If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
1986 carbureted Toyota Corolla start problem
I have a 1986 Corolla (FWD, 4AC engine) with 50K highway miles (all
mine) that over the past few months has gradually become harder and harder to start, hot or cold. It always cranks fine but either dies right away or chugs and gradually increase in RPM. I've checked for vacuum leaks and gone through the factory manual's procedure for checking the emissions and fuel systems, except for the tests requiring high altitude or temperature below 45F. I also checked the carb adjustments (choke opening, base and other idle speed). The AAC diaphram doesn't leak. The fuel solonoids click when voltage is applied directly to them. The choke mechanism doesn't bind, and the choke seems to open gradually as the choke spring uncoils. Acceleration is fine, hot or cold, at least as well as can be expected from 75 HP. A year ago I changed the plugs (NGK), vacuum hoses (all Toyota), and had the engine checked (175 PSI, 5% leakdown). Oil consumption is better than a quart per 5K. What could be the problem? |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
"Snookums" > wrote in message oups.com... >I have a 1986 Corolla (FWD, 4AC engine) with 50K highway miles (all > mine) that over the past few months has gradually become harder and > harder to start, hot or cold. It always cranks fine but either dies > right away or chugs and gradually increase in RPM. > > I've checked for vacuum leaks and gone through the factory manual's > procedure for checking the emissions and fuel systems, except for the > tests requiring high altitude or temperature below 45F. I also checked > the carb adjustments (choke opening, base and other idle speed). The > AAC diaphram doesn't leak. The fuel solonoids click when voltage is > applied directly to them. The choke mechanism doesn't bind, and the > choke seems to open gradually as the choke spring uncoils. > Acceleration is fine, hot or cold, at least as well as can be expected > from 75 HP. Start with the basics - air, fuel, and spark at the appropriate times and quantities. You mentioned choke opening, but how about closing? Does it close when you depress the throttle pedal to the floor and release it? Of course, this wouldn't affect hot startup. On the hard start when it is hot, will it re-start immediately after you shut it down or do you have to wait for a few minutes? What is the fuel level in the bowl when it is hard to start? There should be a sight glass on the carb with some bumps on the side of the housing that holds the glass. The fuel level should be even with those bumps, about halfway up the glass. If the fuel level is low, the float might be sinking or the fuel is draining out somehow. Are you getting spark when cranking? > > A year ago I changed the plugs (NGK), vacuum hoses (all Toyota), and > had the engine checked (175 PSI, 5% leakdown). Oil consumption is > better than a quart per 5K. > > What could be the problem? > -- Ray O correct the return address punctuation to reply |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"Snookums" ) writes: > I have a 1986 Corolla (FWD, 4AC engine) with 50K highway miles (all > mine) that over the past few months has gradually become harder and > harder to start, hot or cold. It always cranks fine but either dies > right away or chugs and gradually increase in RPM. As my 89 Festiva has aged I have to pump the accellerator to fill the float bowl or something, especially if has sat for a few days. Startup idle can be erratic but it restarts fine after being shut down. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body when warmed up at idle to clean out the interior? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
My 1990 copy of the Lemon Aid used car buyer's guide points to a defective Ignition Control Module (transisterized points module inside the distributor) in 1985-86 Corollas which can cause stalling or hard starting. Toyota was replacing them free of charge under a recall program. You can get ICM's tested for free at some parts stores. I've had to replace the ICM on my Festiva twice. I wrote something about it for my website (see below) under "Cars". I recommend the heat transfer grease used in computers when installing a replacement. It also says older cars with stalling problems should have the valves checked for carbon buildup. Maybe the valve cover can be removed and the valves sprayed with solvent to clean them? I used the stuff you put in the crankcase just before changing oil to clean the valves on my Festiva but was advised here that could intro nasty hard bits into the engine. If your compression is uniform I'd guess against uneven carbon buildup on the valves. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
check the ignition coil, especially if yours is inside the distributor
cap |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
96 golf won’t start problem | waghanna | VW water cooled | 1 | May 18th 05 01:54 PM |
A4 - 97 - 1.8, engine start up problem | rabmaw | Audi | 1 | May 11th 05 12:27 AM |
caravan 3.0 start problem -wired coil wrong | bp | Dodge | 0 | April 9th 05 03:47 AM |
New *FREE* Corvette Discussion Forum | JLA ENTERPRISES TECHNOLOGIES INTEGRATION | Corvette | 12 | November 30th 04 06:36 PM |
156 2.0TS hot start problem | edster | Alfa Romeo | 3 | August 8th 04 12:26 PM |