing
belt and idlers/tensioners if the timing belt is due.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')