Just did OME suspension change on TJ

Hi All,

I have just changed, with the help of friend, the stock springs and shocks
on my TJ with:
- Old Man Emu heavy shocks and springs (front and rear)
- JKS disconnects for the front anti-sway bar
- Rear anti-sway bar link extension
- Rear shock relocation bracket

Its given me about 2 3/4 inch lift (probably because I have a hardtop).
The job wasn't difficult, just a bit tedious.

I have not dropped the transmission skid plate (because I don't like the
idea). I am experiencing slight shake as I start rolling from a stop and
also when I do hard acceleration. I do have 1" body lift and 1" motor
mount lift that I am going to install and see if the MML takes the shakes
away. However, the weather has been really bad (very high winds and heavy
rain) for the last couple of days and is expected to remain this way for
another 4 / 5 days. Are the shakes likely to damage something so quickly?
I have been avoiding hard accelerations. I don't have a covered garage to
do the work or else I would have done it.

TW
--
01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto Dana 30/44
265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS discos
2" OME lift (1" Body lift and 1" MML to follow)

"TW" <a t t w @ w a v e . c o . n z> wrote in message
...
> Hi All,
>
> I have just changed, with the help of friend, the stock springs and shocks
> on my TJ with:
> - Old Man Emu heavy shocks and springs (front and rear)
> - JKS disconnects for the front anti-sway bar
> - Rear anti-sway bar link extension
> - Rear shock relocation bracket
>
> Its given me about 2 3/4 inch lift (probably because I have a hardtop).
> The job wasn't difficult, just a bit tedious.
>
> I have not dropped the transmission skid plate (because I don't like the
> idea). I am experiencing slight shake as I start rolling from a stop and
> also when I do hard acceleration. I do have 1" body lift and 1" motor
> mount lift that I am going to install and see if the MML takes the shakes
> away. However, the weather has been really bad (very high winds and heavy
> rain) for the last couple of days and is expected to remain this way for
> another 4 / 5 days. Are the shakes likely to damage something so quickly?
> I have been avoiding hard accelerations. I don't have a covered garage to
> do the work or else I would have done it.
>


That shaking is is because you don't like the idea of lowering the skid
plate. The taller motor mounts should fix the problem. You get an option
here, lower the skid plate or raise the motor. I think you have to raise the
body if you raise the motor.

The shakes will kill your u-joints, your pinion and t-case seals and
maybe the bearings inside them so they always will be seepers unless
changed out.

This will happen really fast.

It can also take out a u-joint which can destroy yokes, exhausts, gas
lines, brake lines, punch holes in the floors, etc., when the drive
shaft propellers.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

TW wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have just changed, with the help of friend, the stock springs and shocks
> on my TJ with:
> - Old Man Emu heavy shocks and springs (front and rear)
> - JKS disconnects for the front anti-sway bar
> - Rear anti-sway bar link extension
> - Rear shock relocation bracket
>
> Its given me about 2 3/4 inch lift (probably because I have a hardtop).
> The job wasn't difficult, just a bit tedious.
>
> I have not dropped the transmission skid plate (because I don't like the
> idea). I am experiencing slight shake as I start rolling from a stop and
> also when I do hard acceleration. I do have 1" body lift and 1" motor
> mount lift that I am going to install and see if the MML takes the shakes
> away. However, the weather has been really bad (very high winds and heavy
> rain) for the last couple of days and is expected to remain this way for
> another 4 / 5 days. Are the shakes likely to damage something so quickly?
> I have been avoiding hard accelerations. I don't have a covered garage to
> do the work or else I would have done it.
>
> TW
> --
> 01 TJ Renegade 4.0L Auto Dana 30/44
> 265/75R16 BFG Muds, JKS discos
> 2" OME lift (1" Body lift and 1" MML to follow)

Ditto!
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The shakes will kill your u-joints, your pinion and t-case seals and
> maybe the bearings inside them so they always will be seepers unless
> changed out.
>
> This will happen really fast.
>
> It can also take out a u-joint which can destroy yokes, exhausts, gas
> lines, brake lines, punch holes in the floors, etc., when the drive
> shaft propellers.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> That shaking is is because you don't like the idea of lowering the skid
> plate. The taller motor mounts should fix the problem. You get an option
> here, lower the skid plate or raise the motor. I think you have to raise
the
> body if you raise the motor.
>
>

Thanks for that, I know I need to raise the motor and body. I just did not
want to "lower" something after paying for almost everything that is trying
to "raise" things :-)

I have gas tank skid plate replacement in mind for next six months. That
also needs body lift in some cases.

TW

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> The shakes will kill your u-joints, your pinion and t-case seals and
> maybe the bearings inside them so they always will be seepers unless
> changed out.
>
> This will happen really fast.
>
> It can also take out a u-joint which can destroy yokes, exhausts, gas
> lines, brake lines, punch holes in the floors, etc., when the drive
> shaft propellers.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

Thanks for that wonderfully detailed information. I did not drive it after
reading your email. Although I had only done about 50 kms since doing the
lift. The weather is still bad. I will wait for the weather to improve
and then do it. In the meantime, I am now driving my wife's little number
(if I need to drive somewhere). Its not the same......

Thanks again for saving me from doing some serious damage. The shakes are
definitely there at the start, but not present once rolling till I do hard
acceleration.

Cheers,
TW

Thank you Bill.

TW

"L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Ditto!
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>

Then use a Real Jeep design, and convert to the constant velocity
universal joints: http://7slotgrille.com/tech/sye2/index.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

TW wrote:
>
> Thanks for that, I know I need to raise the motor and body. I just did not
> want to "lower" something after paying for almost everything that is trying
> to "raise" things :-)
>
> I have gas tank skid plate replacement in mind for next six months. That
> also needs body lift in some cases.
>
> TW

TW wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> ...
> > The shakes will kill your u-joints, your pinion and t-case seals and
> > maybe the bearings inside them so they always will be seepers unless
> > changed out.
> >
> > This will happen really fast.
> >
> > It can also take out a u-joint which can destroy yokes, exhausts, gas
> > lines, brake lines, punch holes in the floors, etc., when the drive
> > shaft propellers.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
>
> Thanks for that wonderfully detailed information. I did not drive it after
> reading your email. Although I had only done about 50 kms since doing the
> lift. The weather is still bad. I will wait for the weather to improve
> and then do it. In the meantime, I am now driving my wife's little number
> (if I need to drive somewhere). Its not the same......
>
> Thanks again for saving me from doing some serious damage. The shakes are
> definitely there at the start, but not present once rolling till I do hard
> acceleration.
>
> Cheers,
> TW

Smart move. Those high vibrations cause massive wear fast.

You can pull the rear driveshaft and just drive with front wheel drive
if you really want to. I have driven like that for a while before. If
you have a slip yoke into the t-case, you can cover the hole with a half
a pop can and hose clamp so fluid doesn't leak out. I believe Jerry or
someone once mentioned a top from a can of WD40 covers the hole.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W. (ßill) Hughes III" > wrote in message
...
> Then use a Real Jeep design, and convert to the constant velocity
> universal joints: http://7slotgrille.com/tech/sye2/index.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> http://www.billhughes.com/
>

Thanks. Now my wish list has been re-prioritised!!

TW