'96 Concorde Driver Door Switch Console Removal?

I left the driver window down about 4" and it rained all night. It appears that
the water got into the switch console and damaged the switch that controls the
motor for the driver window. I say it "appears" because I could hear a
"sizzling" noise coming from the area of the switch. My thought is to remove the
console and look at (possibly clean) the switch.

Any ideas on how to go about this?

Arnie Goetchius wrote:

> I left the driver window down about 4" and it rained all night. It
> appears that the water got into the switch console and damaged the
> switch that controls the motor for the driver window. I say it "appears"
> because I could hear a "sizzling" noise coming from the area of the
> switch. My thought is to remove the console and look at (possibly clean)
> the switch.
>
> Any ideas on how to go about this?

The prescribed way is to use a "trim stick", which could be anything
thin with rounded edges (no sharp edges) to slip between the edges of
the switch panel and pry it up without poking holes in the door panel.
Alternatively, you could remove the door panel and push upward from
underneath the switch panel to push the switch panel out.

The switches in those panels are very unreliable - they fail
intermittently with no provocation, much less with direct exposure to
that nasty chemical, dihydrogen monoxide, so be prepared to replace it
if your switch cleaning attempt is unsuccessful.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

Bill Putney wrote:

> Arnie Goetchius wrote:
>
>> I left the driver window down about 4" and it rained all night. It
>> appears that the water got into the switch console and damaged the
>> switch that controls the motor for the driver window. I say it
>> "appears" because I could hear a "sizzling" noise coming from the area
>> of the switch. My thought is to remove the console and look at
>> (possibly clean) the switch.
>>
>> Any ideas on how to go about this?
>
>
> The prescribed way is to use a "trim stick", which could be anything
> thin with rounded edges (no sharp edges) to slip between the edges of
> the switch panel and pry it up without poking holes in the door panel.
> Alternatively, you could remove the door panel and push upward from
> underneath the switch panel to push the switch panel out.
>
> The switches in those panels are very unreliable - they fail
> intermittently with no provocation, much less with direct exposure to
> that nasty chemical, dihydrogen monoxide, so be prepared to replace it
> if your switch cleaning attempt is unsuccessful.

One more thought - it could possibly be a damp/corroded contact in the
connector on the underside of the switch panel, in which case you could
demate, dry and clean the terminals of both connector halves, pack the
connector with a good grade of silicone (dielectric/bulb socket/brake)
grease, and re-assemble. However - your first thought is probably
correct - the switch is probably what's giving the problem.

Also try spraying old fashioned TV tuner cleaner (Radio Shack) into the
switches.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

Bill Putney wrote:
> Bill Putney wrote:
>
>> Arnie Goetchius wrote:
>>
>>> I left the driver window down about 4" and it rained all night. It
>>> appears that the water got into the switch console and damaged the
>>> switch that controls the motor for the driver window. I say it
>>> "appears" because I could hear a "sizzling" noise coming from the
>>> area of the switch. My thought is to remove the console and look at
>>> (possibly clean) the switch.
>>>
>>> Any ideas on how to go about this?
>>
>>
>>
>> The prescribed way is to use a "trim stick", which could be anything
>> thin with rounded edges (no sharp edges) to slip between the edges of
>> the switch panel and pry it up without poking holes in the door panel.
>> Alternatively, you could remove the door panel and push upward from
>> underneath the switch panel to push the switch panel out.
>>
>> The switches in those panels are very unreliable - they fail
>> intermittently with no provocation, much less with direct exposure to
>> that nasty chemical, dihydrogen monoxide, so be prepared to replace it
>> if your switch cleaning attempt is unsuccessful.
>
>
> One more thought - it could possibly be a damp/corroded contact in the
> connector on the underside of the switch panel, in which case you could
> demate, dry and clean the terminals of both connector halves, pack the
> connector with a good grade of silicone (dielectric/bulb socket/brake)
> grease, and re-assemble. However - your first thought is probably
> correct - the switch is probably what's giving the problem.
>
> Also try spraying old fashioned TV tuner cleaner (Radio Shack) into the
> switches.
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> adddress with the letter 'x')

Hallelujah! The heat from a hair dryer finally warmed things up enough to dry
things out and it now works. At least for now. If it does eventually go on the
fritz, I have you to thank for providing the great instructions. Many thanks for
taking the time to respond to my request for help.

Arnie Goetchius wrote:
> Bill Putney wrote:

>> One more thought - it could possibly be a damp/corroded contact in the
>> connector on the underside of the switch panel, in which case you
>> could demate, dry and clean the terminals of both connector halves,
>> pack the connector with a good grade of silicone (dielectric/bulb
>> socket/brake) grease, and re-assemble. However - your first thought
>> is probably correct - the switch is probably what's giving the problem.
>>
>> Also try spraying old fashioned TV tuner cleaner (Radio Shack) into
>> the switches.
>>
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> adddress with the letter 'x')
>
>
> Hallelujah! The heat from a hair dryer finally warmed things up enough
> to dry things out and it now works. At least for now. If it does
> eventually go on the fritz, I have you to thank for providing the great
> instructions. Many thanks for taking the time to respond to my request
> for help.

Congratulations! You still might think about spraying some contact
cleaner in the switches. However sometimes it's best to leave sleeping
dogs lie. 8^)

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')