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"Plowboy" > wrote in message news:Vcone.26766$iU.17531@lakeread05... > Jijang... > > Seriously, you might need to investigate about the wheel just a bit. I had > a ThrustMaster wheel, actually I had about 9 of them via sending them in > under warranty and all the newer versions I tried back when... > > The output from the wheel needs to be smooth. now when you calibrate, > if you just go in there willy nilly or without reguard to what is happening, > you may not notice, but the 'computer' and game will... Not sure how much > you might 'get' about what I am saying, so le me see if I can simplify this. > > When the wheel is at rest (lets agree it is centered) the value being > expressed to the PC, is variable depending on specs, so let say it is > showing the computer that it's reading a 100, as you turn the wheel to the > left, it goes up in good wheels 101, 102, 103... on lesser good it can be > 110, 120, 130 etc, up to 200 maybe. to the right it goes down accordingly > and equally for each 'degree of movement'. > > But my thrust-crapper wheel inviariably sent this to the pc, as I slowly > turned the wheel to the left for example... 101, 102, 50, 90 105, 110, 120, > 190. thus the game thought I was turning left ever so slightly then wildly > hard right, then wildly back to left, even though I was NOT. Being the good > sim, wanting to give my inputs to the simulated car, that kindof readings... > was causing great spins in anything above arcade games like MTM and crap > like NFS... > > Anyway, sometimes this is just dirty or bad POTS (potentiometers). If you > dont know what I mean by POT, think volume, balance, or tuning knob on older > radios... as you turn the volume knob the resistance that is read slowly > and linearily increases or decreases, as such the circuits in the radio > respond in kind with volume, balance or tuning is reflected... if the > volume nob for example is dirty or 'bad' you get that 'static' crackly sound > as you turn the knob, that crap can happen in wheels, your game (& PC) try > to determine what you did, usually wrecking you or sometimes ignoring you > depending on the game or SW & drivers... > > Finally, I got a new & different wheel back then, all of a sudden GPL, > nascar, and everything was drivable... many here like the Logitech's > offerings, the Driving Force Pro wheels, the Momo wheels are ok too i have > read, the driving force's I hear are cool, as they work with PC as well as > PS2 I hear... I would recomend one like mine, but they arent made anymore > MS-sidewinder FF v2 [red grip version]. plus you add the fact XP doesnt > really do anything but do 'legacy' (meaning limited) support of the good old > gameports.. so that, if XP's your OS, could be another hurdle to get over? > I think I know what you're talking about. I have a Thrustmaster Nascar Charger (non usb) that twitches a lot even if I don't apply steering input. I'll look into getting something else. Thanks for the post. |
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