Finally got the codes-any ideas?

Finally got around to having the codes read and below is the history.
The symptoms I have been having are the sevice eng. light coming on for
awhile during a trip. Sometimes, not each time the light came on, the
eng. would skip or misfire, I would get a whiff of raw gas briefly in the
car. The sevice eng.light would go out and maybe not come on for another
day or so. Gas mileage has suffered also.
Below is the exact code as printed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
TIA,
MR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vehicle Scanned
1997 SL1
7=1 . 9L PFI

Set DTCs (codes)

History DTC P0203
Injector Circuit
Open
Cylinder 3
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0303
Cylinder 3
Misfire Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F


History DTC P0503
System Voltage
Low

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1599
Engine Stall Or
Near Stall Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1624
PCM RAM
Performance

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0605
PCM
Read Only Memory
(ROM) Error
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0656
Fuel Level
Output
Circuit Malfunction
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

Cylinder #3 Injector circuit open. Look for a open coil on the injector, a
flaky connection or dammaged wire.Trace the connections all the way back to
the ECU (which drives the injectors). could be intermittent which will drive
you crazy. Many of the other codes may be related to one cylinder not
working because of no fuel.

The other thing that stands out is low system voltage. check that your
battery voltage is about 12V engine off and 13.8V engine running.

The ROM error and fuel circuit error may be related to low battery issues.
(just a wild guess)

Oppie


"mrichards" > wrote in message
newsp.tnbxprp146xnuk@mr-notebook...
Finally got around to having the codes read and below is the history.
The symptoms I have been having are the sevice eng. light coming on for
awhile during a trip. Sometimes, not each time the light came on, the
eng. would skip or misfire, I would get a whiff of raw gas briefly in the
car. The sevice eng.light would go out and maybe not come on for another
day or so. Gas mileage has suffered also.
Below is the exact code as printed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
TIA,
MR
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vehicle Scanned
1997 SL1
7=1 . 9L PFI

Set DTCs (codes)

History DTC P0203
Injector Circuit
Open
Cylinder 3
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0303
Cylinder 3
Misfire Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F


History DTC P0503
System Voltage
Low

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1599
Engine Stall Or
Near Stall Detected

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P1624
PCM RAM
Performance

MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN NOT RUN
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0605
PCM
Read Only Memory
(ROM) Error
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

History DTC P0656
Fuel Level
Output
Circuit Malfunction
MIL NOT REQUESTED
Since IGN PASS
Since Clear P/F

On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 13:54:48 -0500, Oppie > wrote:

> Cylinder #3 Injector circuit open. Look for a open coil on the injector,
> a
> flaky connection or dammaged wire.Trace the connections all the way back
> to
> the ECU (which drives the injectors). could be intermittent which will
> drive
> you crazy. Many of the other codes may be related to one cylinder not
> working because of no fuel.
>
> The other thing that stands out is low system voltage. check that your
> battery voltage is about 12V engine off and 13.8V engine running.
>
> The ROM error and fuel circuit error may be related to low battery
> issues.
> (just a wild guess)
>
> Oppie

Snip
Thanks a bunch for the info.
The low voltage may have been due to a bad belt that I changed just before
Christmas. The belt was starting to squeel and was hard and cracked when
I replaced it. The gas mileage returned to near normal after replacing
the belt which was a mystery, but now has dropped somewhat again.
I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset the
codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
Thanks again,
MR

In article <op.tncg7aa946xnuk@mr-notebook>, mrichards > wrote:

>I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset the
>codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?

Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things too,
things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the stereo).

The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read them.
You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:55:29 -0500, Doug Miller >
wrote:

> In article <op.tncg7aa946xnuk@mr-notebook>, mrichards
> > wrote:
>
>> I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset
>> the
>> codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
>
> Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things
> too,
> things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the
> stereo).
>
> The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read
> them.
> You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.

Thanks. I'll stop by and have them do that.
MR

Simple ECU code reset on the L-series is by pulling the Controls B+ fuse for
10 seconds from the uhfp (Under hood fuse panel). Can't say if that will
also work with any other model.
Harbor freight has a very simple code reader that will also reset codes
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...rd=code+reader

I'd prefer a scan tool that reads data streams but those are **much** more
expensive. Still at the prices for the simple readers (About cost of a tank
of gas), are within everybody's reach.

btw - if you are 'allergic' to repair shops, by all means obtain a shop
manual for your vehicle or buy a subscription to www.Alldata.com Both are
well worth the investment and even if you don't do your own repairs, gives
you enough background to make informed choices.

