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#1
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Help Identifying/Removing Radiator Deposits (PHOTO)
Looking at a vehicle with a cooling problem, I found the radiator to
contain these rough deposits which resemble the lime/calcium deposits found in showerheads: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/funkyc...07.jpg&.src=ph The true color is actually a little more white and a little less brown than it appears here. The texture resembles coral or concrete, with a dry/granular nature. There is no substantial rust in the system, only this stuff. I also removed the lower hose, and found no crud. Also, the wire "spring" inside the radiator hose is not rusted. The problem appears to be confined to the upper part of the tubes. I tried the two-part oxalic acid / neutralizer distributed by Prestone, with no effect, so it's not limestone Can anyone identify these deposits, and recommend a treatment? Is there any in-situ treatment known to remove this? If not, what would a radiator shop do I remove the radiator and take it in? thanks, Martin |
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#2
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Martin > wrote:
> Can anyone identify these deposits, and recommend a treatment? Is Are Holt's products available? They do have a radiator cleaner in their line (name fell out of my brain). Chances are, that you need their "rad weld" afterwards. :-) Nick -- Motormodelle / Engine Models: <http://www.motor-manufaktur.de> Ellwe 2FB * VTM 87 * DLM-S3a * cubic more to come ... |
#3
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"Martin" > wrote in message oups.com... > Looking at a vehicle with a cooling problem, I found the radiator to > contain these rough deposits which resemble the lime/calcium deposits > found in showerheads: > > http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/funkyc...40cf&.dnm=ca07. jpg&.src=ph > > The true color is actually a little more white and a little less brown > than it appears here. The texture resembles coral or concrete, with a > dry/granular nature. > > There is no substantial rust in the system, only this stuff. I also > removed the lower hose, and found no crud. Also, the wire "spring" > inside the radiator hose is not rusted. The problem appears to be > confined to the upper part of the tubes. > > I tried the two-part oxalic acid / neutralizer distributed by Prestone, > with no effect, so it's not limestone > > Can anyone identify these deposits, and recommend a treatment? Is > there any in-situ treatment known to remove this? If not, what would a > radiator shop do I remove the radiator and take it in? > > thanks, > > Martin Looks like silicates from the ethylene glycol... > |
#4
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I haven't seen those types of radiator deposits, but I wonder if the cooling
system is filled with unfiltered well water. Radiator shops used to routinely take a tank off and slide cleaning rods thru the core tubes. That's when radiators were all metal parts. The plastic tank models aren't as easily repaired with the usual practices of the old standard of soldering parts together. Calling a shop will determine if they will do that, and the approximate cost. Compare the service/repair costs of a used radiator to the cost of a new one. The last new one I bought about 5 years ago was about $100. It wasn't marked made in USA, and I suspect that it was imported. It is assembled with soldered joints, no plastic tanks. WB ................ "Martin" > wrote in message oups.com... > Looking at a vehicle with a cooling problem, I found the radiator to > contain these rough deposits which resemble the lime/calcium deposits > found in showerheads: > > http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/funkyc...07.jpg&.src=ph > > The true color is actually a little more white and a little less brown > than it appears here. The texture resembles coral or concrete, with a > dry/granular nature. > > There is no substantial rust in the system, only this stuff. I also > removed the lower hose, and found no crud. Also, the wire "spring" > inside the radiator hose is not rusted. The problem appears to be > confined to the upper part of the tubes. > > I tried the two-part oxalic acid / neutralizer distributed by Prestone, > with no effect, so it's not limestone > > Can anyone identify these deposits, and recommend a treatment? Is > there any in-situ treatment known to remove this? If not, what would a > radiator shop do I remove the radiator and take it in? > > thanks, > > Martin > > ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#5
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Is there something, safe for other system components, that will
dissolve them? Martin |
#6
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The "new" option is attractive, but for the labor in getting it
installed (it's a van, and a real B**ch to work on) and the fact that I'll probably have to order the radiator and be stuck until the middle of next week. If there's some magic sauce that will dissolve the crud, I'd like to have some. Martin |
#7
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"Martin" > wrote in message oups.com... > The "new" option is attractive, but for the labor in getting it > installed (it's a van, and a real B**ch to work on) and the fact that > I'll probably have to order the radiator and be stuck until the middle > of next week. If there's some magic sauce that will dissolve the crud, > I'd like to have some. > > Martin Silicate deposits require a caustic boilout or mechanical rodding. The radiator needs to be removed from the car and cleaned. Last time I had it done, total radiator service including cleanout, test, etc was about $50 bucks or so. |
#8
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Unless it's cold where you are, as a Temporary ban-aid, I would consider
removing the thermostat to eliminate that extra little restriction that it causes (replacing used gasket with a new one). Always a good idea to replace a thermostat before it fails anyway. This may have detrimental effects on fuel consumption, or other ramifications (particularly if there's an engine computer), emissions, catalytic converter, blah blah. This may provide a little more flow for circulation. Temporary, as in not running down to Baha, or driving competition sports. Drive like a granny, and avoid using the A/C.. you might be OK 'till next week. None-the-less, I'd carry some coolant and/or be prepared for an emergency hose repair/replace. A holiday weekend trip was interrupted once by a friend's van overheating. We were in several vehicles, and his had the gear, and something that sounds like gear. It felt kinda stupid to stand in a parking lot spraying water on his radiator (not the engine parts) with a trigger spray bottle. The evaporation helped cool down his coolant gradually. I hope everyone has a safe and enjoyable Independence Day WB ................. "Martin" > wrote in message oups.com... > The "new" option is attractive, but for the labor in getting it > installed (it's a van, and a real B**ch to work on) and the fact that > I'll probably have to order the radiator and be stuck until the middle > of next week. If there's some magic sauce that will dissolve the crud, > I'd like to have some. > > Martin > > ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#9
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"Martin" > wrote in message oups.com... > Is there something, safe for other system components, that will > dissolve them? > > Martin > Nothing that I know of. Years ago I did a short stint of cooling system corrosion testing. I recall seeing a few cans of the mix you tried but I don't think it was very effective... |
#10
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Are you sure that the thermostat was opening when you "treated" it?
I didn't see any Prestone products that contained acid, but the directions for Gunk's radiator cleaned specify that you run the engine up to full operating temperature... then let it run for 20 - 30 additional minutes so the hot solution can circulate through the system and dissolve the crud. Gunk: http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/C2232.PDF If the thermostat is stuck, the cleaning solution will sit cold in the radiator and the hot water will just circulate in the engine. Given the situation you describe, I think I would remove the thermostat and try the Gunk solution... then put a new thermostat in (unless you're certain the solution was hot and circulating when you did it). Just a suggestion, David "Martin" > wrote in message oups.com... > Looking at a vehicle with a cooling problem, I found the radiator to > contain these rough deposits which resemble the lime/calcium deposits > found in showerheads: > > http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/funkyc...07.jpg&.src=ph > > The true color is actually a little more white and a little less brown > than it appears here. The texture resembles coral or concrete, with a > dry/granular nature. > > There is no substantial rust in the system, only this stuff. I also > removed the lower hose, and found no crud. Also, the wire "spring" > inside the radiator hose is not rusted. The problem appears to be > confined to the upper part of the tubes. > > I tried the two-part oxalic acid / neutralizer distributed by Prestone, > with no effect, so it's not limestone > > Can anyone identify these deposits, and recommend a treatment? Is > there any in-situ treatment known to remove this? If not, what would a > radiator shop do I remove the radiator and take it in? > > thanks, > > Martin > |
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