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94 Accord ignition switch
94 accord (MT) is intermittantly not engaging the starter when the key is turned to the start position. Pushing in on the key a little will cause it to make contact. Is OK when returning to the on position after starting, engine continues to run. Can I assume that it is the lock cylinder and if it has to be replaced, should the switch be replaced at the same time even if it checks appropriately continuous? Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel to replace the lock cylinder? Thanks Frank |
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#2
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94 Accord ignition switch
Frank Boettcher wrote:
> 94 accord (MT) is intermittantly not engaging the starter when the > key is turned to the start position. Pushing in on the key a little > will cause it to make contact. Is OK when returning to the on > position after starting, engine continues to run. > > Can I assume that it is the lock cylinder and if it has to be > replaced, should the switch be replaced at the same time even if it > checks appropriately continuous? > > Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel to replace the lock > cylinder? > > Thanks > > Frank ======================================= > > Honda recalled about a billion of their ignition switches a few years ago. SEARCH google for the whole story. You are probably not elligible, but replace it for safety. Have you tried NEUTRAL to prove if it's just the safety interlock? Lube all five locks with Lockease aerosol to make all the locks like new, including the ignition lock. (it's messy but it works) > > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf > > 'Curly' |
#3
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94 Accord ignition switch
Frank Boettcher > wrote in
: > > 94 accord (MT) is intermittantly not engaging the starter when the > key is turned to the start position. Pushing in on the key a little > will cause it to make contact. Is OK when returning to the on > position after starting, engine continues to run. > > Can I assume that it is the lock cylinder and if it has to be > replaced, should the switch be replaced at the same time even if it > checks appropriately continuous? > > Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel to replace the lock > cylinder? *First* try a new key. Take your valet key to a hardware store and have them cut a new key from a normal-thickness blank. The valet key is identical to the regular key except thicker. Make sure you're pushing the clutch pedal ALL the way to the floor while turning the key to III. If that doesn't work, it may be the ignition switch. You don't have to remove the steering wheel. Playing with column tilt positions will enable you to wiggle the covers off with the wheel in place. More he http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...ignitionswitch DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE SERVICING THE IGNITION SWITCH. -- Tegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#4
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94 Accord ignition switch
"Tegger" > wrote in message ... > Frank Boettcher > wrote in > : > >> >> 94 accord (MT) is intermittantly not engaging the starter when the >> key is turned to the start position. Pushing in on the key a little >> will cause it to make contact. Is OK when returning to the on >> position after starting, engine continues to run. >> >> Can I assume that it is the lock cylinder and if it has to be >> replaced, should the switch be replaced at the same time even if it >> checks appropriately continuous? >> >> Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel to replace the lock >> cylinder? > > > > *First* try a new key. Take your valet key to a hardware store and have > them cut a new key from a normal-thickness blank. The valet key is > identical to the regular key except thicker. Really good advice, some asshole once wanted to charge me over $500 while in fact all I needed was a new key, the key of my 91 was worn out. Could be a $10 problem |
#5
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94 Accord ignition switch
Frank Boettcher wrote:
> 94 accord (MT) is intermittantly not engaging the starter when the > key is turned to the start position. Pushing in on the key a little > will cause it to make contact. Is OK when returning to the on > position after starting, engine continues to run. replace the switch assembly behind the key barrel. > > Can I assume that it is the lock cylinder and if it has to be > replaced, should the switch be replaced at the same time even if it > checks appropriately continuous? > > Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel to replace the lock > cylinder? don't replace the cylinder, just the switch. > > Thanks > > Frank |
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