Oppie

"mrichards" > wrote in message
newsp.tndtayh546xnuk@mr-notebook...
> On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:55:29 -0500, Doug Miller >
> wrote:
>
>> In article <op.tncg7aa946xnuk@mr-notebook>, mrichards
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset
>>> the
>>> codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
>>
>> Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things
>> too,
>> things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the
>> stereo).
>>
>> The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read
>> them.
>> You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.
>
> Thanks. I'll stop by and have them do that.
> MR

I checked the wires on no. 3 injector which the code pointed to and all
looked good from the top end. I noticed that the wires were resting on
top of a bolt that has sharp edges which is on the fuel rail. After
removing the elect. plug from the injector and looking under the wires I
found a worn/burned spot in one of the wires and looked as if it had been
arcing. Taped the wires good and put some rtv on bolt head to smooth it
over.
I guess that was what was causing the misfire and gas smell and perhaps
the drop in gas milage.
Many thanks for the direction Oppie. Saved me a ton of time and money.
I do have a set of manuals and use them for disassembly etc. mostly, but
have not helped me much on trouble shooting. Can't beat experience when
it comes to that.
Many thanks again,
MR



On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 11:49:21 -0500, Oppie > wrote:

> Simple ECU code reset on the L-series is by pulling the Controls B+ fuse
> for
> 10 seconds from the uhfp (Under hood fuse panel). Can't say if that will
> also work with any other model.
> Harbor freight has a very simple code reader that will also reset codes
> http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...rd=code+reader
>
> I'd prefer a scan tool that reads data streams but those are **much**
> more
> expensive. Still at the prices for the simple readers (About cost of a
> tank
> of gas), are within everybody's reach.
>
> btw - if you are 'allergic' to repair shops, by all means obtain a shop
> manual for your vehicle or buy a subscription to www.Alldata.com Both are
> well worth the investment and even if you don't do your own repairs,
> gives
> you enough background to make informed choices.
>
> Oppie
>
> "mrichards" > wrote in message
> newsp.tndtayh546xnuk@mr-notebook...
>> On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:55:29 -0500, Doug Miller >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> In article <op.tncg7aa946xnuk@mr-notebook>, mrichards
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset
>>>> the
>>>> codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
>>>
>>> Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things
>>> too,
>>> things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the
>>> stereo).
>>>
>>> The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read
>>> them.
>>> You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.
>>
>> Thanks. I'll stop by and have them do that.
>> MR
>
>



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Glad to help! I've done these sort of wire chaffing repairs in the past. I
usually am a bit more thorough in that I either apply a shrink sleeve over
the chaffed wires (requires cutting and splicing) or apply a good coating of
RTV, let it dry for a few hours and then tape over. Degrease wires before
using RTV or it won't stick. Tape has a way of coming off and letting in
grunge that will rot the conductors. Granted that I'm a bit obsessive but I
used to work on Military electonics. Would really mess with your day if some
of that stuff went wrong.

Oppie


"mrichards" > wrote in message
newsp.tnd4srsf46xnuk@mr-notebook...
I checked the wires on no. 3 injector which the code pointed to and all
looked good from the top end. I noticed that the wires were resting on
top of a bolt that has sharp edges which is on the fuel rail. After
removing the elect. plug from the injector and looking under the wires I
found a worn/burned spot in one of the wires and looked as if it had been
arcing. Taped the wires good and put some rtv on bolt head to smooth it
over.
I guess that was what was causing the misfire and gas smell and perhaps
the drop in gas milage.
Many thanks for the direction Oppie. Saved me a ton of time and money.
I do have a set of manuals and use them for disassembly etc. mostly, but
have not helped me much on trouble shooting. Can't beat experience when
it comes to that.
Many thanks again,
MR



On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 11:49:21 -0500, Oppie > wrote:

