Doing my own brakes (97 Accord) - need some advice

Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote in article <x81Gi.6564$jn3.168@trndny05>...
> On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 21:10:10 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>
> >> At any rate, the only thing I don't like about Hondas is that some of
> >> the rotors are pressed onto the bearing, and it makes it a REAL PITA.
> >
> > but it's a great way of reducing the probability of insufficiently
trained
> > brake jockeys causing brake judder...
>
>
> And it works! My '88 Accord always went to the shop!
>
>



There you go again, letting your ego set you up for an embarassing fall.

If you knew ANYTHING about the automotive service and repair industry, you
would know that the manufacturers are all trying to lock up ALL aftermarket
service and repair by making their vehicles serviceable ONLY by dealership
shops - blocking independent shops from working on their cars.

There is also an ongoing struggle by aftermarket independents to gain
access to service informnation that the manufacturers are tagging as
"propriatary" in order to keep it out of the aftermarket. (You, obviously,
do not read ANY trade magazines in spite of your all your posturing.....)

It has nothing to do with squeezing the Shade Tree Garage "technicians"
out. You guys are a mere drop in the bucket in the aftermarket service and
repair picture, so give your ego a rest.

"*" > wrote in
news:01c7f612$fad11880$b791c3d8@race:




As a certified shade-tree grease monkey who hasn't broken a bolt in
twenty years, I'll try to answer these questions...


>
>
>
> What lubricant do you use on caliper pins?....on brake shoe
> pads?.....or do you even bother?



Sil-Glyde on the pins if they have rubber boots. Anti-seize if they do
not.

Molykote M-77 or Sil-Glyde between pads and shims.

For shoes, a dab of anti-seize where the shoe contacts the backing
plate.



>
> Where does the shim go on disc brakes?



If you mean the anti-squeal shims...on the backs of the pads. Some
applications have two shims on the inner pad.

The other find of shims I'm aware of go between the pad and the padss
bracket. These give the pads a slippery surface to ride on as they wear
towards the rotor.



>
> On drum brakes, you're diassembling a cheap set of relines, and
> replacing them with a set of brand-new shoes. Which shoe goes towards
> the front?



The short shoe, assuming the brakes have one leading shoe and one
trailing shoe.



>
> Which cars require the use of a special tool to reset the caliper
> piston(s), and can be damaged if the tool is not used - or not used
> correctly? Remember, you're giving out general information here - not
> just for people who own the same make/model car as you do.



My only experience with rear calipers that require a tool are those
where the piston must be screwed back in. These all had parking brake
mechanisms as part of the caliper.

Do drum-in-hat type rear discs require a caliper piston tool, or can you
just push those in?



>
> What is the difference between a fixed and a floating caliper?



Floating caliper uses the force of piston(s) on only one side of the
caliper to pull both inner and outer pads into contact with the rotor.
The caliper must slide over to allow the outer pads to contact.

Fixed calipers usually have pistons on both sides, so there is no need
to enable the caliper to slide

I saw a weird setup on a Nissan pickup once. The caliper itself was
fixed, but the assembly was still "floating", with two pistons on just
the one side. Very interesting.



>
> What's the prupose of a metering valve - NOT proportioning valve - on
> a disc brake setup? How does one diagnose it? (HINT: If you know what
> it actually IS, you are halfway to diagnosing it.)



It keeps the front discs from working before the rear drums have begun
to work. I suppose if you had a problem with the rear brakes not working
but the fronts working fine, you'd investigate the metering valve if
everything else checked out OK.


How'd I score?



--
Tegger

On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 09:41:27 -0500, * wrote:

>>
>
> What lubricant do you use on caliper pins?....on brake shoe pads?.....or
> do you even bother?
>
> Where does the shim go on disc brakes?
>
> On drum brakes, you're diassembling a cheap set of relines, and replacing
> them with a set of brand-new shoes. Which shoe goes towards the front?
>
> Which cars require the use of a special tool to reset the caliper
> piston(s), and can be damaged if the tool is not used - or not used
> correctly? Remember, you're giving out general information here - not
> just for people who own the same make/model car as you do.
>
> What is the difference between a fixed and a floating caliper?
>
> What's the prupose of a metering valve - NOT proportioning valve - on a
> disc brake setup? How does one diagnose it? (HINT: If you know what it
> actually IS, you are halfway to diagnosing it.)


