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#1
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Value of '71?
There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth
looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6 years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71 is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may rust out etc. Thanks, Tony |
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#2
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tony kujawa wrote:
> There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth > looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or > Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6 > years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm > sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71 > is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need > some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent > driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent > problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if > there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may > rust out etc. > > Thanks, Tony > > Should be well worth the money if it's a decent driver (even more so if it's a convertible). Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage. Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame replaced), but that's very expensive; serious birdcage rust is definitely a deal-breaker. Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for the car. Window relacement isn't cheap, either. |
#3
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"WayneC" > wrote in message ... > tony kujawa wrote: > > There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth > > looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or > > Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6 > > years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm > > sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71 > > is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need > > some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent > > driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent > > problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if > > there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may > > rust out etc. > > > > Thanks, Tony > > > > > Should be well worth the money if it's a decent driver (even more so if > it's a convertible). > > Check for an even fit of the doors to the body, large differences in > spacing along the front and rear vertical edges from the top to the > bottom can be a harbinger of frame rust or collision damage. > > Look for serious rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt to the > frame (forward of the rear wheel kickups) and for signs of rust in the > metal birdcage around the front of the door openings (especially inside > the hinge pockets, and where the pillar meets the doorsill) and around > the windshield (you may have to lift carpet and peer up under the dash > with a flashlight, etc). Frame rust can be repaired (or the frame > replaced), but that's very expensive; serious birdcage rust is > definitely a deal-breaker. > > Look for signs of body damage on the underside of panels and around > headlights and wheel wells, and for telltale serious stress cracking in > the paint, because repair and repaint will cost more than you pay for > the car. Window relacement isn't cheap, either. THANKS! I'm printing this out, great advise. Tony |
#4
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On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 12:55:19 -0500, "tony kujawa"
> wrote: >There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth >looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or >Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6 >years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm >sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71 >is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need >some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent >driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent >problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if >there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may >rust out etc. > >Thanks, Tony > ==================== Impossible to even give an opinion.... That said you should have enough experience gained via your 68 to make a reasonable decision... That said...my NOM 72 Ragtop would NOT leave my hands for twice the asking price of this 71 and it is nowhere near "perfect" .t even if it were for sale... Look it over.. see what it needs then walk or buy Bob Griffiths 64 72 76 79 & 95 Corvettes Come to think of it NONE of my Corvettes wouild leave my hands for $8500. |
#5
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"Bob G." > wrote in message ... > On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 12:55:19 -0500, "tony kujawa" > > wrote: > > >There is a red '71 by me for sale and I'd like to know if it is worth > >looking at or not. I have not seen it yet, but am going tomorrow or > >Saturday. 350 (Not original) 4 speed, A/C, PW, $8500. I had a 68 about 6 > >years ago that was a decent driver that I bought and sold for $6500. I'm > >sure that very car would fetch 10K today. All that being said, if this 71 > >is in the same shape as my 68 was, I'm jumping on it. I guess I just need > >some confirmation of what you all think. I'm just looking for a decent > >driver, no desire to restore. I knew my 68 pretty well and the inherent > >problems they had so I'm not going into this blind, I was just wondering if > >there are any frame issues I should look for. i.e. weak spots where it may > >rust out etc. > > > >Thanks, Tony > > > ==================== > Impossible to even give an opinion.... > > That said you should have enough experience gained via your 68 to make > a reasonable decision... Yes, with WayneC's advise I think I'm pretty well informed. > > That said...my NOM 72 Ragtop would NOT leave my hands for twice the > asking price of this 71 and it is nowhere near "perfect" .t even if it > were for sale... Yeah, I bought my 68 when I was like 26 with 1 young one and another on the way. I had no business buying it then, and had to sell. Now I am no longer with the money sucking ball and chain, have come along in my career, and inherated some $. I want a Stingray again. > Look it over.. see what it needs then walk or buy > > Bob Griffiths > 64 72 76 79 & 95 Corvettes > Come to think of it NONE of my Corvettes wouild leave my hands for > $8500. |
#6
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Major things to look at for that year :
1. Rusted frame just in front of the rear wheels. 2. Windshield pillar rusting ..on the top and both sides. 3. Check all fenders inside on the top, for being in a wreck. |
#7
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#8
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>>3. Check all fenders inside on the top, for being in a wreck.
>You lost me on this one...I have no doubt you have your reasons what I honestly would like to know is why do you specifically say inside on top... Inside I can understand (anywhere)... ******* I think he's talking about *under* the fenders at the wheel arch. When hit that's the most likely place for them to crack, & a lot of folks will just fiberglass them back instead of replacing parts. Of course, if done right there's nothing wrong with that for a daily driver. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*! |
#9
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On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 04:55:03 -0500, "ThaDriver"
<imangeloneAThotmailDOTcom@> wrote: >>>3. Check all fenders inside on the top, for being in a wreck. >>You lost me on this one...I have no doubt you have your >reasons what I honestly would like to know is why do you specifically >say inside on top... Inside I can understand (anywhere)... >******* >I think he's talking about *under* the fenders at the wheel arch. When hit >that's the most likely place for them to crack, & a lot of folks will just >fiberglass them back instead of replacing parts. Of course, if done right >there's nothing wrong with that for a daily driver. >~ Paul >aka "Tha Driver" > >Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*! > ================================= Ok I think you are correct on what the OP meant.... It is the "HEY I KNOW my stuff" ....move... many Corvette Lookers preform to impress their girl friend when they are looking at a Corvette... LOL... I see that "move" every weekend.... Bob Griffiths |
#10
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why not look in dave's empty head? lots of luggage room in there
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