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how much brake fluid
Hi, I am gonna try to change the brake fluid in two Civics. One is
1997, the other one is 2001, both are LX, 5 speed, no ABS. How much brake fluid do I need foe each? I plan to use a syringe to extract the old fluid from the reservoir, then add fress fluid and flush the lines one at a time, (I know the right order), use a hose at the bleeding screw (does anyone know WHAT SIZE?) and have someone pump the brake. Yes, I will refill the reservoir, I don't want air in the system. I have no idea what is the volume of brake fluid in these cars. Thanks |
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#2
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chibitul wrote:
> Hi, I am gonna try to change the brake fluid in two Civics. One is > 1997, the other one is 2001, both are LX, 5 speed, no ABS. How much > brake fluid do I need foe each? I plan to use a syringe to extract the > old fluid from the reservoir, then add fress fluid and flush the lines > one at a time, (I know the right order), use a hose at the bleeding > screw (does anyone know WHAT SIZE?) and have someone pump the brake. > Yes, I will refill the reservoir, I don't want air in the system. > > I have no idea what is the volume of brake fluid in these cars. > > Thanks > -------------------- Less than half a litre will do both, no problem. Be sure your helper knows not to push the pedal down to the floor (or use a block of wood under the pedal) The tubing that comes on a MityVac fits the nipples just a bit loose. You could check that at the mity-vac web site. 'Curly' |
#3
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"chibitul" > wrote in
oups.com: > Hi, I am gonna try to change the brake fluid in two Civics. One is > 1997, the other one is 2001, both are LX, 5 speed, no ABS. How much > brake fluid do I need foe each? Figure you'll open about two pint bottles for each, but use a bit less than the full two pints. Three pints might do total, but get four to be sure. > I plan to use a syringe to extract the > old fluid from the reservoir, then add fress fluid and flush the lines > one at a time, (I know the right order), Honda uses a diagonally-split system. Bleed order is RR, LF; LR, RF. > use a hose at the bleeding > screw (does anyone know WHAT SIZE?) 8mm wrench. 1/4" ID vinyl hose. A couple of feet of hose will do. > and have someone pump the brake. For the 2001 you can pump the pedal right to the floor. It's new enough that corrosion and gunk buildup will be minimal to none. For the '97, I'd limit pedal travel to 1.5" with a block under the pedal. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#4
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"For the '97, I'd limit pedal travel to 1.5" with a block under the
pedal. " Could you please comment on that? |
#5
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"chibitul" > wrote in
oups.com: > "For the '97, I'd limit pedal travel to 1.5" with a block under the > pedal. " > > Could you please comment on that? > > It's eight years old. Unless the fluid's been changed (using the pedal-pump method) at least a few times over those eight years, you risk damage to your master cylinder seals if you let the pedal go to the floor now. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#6
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TeGGeR® wrote:
> Honda uses a diagonally-split system. Bleed order is > RR, LF; LR, RF. > i just go RR, LR, RF, LF... from the furthest away to the closest to the MC. > > > >>use a hose at the bleeding >>screw (does anyone know WHAT SIZE?) > > > > 8mm wrench. 1/4" ID vinyl hose. A couple of feet of hose will do. i likes my mityvac. it allows me to do it all by myself, without pumping the brake. found it works better when i take the bleeder screws out and wrap 1 revolution of teflon tape around the threads. otherwise i get air bubbles through the threads. the speed bleeder screws would probably be better, but i digress. |
#7
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chibitul wrote:
> "For the '97, I'd limit pedal travel to 1.5" with a block under the > pedal. " > > Could you please comment on that? > there may be merit to this argument, but for my money, the master cylinder /must/ be able to withstand excess travel in the event of emergency braking or line failure, so, apart from the fact that full travel bleeding is the only way to bleed some difficult systems, i think it's best to bleed full travel now, and see if it accelerates failure. my experience is that some master cylinders on neglected systems will often start to leak a few days after a fluid change, even if bled by vacuum or pressure [where there is zero pedal movement], because new fluid causes seals to shrink, so therefore cause & effect with full travel bleeding is not absolute. |
#9
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#10
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Alex Rodriguez wrote:
> In article .com>, > says... > >> >>Hi, I am gonna try to change the brake fluid in two Civics. One is >>1997, the other one is 2001, both are LX, 5 speed, no ABS. How much >>brake fluid do I need foe each? I plan to use a syringe to extract the >>old fluid from the reservoir, then add fress fluid and flush the lines >>one at a time, (I know the right order), use a hose at the bleeding >>screw (does anyone know WHAT SIZE?) and have someone pump the brake. >>Yes, I will refill the reservoir, I don't want air in the system. > > > After you empty the MC reservoir, wipe it down with a clean paper towel. > Then fill it with fresh fluid. How much fluid you will need will depend > on the condition of the brake lines. Sometimes it takes a lot of fluid > to flush out all the crud in the system. In my limited experience, one > quart has been enough to flush a brake system clean. > -------------- > Alex > another tip if you want to really flush the old crud out is to open the bleed valves on the front brake calipers, then push the pistons all the way back in. this forces the maximum amount of old stuff out. if you don't do this, you'll get cleanish fluid come out, but because the bottom half of the caliper is not effectively flushed this way, more of the old fluid remains. |
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