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#1
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1993 AC Compressor Clutch Kit?
I have a 1993 Corvette and one day while running the AC this
blue/whitish smoke started bellowing out of the hood. I didn't know what the problem was, but I managed to get the car home... it was a short drive. The following morning, I started the car up and heard a "thwack". I shut the engine down, opened the hood and noticed that the serpentine belt had broken and the AC pulley would not turn... Now I believe that the AC compressor clutch froze up. I was quoted about $800 from a local Chevy dealer to fix this. That sounds rather unreasonable considering I can buy just the clutch from a local parts store for about $150. Now my question is, is it reasonable to just replace the AC clutch assembly and if so, is this a complicated task requiring special tools? Thanks. |
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#2
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JimNorton spoke thusly:
> belt had broken and the AC pulley would not turn... Now I believe that > the AC compressor clutch froze up. It's not the clutch that froze, it's the compressor. If the clutch is "frozen" all that will happen is that the compressor will not turn off. When the compressor "freezes", it stops turning. -- Shut up, Dave. -|>|- Diode -|<|- '68 L-79 Coupe '79 Triumph Bonneville |
#3
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JimNorton spoke thusly:
> belt had broken and the AC pulley would not turn... Now I believe that > the AC compressor clutch froze up. It's not the clutch that froze, it's the compressor. If the clutch is "frozen" all that will happen is that the compressor will not turn off. When the compressor "freezes", it stops turning. -- Shut up, Dave. -|>|- Diode -|<|- '68 L-79 Coupe '79 Triumph Bonneville |
#4
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Charles Spitzer spoke thusly...
> i've had exactly the same problem. it was solved by replacing the clutch, > not the entire compressor. If that's accurate, I stand corrected. Doesn't sound right, but if you say so... -- -|>|- Diode -|<|- '68 L-79 Coupe '79 Triumph Bonneville Shut up, dave. Professional driver on a closed course. Do not attempt. Actual mileage may vary. |
#5
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Charles Spitzer spoke thusly...
> i've had exactly the same problem. it was solved by replacing the clutch, > not the entire compressor. If that's accurate, I stand corrected. Doesn't sound right, but if you say so... -- -|>|- Diode -|<|- '68 L-79 Coupe '79 Triumph Bonneville Shut up, dave. Professional driver on a closed course. Do not attempt. Actual mileage may vary. |
#7
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On 11 Oct 2004 11:51:14 -0700, (JimNorton)
wrote: >I have a 1993 Corvette and one day while running the AC this >blue/whitish smoke started bellowing out of the hood. I didn't know >what the problem was, but I managed to get the car home... it was a >short drive. > >The following morning, I started the car up and heard a "thwack". I >shut the engine down, opened the hood and noticed that the serpentine >belt had broken and the AC pulley would not turn... Now I believe that >the AC compressor clutch froze up. > >I was quoted about $800 from a local Chevy dealer to fix this. > >That sounds rather unreasonable considering I can buy just the clutch >from a local parts store for about $150. > >Now my question is, is it reasonable to just replace the AC clutch >assembly and if so, is this a complicated task requiring special >tools? > >Thanks. Replacing the a/c clutch does require special tools: http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?Pa...PROD&ProdID=70 But if the compressor is seized up, then the bearings inside the compressor are probably frozen. The best thing to do would probably replace the compressor. |
#8
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Think about it for a moment. If the compressor was actually seized the
pully would turn when the clutch is not engaged, ie, when it's not running. The belt is turning the pully all the time, but the compressor is not. Current is applied to the clutch to engage it and start the compressor turning. Yove already confirmed this in my mind, but if you want a double check, with the engine NOT running and the belt removed, try to turn the pully. If it does not spin freely the bearing that the pully rides on is seized. Now put a socket on the smallish nut at the centre of the clutch. This is on the end of the compressor crankshaft. Turn it clockwise. If this turns (reasonable amount of resistance to be expected), the compressor is not frozen. Highest likelyhood, brg seized up and damaged the clutch when it heated. It's no wonder the dealers have no trouble overselling this repair. Look how many people in this thread would have sold themselves a compressor. Yes, a special tool is req'd to remove the clutch. Not expensive and not a difficult job assuming the compressor is accessible. If the front of the compressor is readily accessible the system does not have to be evacuated of refrigerant. Compressor can be dismounted with the hoses connected so that it can be tilted up to work on it. Steve G. "Diode" > wrote in message . .. > Charles Spitzer spoke thusly... > > > i've had exactly the same problem. it was solved by replacing the clutch, > > not the entire compressor. > > If that's accurate, I stand corrected. Doesn't sound right, but if you > say so... > > -- > -|>|- Diode -|<|- > '68 L-79 Coupe > '79 Triumph Bonneville > Shut up, dave. > Professional driver on a closed course. Do not attempt. > Actual mileage may vary. |
#9
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Think about it for a moment. If the compressor was actually seized the
pully would turn when the clutch is not engaged, ie, when it's not running. The belt is turning the pully all the time, but the compressor is not. Current is applied to the clutch to engage it and start the compressor turning. Yove already confirmed this in my mind, but if you want a double check, with the engine NOT running and the belt removed, try to turn the pully. If it does not spin freely the bearing that the pully rides on is seized. Now put a socket on the smallish nut at the centre of the clutch. This is on the end of the compressor crankshaft. Turn it clockwise. If this turns (reasonable amount of resistance to be expected), the compressor is not frozen. Highest likelyhood, brg seized up and damaged the clutch when it heated. It's no wonder the dealers have no trouble overselling this repair. Look how many people in this thread would have sold themselves a compressor. Yes, a special tool is req'd to remove the clutch. Not expensive and not a difficult job assuming the compressor is accessible. If the front of the compressor is readily accessible the system does not have to be evacuated of refrigerant. Compressor can be dismounted with the hoses connected so that it can be tilted up to work on it. Steve G. "Diode" > wrote in message . .. > Charles Spitzer spoke thusly... > > > i've had exactly the same problem. it was solved by replacing the clutch, > > not the entire compressor. > > If that's accurate, I stand corrected. Doesn't sound right, but if you > say so... > > -- > -|>|- Diode -|<|- > '68 L-79 Coupe > '79 Triumph Bonneville > Shut up, dave. > Professional driver on a closed course. Do not attempt. > Actual mileage may vary. |
#10
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Just replace the assembly. It is not that much and there are only four
bolts that hold the thing on. Why go to the trouble of setting the clutch clearance and end up finding that the compressor was going out anyway and have to do the entire thing anyway. Since it is a 93 you use R-134 anyway so go for the compressor JimNorton wrote: > I have a 1993 Corvette and one day while running the AC this > blue/whitish smoke started bellowing out of the hood. I didn't know > what the problem was, but I managed to get the car home... it was a > short drive. > > The following morning, I started the car up and heard a "thwack". I > shut the engine down, opened the hood and noticed that the serpentine > belt had broken and the AC pulley would not turn... Now I believe that > the AC compressor clutch froze up. > > I was quoted about $800 from a local Chevy dealer to fix this. > > That sounds rather unreasonable considering I can buy just the clutch > from a local parts store for about $150. > > Now my question is, is it reasonable to just replace the AC clutch > assembly and if so, is this a complicated task requiring special > tools? > > Thanks. > |
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