Broken Spark Plug - Need help fast

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 21:01:37 -0500, jbarts >
wrote:

>1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
>I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
>but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
>What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
>move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
>will let it sit overnight.
>
>Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
>I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
>If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
>fix?
>
>
>Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
>checking the thread hourly!
>
>
>Thanks!

I think you mean the plug broke in half where the threads are left in
the block along with the bottom part?

This is time for REAL penetrating oil, NOT WD40, which is not a REAL
penetrating oil.

Use _real_ penetrating oil. Everybody owns at least some. Then let
it soak, go out and give it a tap every now and then with a hammer and
a screwdriver, and add MORE "Real" penetrating oil. Repeat as often
as necessary until you've loosened the corrosion enough to get it out
of the spark plug hole.

Lg

You might be able to use some JB Weld and glue a nut on top of the busted
piece and get another grip on it with a socket. If not, drill and pray the
extractor doesn't snap off. Craftsman had a left-handed drill and easy-out
combo that works but I don't know if it's large enough for a spark plug.

B~

"jbarts" > wrote in message
...
> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> will let it sit overnight.
>
> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> fix?
>
>
> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> checking the thread hourly!
>
>
> Thanks!
FIRST: Try another plug to ensure it's not too hard to saw. If it is
indeed sawable, buy a GOOD blade to do the work.
If it comes down to it, grind down a hacksaw blade's width to access the
hole in the middle of the plug. Wrap a rag around the other end for a
handle, saw OUT TO the head-threads, do another section about 1/8-1/4-inch
away, remove the sawed section(chisel?), then it should have enough freedom
to be removed.
Hope u don't have to revert to this--but it may work if all else fails.
s

DON'T try this trick on aluminum heads!!!
A chisel will cost you a new head.
Pay particular attention to not getting chips in the cylinder, that
WILL destroy your engine. Best to remove the head.

Joe


On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 21:43:06 -0500, "sdlomi2" >
wrote:

>>
>> Thanks!
> FIRST: Try another plug to ensure it's not too hard to saw. If it is
>indeed sawable, buy a GOOD blade to do the work.
> If it comes down to it, grind down a hacksaw blade's width to access the
>hole in the middle of the plug. Wrap a rag around the other end for a
>handle, saw OUT TO the head-threads, do another section about 1/8-1/4-inch
>away, remove the sawed section(chisel?), then it should have enough freedom
>to be removed.
> Hope u don't have to revert to this--but it may work if all else fails.
>s
>

jbarts wrote:
> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> will let it sit overnight.
>
> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> fix?
>
>
> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> checking the thread hourly!
>
>
> Thanks!

I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. You
should use a six sided socket rather than 12. Is the engine good and
cold, or was it still a little worm when you started to pull the
plugs? Let it soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it
with the impact socket (six sided). Before you go to extremes and
try to drill it out, try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an
old 3/4 inch bolt as a punch, then put the impact socket back on it.
If all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the
hole with a "Helicoil repair kit".

BILL P.

William. Boyd wrote:
> jbarts wrote:
>
>> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>>
>> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
>> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>>
>> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
>> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
>> will let it sit overnight.
>>
>> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>>
>> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>>
>> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
>> fix?
>>
>> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
>> checking the thread hourly!
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>
> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. You should
> use a six sided socket rather than 12. Is the engine good and cold, or
> was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs? Let it
> soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact
> socket (six sided). Before you go to extremes and try to drill it out,
> try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a
> punch, then put the impact socket back on it.
> If all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the hole
> with a "Helicoil repair kit".
>
> BILL P.
Did anyone say use and "easy out" yet ?

Its a reversed threaded little gizmo that can get in the center. you use
a wrench on it and works like a charm.

"ed" > wrote in message
news:b0ZJd.1429$fT4.826@trnddc09...
> William. Boyd wrote:
> > jbarts wrote:
> >
> >> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
> >>
> >> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> >> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
> >>
> >> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> >> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> >> will let it sit overnight.
> >>
> >> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
> >>
> >> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
> >>
> >> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> >> fix?
> >>
> >> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> >> checking the thread hourly!
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >
> >
> > I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. You should
> > use a six sided socket rather than 12. Is the engine good and cold, or
> > was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs? Let it
> > soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact
> > socket (six sided). Before you go to extremes and try to drill it out,
> > try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a
> > punch, then put the impact socket back on it.
> > If all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the hole
> > with a "Helicoil repair kit".
> >
> > BILL P.
> Did anyone say use and "easy out" yet ?
>
> Its a reversed threaded little gizmo that can get in the center. you use
> a wrench on it and works like a charm.

I've used an easy-out a number of times. Penetrating oil might get the
broken part a bit loose but you still need to turn it .
I have never used penetrating oil (for this problem) and have had excellent
results with an easy-out.

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, William. Boyd wrote:

> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better.

Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only two
penetrating fluids worth messing with.

On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 00:08:55 -0500, "Daniel J. Stern"
> wrote:

>On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, William. Boyd wrote:
>
>> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better.
>
>Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only two
>penetrating fluids worth messing with.

The nut part of the plug, if I read the OP's post correctly, is gone,
leaving only the threaded bottom portion of the plug in the hole.

With the nut gone, on a dead-cold engine block, there shouldn't be
_much_ holding the threads in place except for corrosion.

I guess the EZ-out idea is a good one but I would use that as a last
resort, since you have to drill into the lower part of the plug and
that is almost guaranteed to place particles of plug in the cylinder.
I would try a screwdriver blade gently hammered into the porcelain, so
as not to break it but create a slot for the screwdriver head, and try
to work -that-. EZ out would be final solution, not first choice.

And use compressed air to clean out everything before trying to
unscrew base of plug. I don't think I would go to the trouble of
pulling the head unless something like the porcelain bottom with the
electrode fell into the cylinder.

Of course, maybe OP's engine is -easy- to work on. In that case, sure
pull the head. If it is bank 2 on my engine, it is very simple, but
put a new head gasket on there for bank 2 before replacing head.

Lg

"Lawrence Glickman" > wrote in message
...
> On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 00:08:55 -0500, "Daniel J. Stern"
> > wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, William. Boyd wrote:
> >
> >> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better.
> >
> >Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only
two
> >penetrating fluids worth messing with.
>
> The nut part of the plug, if I read the OP's post correctly, is gone,
> leaving only the threaded bottom portion of the plug in the hole.
>
> With the nut gone, on a dead-cold engine block, there shouldn't be
> _much_ holding the threads in place except for corrosion.
>
> I guess the EZ-out idea is a good one but I would use that as a last
> resort, since you have to drill into the lower part of the plug and
> that is almost guaranteed to place particles of plug in the cylinder.
> I would try a screwdriver blade gently hammered into the porcelain, so
> as not to break it but create a slot for the screwdriver head, and try
> to work -that-. EZ out would be final solution, not first choice.

There's no need to drill anything with the correct size easy-out. The
correct size being 9/16 IIRC.
Since all that remains is the threads the entire porcelain can be removed
with a flex grabber. My first choice would be a beer. But the easy-out is a
close second.
Have you ever really extracted a broken plug?


> And use compressed air to clean out everything before trying to
> unscrew base of plug. I don't think I would go to the trouble of
> pulling the head unless something like the porcelain bottom with the
> electrode fell into the cylinder.
>
> Of course, maybe OP's engine is -easy- to work on. In that case, sure
> pull the head. If it is bank 2 on my engine, it is very simple, but
> put a new head gasket on there for bank 2 before replacing head.
>
> Lg
>