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Jerry and Mike are right. That said, I usually run somewhat "stronger"
coolant, in case there is a loss and I have to limp home after putting some Dasani or Evian in it. The best place to store extra coolant, is in the cooling system. Earle "Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... > Our 'new' fan clutch just gave up the ghost. They (DC) are selling > really crappie parts these days. Ours is only about 4 years old. > > To test the fan clutch, heat up the engine fully and have someone shut > it down while you watch the fan. A working clutch will stop the fan > almost instantly. If it keeps spinning, replace. Or shove a screw in > the SOB to make it a fixed fan like I think I am gong to do. If their > crappie parts only last 3 or 4 years, screw them. > > I would get a cheap hydrometer to check the antifreeze. Playing a > guessing game with it is a sure way to destroy the engine. Too thick > will overheat, 50/50 is best for all round use. > > 'I' sure wouldn't swap oil types unless mine turned into an oil burner. > We have over 300K on ours and 10W30 still only uses a liter between > changes. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Endo wrote: > > > > The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to be > > safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice and > > green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get a > > bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out. > > > > I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now anyway. > > Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so i'm > > going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic) > > > > Shawn > > > > "L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III" > wrote in message > > ... > > > Hi Endo, > > > I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid > > > the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core > > > plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch. > > > The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches > > > up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of > > > water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get > > > caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at > > > three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package > > > also have oil coolers. > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O > > > http://www.billhughes.com/ > > > > > > Endo wrote: > > >> > > >> I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the new > > >> Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp > > >> jumped > > >> up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a > > >> quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get some > > >> air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair > > >> higher > > >> than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still. > > >> Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed > > >> another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would > > >> dive > > >> down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down for > > >> good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few > > >> more > > >> times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The > > >> oil > > >> level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is > > >> topped > > >> off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff. > > >> > > >> Any theories for this happening? > > >> > > >> Shawn |
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