Troubles with OBD II - HURRY

I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there is
trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind of
pops and sputters like a valve.

Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems to
be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0, 7.6,
and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the length
and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance readings are in
line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or about 9.

Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?

If you are reading a straight open that is all you need regardless of what a
particular resistance reading is on other wires. Could it be just a plug,
change the plugs.

--
Coasty
SEMPAR PARATUS
(ALWAYS READY)

Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
"Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
...
>I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there is
>trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind of
>pops and sputters like a valve.
>
> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems to
> be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0, 7.6,
> and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the length
> and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance readings are in
> line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or about 9.
>
> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
>
>

Your test is fine Jeff, I'd suspect a connector has come off where it
connects to the carbon fiber conductor. I'd install another set of OE
plug wires, most wires sold by Autozone etc. are pretty crappy quality.
Especially avoid those advertising "low resistance" which will
introduce electrical noise into your CB and AM radio.

Jerry

Jeff Strickland wrote:
> I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there
> is trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it
> kind of pops and sputters like a valve.
>
> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems
> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0,
> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the
> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
> about 9.
>
> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/

Plugs are OK, I think. My brother in law replaced them two weeks ago because
the engine was miss firing. The boneheads at AutoZone told him that if the
Check light was off, there were no codes to gather, so we couldn't see if we
were even working on the right stuff.

I'm off to the store to get a new set of wires. This is one of those
projects where the expensive ones are the right ones, isn't it?





"Coasty" > wrote in message
...
> If you are reading a straight open that is all you need regardless of what
> a particular resistance reading is on other wires. Could it be just a
> plug, change the plugs.
>
> --
> Coasty
> SEMPAR PARATUS
> (ALWAYS READY)
>
> Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
> "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
> ...
>>I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there is
>>trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind of
>>pops and sputters like a valve.
>>
>> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems
>> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0,
>> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the
>> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
>> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
>> about 9.
>>
>> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
>>
>>
>
>

Hey Jerry, send me your phone number to jstrickland at ez2 dot net.



"Jerry Bransford" > wrote in message
news:5r0we.869$HV1.90@fed1read07...
> Your test is fine Jeff, I'd suspect a connector has come off where it
> connects to the carbon fiber conductor. I'd install another set of OE
> plug wires, most wires sold by Autozone etc. are pretty crappy quality.
> Especially avoid those advertising "low resistance" which will introduce
> electrical noise into your CB and AM radio.
>
> Jerry
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>> I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there is
>> trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind of
>> pops and sputters like a valve.
>>
>> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems
>> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0,
>> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the
>> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
>> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
>> about 9.
>>
>> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
>>
>>
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.cox.net/jerrypb/

Yes, in the old days we replaced at one thousand volt loss per
foot.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there is
> trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind of
> pops and sputters like a valve.
>
> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems to
> be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0, 7.6,
> and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the length
> and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance readings are in
> line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or about 9.
>
> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?

Over all the years I have been buying wires, the OEM ones from the
dealer are the best in my opinion.

I am running them on both of my Jeeps.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> Plugs are OK, I think. My brother in law replaced them two weeks ago because
> the engine was miss firing. The boneheads at AutoZone told him that if the
> Check light was off, there were no codes to gather, so we couldn't see if we
> were even working on the right stuff.
>
> I'm off to the store to get a new set of wires. This is one of those
> projects where the expensive ones are the right ones, isn't it?
>
> "Coasty" > wrote in message
> ...
> > If you are reading a straight open that is all you need regardless of what
> > a particular resistance reading is on other wires. Could it be just a
> > plug, change the plugs.
> >
> > --
> > Coasty
> > SEMPAR PARATUS
> > (ALWAYS READY)
> >
> > Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
> > "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
> > ...
> >>I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there is
> >>trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind of
> >>pops and sputters like a valve.
> >>
> >> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire seems
> >> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows, 10.0,
> >> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of the
> >> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
> >> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
> >> about 9.
> >>
> >> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
> >>
> >>
> >
> >

Hey Mikes back....