RTFM...it's all in there.

On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:37:43 +0000, Tegger wrote:

>> Where does the shim go on disc brakes?
>
>
>
> If you mean the anti-squeal shims...on the backs of the pads. Some
> applications have two shims on the inner pad.


Shoot!!! I thought they went between the pads and the rotors!

No WONDER I keep hitting kids, trees, old ladies, etc...

But, I'm racking up points like a champ!!!

On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 17:37:43 +0000, Tegger wrote:

>> On drum brakes, you're diassembling a cheap set of relines, and
>> replacing them with a set of brand-new shoes. Which shoe goes towards
>> the front?
>
>
>
> The short shoe, assuming the brakes have one leading shoe and one trailing
> shoe.


On the one car I have with drum rears, they're both the same size!!!


What do I do?!?! What do I do?!?!

On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 09:59:07 -0500, * wrote:

>
>
> Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/ wrote in article <x81Gi.6564$jn3.168@trndny05>...
>> On Sun, 09 Sep 2007 21:10:10 -0700, jim beam wrote:
>>
>> >> At any rate, the only thing I don't like about Hondas is that some of
>> >> the rotors are pressed onto the bearing, and it makes it a REAL PITA.
>> >
>> > but it's a great way of reducing the probability of insufficiently
> trained
>> > brake jockeys causing brake judder...
>>
>>
>> And it works! My '88 Accord always went to the shop!
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> There you go again, letting your ego set you up for an embarassing fall.
>
> If you knew ANYTHING about the automotive service and repair industry, you
> would know that the manufacturers are all trying to lock up ALL
> aftermarket service and repair by making their vehicles serviceable ONLY
> by dealership shops - blocking independent shops from working on their
> cars.

They're losing on me...I do about 80% of routine maintenance myself.


>
> There is also an ongoing struggle by aftermarket independents to gain
> access to service informnation that the manufacturers are tagging as
> "propriatary" in order to keep it out of the aftermarket. (You,
> obviously, do not read ANY trade magazines in spite of your all your
> posturing.....)

Nope, I don't. I buy Haynes manuals and the shop service manual when I can.
I bought a lot of shop manuals for my cars when I was working at a Toyota
dealer.



>
> It has nothing to do with squeezing the Shade Tree Garage "technicians"
> out. You guys are a mere drop in the bucket in the aftermarket service and
> repair picture, so give your ego a rest.


Wait...wait...YOU are telling ME to give MY ego a rest?!?!

There you are in that mirror again!

Tegger > wrote in
:

> "*" > wrote in
> news:01c7f612$fad11880$b791c3d8@race:
>

>>
>> What's the prupose of a metering valve - NOT proportioning valve - on
>> a disc brake setup? How does one diagnose it? (HINT: If you know what
>> it actually IS, you are halfway to diagnosing it.)
>
>
>
> I suppose if you had a problem with the rear brakes not
> working but the fronts working fine, you'd investigate the metering
> valve if everything else checked out OK.
>


On second reading, this sounds dumb. I've never had to tackle one, so I'm
guessing.


--
Tegger

On Thu, 13 Sep 2007 08:45:42 -0500, * wrote:

>> Our friend, "*" (um, who knows EVERYTHING about ALL cars) may not want
>> to admit it, but *I* know when I'm over my head and it's time to consult
>> a Pro...
>>
>>
> If you know when you are over your head, why, then, do you get all
> flustered when I point it out?


Trick question?

Because you haven't yet?

Dude, you need to get 'unstuck' off yourself. You're just making an ass
out of yourself.

Perhaps you do know a boatload more than I do, but I don't really care,
since your "Holier Than Thou" attitude just keeps making you come off
looking like an arrogant ass.

And as far as I can see, you haven't really helped anyone with anything,
you just come across with put downs and ad hominems that do nothing but
steer the conversation at hand away from the point.

Maybe if you dropped the attitude and added some content people would
listen more to you.

Tegger > wrote in article
>...
> "*" > wrote in
> news:01c7f612$fad11880$b791c3d8@race:
>
>
>
>
> As a certified shade-tree grease monkey who hasn't broken a bolt in
> twenty years, I'll try to answer these questions...
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > What lubricant do you use on caliper pins?....on brake shoe
> > pads?.....or do you even bother?
>
>
>
> Sil-Glyde on the pins if they have rubber boots. Anti-seize if they do
> not.
>
> Molykote M-77 or Sil-Glyde between pads and shims.
>
> For shoes, a dab of anti-seize where the shoe contacts the backing
> plate.
>
>
>
> >
> > Where does the shim go on disc brakes?
>
>
>
> If you mean the anti-squeal shims...on the backs of the pads. Some
> applications have two shims on the inner pad.
>
> The other find of shims I'm aware of go between the pad and the padss
> bracket. These give the pads a slippery surface to ride on as they wear
> towards the rotor.
>
>
>
> >
> > On drum brakes, you're diassembling a cheap set of relines, and
> > replacing them with a set of brand-new shoes. Which shoe goes towards
> > the front?
>
>
>
> The short shoe, assuming the brakes have one leading shoe and one
> trailing shoe.
>
>
>
> >
> > Which cars require the use of a special tool to reset the caliper
> > piston(s), and can be damaged if the tool is not used - or not used
> > correctly? Remember, you're giving out general information here - not
> > just for people who own the same make/model car as you do.
>
>
>
> My only experience with rear calipers that require a tool are those
> where the piston must be screwed back in. These all had parking brake
> mechanisms as part of the caliper.
>
> Do drum-in-hat type rear discs require a caliper piston tool, or can you
> just push those in?
>
>
>
> >
> > What is the difference between a fixed and a floating caliper?
>
>
>
> Floating caliper uses the force of piston(s) on only one side of the
> caliper to pull both inner and outer pads into contact with the rotor.
> The caliper must slide over to allow the outer pads to contact.
>
> Fixed calipers usually have pistons on both sides, so there is no need
> to enable the caliper to slide
>
> I saw a weird setup on a Nissan pickup once. The caliper itself was
> fixed, but the assembly was still "floating", with two pistons on just
> the one side. Very interesting.
>
>
>
> >
> > What's the prupose of a metering valve - NOT proportioning valve - on
> > a disc brake setup? How does one diagnose it? (HINT: If you know what
> > it actually IS, you are halfway to diagnosing it.)
>
>
>
> It keeps the front discs from working before the rear drums have begun
> to work. I suppose if you had a problem with the rear brakes not working
> but the fronts working fine, you'd investigate the metering valve if
> everything else checked out OK.
>
>
> How'd I score?
>
>
>

Excellent!

You know a LOT more than SOME of the participants here......

One problem, however, is your use of anti-seize in place of lubricant.

Most anti-seize compounds are designed to keep non-moving things from
sticking together, NOT for lubrication of moving items.

Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for example,
contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose glass beads
provide?

For drum brake shoe pads, there is "Brake Lube" - which is, simply, white
lithium grease.

"*" > wrote in
news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8@race:

>
>
> Tegger > wrote in article
> >...

>>
>>
>> How'd I score?
>>
>>
>>
>
> Excellent!
>
> You know a LOT more than SOME of the participants here......



Glad to know that.


>
> One problem, however, is your use of anti-seize in place of lubricant.
>
> Most anti-seize compounds are designed to keep non-moving things from
> sticking together, NOT for lubrication of moving items.
>
> Some anti-seize compounds, those intended for oxygen sensors for
> example, contain glass beads. What sort of lubrication do you suppose
> glass beads provide?


They roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?


>
> For drum brake shoe pads, there is "Brake Lube" - which is, simply,
> white lithium grease.
>


That's what I use in electrical connectors, which is what the factory used.
I did not know you could use it for where the shoes contact the backing
plate.



--
Tegger