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If the tire's contact patch is BEHIND the point where the "kingpin
axis" would be projected onto the pavement, is this positive or negative caster? Since I (luckily) have one side where the caster/camber is presumably correct, can I fine-tune the match using driving characteristics? In other words, if the vehicle pulls/drifts to the driver's side, which side needs positive caster reduced (assuming equal camber and level pavement)? Thanks, Martin Martin wrote: > I recently replaced upper ball joints on a '96 Dodge 3500 (1-ton) van. > This vehicle uses pressed-in ball joints, and I replaced them with a > standard C-frame tool. After a few months, one of the ball joints > backed itself out (this is a poor design, IMO). I pressed it back in, > and tack-welded it in a few spots. So far, it's holding just fine. > > In order to do the weld, I removed the upper A-frame. Of course, I > didn't think to mark it's position (uses no shims, just slotted bolt > holes to adjust caster/camber) until I'd already loosened the bolts and > let things shift. > > I'd like to get the truck properly in alignment. If that's not > possible, at least driveably close until I buy new tires and have a > shop fine-tune it. > > I think I can measure camber with a plumb bob, and toe-in's a > no-brainer, but how in the devil can I measure caster? > > Also, is there an online reference where I can find the alignment specs > for my vehicle? > > best regards, > > Martin |
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