> Simple ECU code reset on the L-series is by pulling the Controls B+ fuse
> for
> 10 seconds from the uhfp (Under hood fuse panel). Can't say if that will
> also work with any other model.
> Harbor freight has a very simple code reader that will also reset codes
> http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...rd=code+reader
>
> I'd prefer a scan tool that reads data streams but those are **much**
> more
> expensive. Still at the prices for the simple readers (About cost of a
> tank
> of gas), are within everybody's reach.
>
> btw - if you are 'allergic' to repair shops, by all means obtain a shop
> manual for your vehicle or buy a subscription to www.Alldata.com Both are
> well worth the investment and even if you don't do your own repairs,
> gives
> you enough background to make informed choices.
>
> Oppie
>
> "mrichards" > wrote in message
> newsp.tndtayh546xnuk@mr-notebook...
>> On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:55:29 -0500, Doug Miller >
>> wrote:
>>
>>> In article <op.tncg7aa946xnuk@mr-notebook>, mrichards
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset
>>>> the
>>>> codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
>>>
>>> Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things
>>> too,
>>> things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the
>>> stereo).
>>>
>>> The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to read
>>> them.
>>> You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.
>>
>> Thanks. I'll stop by and have them do that.
>> MR
>
>



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Right on the elec. connections. I have had a some real PIA elect.
failures on travel trailer brakes. I used the shrink tubing and rtv on
those when I did a complete brake job.
I would have done a little better job on the injector wires, but there was
not very much wire length from wiring harness to plug on injector which is
what caused the worn spot in the first place. Also, no. 3 is a bitch of
an area to get to and could only work with my finger tips since my hands
are a little to large to get in that area without removing the throttle
cable.
Many thanks again for your input.
MR



On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 17:07:38 -0500, Oppie > wrote:

> Glad to help! I've done these sort of wire chaffing repairs in the
> past. I
> usually am a bit more thorough in that I either apply a shrink sleeve
> over
> the chaffed wires (requires cutting and splicing) or apply a good
> coating of
> RTV, let it dry for a few hours and then tape over. Degrease wires
> before
> using RTV or it won't stick. Tape has a way of coming off and letting in
> grunge that will rot the conductors. Granted that I'm a bit obsessive
> but I
> used to work on Military electonics. Would really mess with your day if
> some
> of that stuff went wrong.
>
> Oppie
>
>
> "mrichards" > wrote in message
> newsp.tnd4srsf46xnuk@mr-notebook...
> I checked the wires on no. 3 injector which the code pointed to and all
> looked good from the top end. I noticed that the wires were resting on
> top of a bolt that has sharp edges which is on the fuel rail. After
> removing the elect. plug from the injector and looking under the wires I
> found a worn/burned spot in one of the wires and looked as if it had been
> arcing. Taped the wires good and put some rtv on bolt head to smooth it
> over.
> I guess that was what was causing the misfire and gas smell and perhaps
> the drop in gas milage.
> Many thanks for the direction Oppie. Saved me a ton of time and money..
> I do have a set of manuals and use them for disassembly etc. mostly, but
> have not helped me much on trouble shooting. Can't beat experience when
> it comes to that.
> Many thanks again,
> MR
>
>
>
> On Wed, 07 Feb 2007 11:49:21 -0500, Oppie > wrote:
>
>> Simple ECU code reset on the L-series is by pulling the Controls B+ fuse
>> for
>> 10 seconds from the uhfp (Under hood fuse panel). Can't say if that will
>> also work with any other model.
>> Harbor freight has a very simple code reader that will also reset codes
>> http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...rd=code+reader
>>
>> I'd prefer a scan tool that reads data streams but those are **much**
>> more
>> expensive. Still at the prices for the simple readers (About cost of a
>> tank
>> of gas), are within everybody's reach.
>>
>> btw - if you are 'allergic' to repair shops, by all means obtain a shop
>> manual for your vehicle or buy a subscription to www.Alldata.com Both
>> are
>> well worth the investment and even if you don't do your own repairs,
>> gives
>> you enough background to make informed choices.
>>
>> Oppie
>>
>> "mrichards" > wrote in message
>> newsp.tndtayh546xnuk@mr-notebook...
>>> On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:55:29 -0500, Doug Miller >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> In article <op.tncg7aa946xnuk@mr-notebook>, mrichards
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I will check out the connections as you suggested. I will also reset
>>>>> the
>>>>> codes. I think reset is done via pulling the neg. battery terminal?
>>>>
>>>> Pulling the negative battery terminal will reset a lot of other things
>>>> too,
>>>> things you way not want set (like the theft-deterrent system on the
>>>> stereo).
>>>>
>>>> The proper way to reset the codes is with the same tool you use to
>>>> read
>>>> them.
>>>> You can get that done for free at most major auto parts stores.
>>>
>>> Thanks. I'll stop by and have them do that.
>>> MR
>>
>>
>
>
>



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