Tell us of your adventures Mike!!! lol


"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Over all the years I have been buying wires, the OEM ones from the
> dealer are the best in my opinion.
>
> I am running them on both of my Jeeps.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>
>> Plugs are OK, I think. My brother in law replaced them two weeks ago
>> because
>> the engine was miss firing. The boneheads at AutoZone told him that if
>> the
>> Check light was off, there were no codes to gather, so we couldn't see if
>> we
>> were even working on the right stuff.
>>
>> I'm off to the store to get a new set of wires. This is one of those
>> projects where the expensive ones are the right ones, isn't it?
>>
>> "Coasty" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > If you are reading a straight open that is all you need regardless of
>> > what
>> > a particular resistance reading is on other wires. Could it be just a
>> > plug, change the plugs.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Coasty
>> > SEMPAR PARATUS
>> > (ALWAYS READY)
>> >
>> > Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
>> > "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> >>I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there
>> >>is
>> >>trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind
>> >>of
>> >>pops and sputters like a valve.
>> >>
>> >> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire
>> >> seems
>> >> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows,
>> >> 10.0,
>> >> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of
>> >> the
>> >> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
>> >> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
>> >> about 9.
>> >>
>> >> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >

The trouble is, the dealership is closed and it's my friend's car stuck in
my garage. I bought some silicon wires that are pretty nearly the same
diameter as the factory wires, and they solved the trouble and they have a
life time warranty.

I have to agree that this is one of the few places where it pays to buy
parts at the dealership though.




"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
> Over all the years I have been buying wires, the OEM ones from the
> dealer are the best in my opinion.
>
> I am running them on both of my Jeeps.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>
>> Plugs are OK, I think. My brother in law replaced them two weeks ago
>> because
>> the engine was miss firing. The boneheads at AutoZone told him that if
>> the
>> Check light was off, there were no codes to gather, so we couldn't see if
>> we
>> were even working on the right stuff.
>>
>> I'm off to the store to get a new set of wires. This is one of those
>> projects where the expensive ones are the right ones, isn't it?
>>
>> "Coasty" > wrote in message
>> ...
>> > If you are reading a straight open that is all you need regardless of
>> > what
>> > a particular resistance reading is on other wires. Could it be just a
>> > plug, change the plugs.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Coasty
>> > SEMPAR PARATUS
>> > (ALWAYS READY)
>> >
>> > Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
>> > "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
>> > ...
>> >>I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there
>> >>is
>> >>trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind
>> >>of
>> >>pops and sputters like a valve.
>> >>
>> >> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire
>> >> seems
>> >> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows,
>> >> 10.0,
>> >> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of
>> >> the
>> >> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
>> >> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
>> >> about 9.
>> >>
>> >> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >

My wife and I have had a few 'adventures' lately, that's for sure....
:-)

Mike

Steve wrote:
>
> Hey Mikes back....
>
> Tell us of your adventures Mike!!! lol
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Over all the years I have been buying wires, the OEM ones from the
> > dealer are the best in my opinion.
> >
> > I am running them on both of my Jeeps.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Jeff Strickland wrote:
> >>
> >> Plugs are OK, I think. My brother in law replaced them two weeks ago
> >> because
> >> the engine was miss firing. The boneheads at AutoZone told him that if
> >> the
> >> Check light was off, there were no codes to gather, so we couldn't see if
> >> we
> >> were even working on the right stuff.
> >>
> >> I'm off to the store to get a new set of wires. This is one of those
> >> projects where the expensive ones are the right ones, isn't it?
> >>
> >> "Coasty" > wrote in message
> >> ...
> >> > If you are reading a straight open that is all you need regardless of
> >> > what
> >> > a particular resistance reading is on other wires. Could it be just a
> >> > plug, change the plugs.
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> > Coasty
> >> > SEMPAR PARATUS
> >> > (ALWAYS READY)
> >> >
> >> > Remove The SPOOGE To Reply
> >> > "Jeff Strickland" > wrote in message
> >> > ...
> >> >>I am having a code P0302 from the OBD II system, this means that there
> >> >>is
> >> >>trouble with the #2 plug. The car runs like it is miss firing, it kind
> >> >>of
> >> >>pops and sputters like a valve.
> >> >>
> >> >> Trusting OBD II as I do, I tested the plug wires, and the #2 wire
> >> >> seems
> >> >> to be open. The #1, 3, and 4 have resistance readings as follows,
> >> >> 10.0,
> >> >> 7.6, and 5.5 k ohms respectively. If the resistance is a function of
> >> >> the
> >> >> length and the #1 is double the length of #4, then the resistance
> >> >> readings are in line. I would expect #2 to fall in between 1 & 3, or
> >> >> about 9.
> >> >>
> >> >> Before I go out and buy new wires, is my test valid?
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >