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#1
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Is this compressor strong enought to spray rusprooting
I have learned to trust the advice of the people that comes here
and while not specifically car related, this is still somewhat related to cars. I am looking to purchase an air compressor to do odd jobs around the house. The worst (i.e. most intensive) job I can think of will be to spray some liquid oil-based rust proofing once in a while, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless. What should I look for in terms of power in a air compressor? I do not want to pay too much. I found this model and would like your advice. Will this be strong and powerful enough? I also found a 1 1/2 HP 2 gallons. Thanks in advance. 2HP Airco Compressor. Specs: a.. 2 hp Twin Tank Compressor a.. 2 hp - 4 gallon -2 x 2 gal. stacked tanks a.. Oil lubricated for durability and long life- triple the pump life of comparable oil-free compressors a.. Extremely quiet operation a.. Rubber grip carry handle a.. Includes air line regulator & gauge- allows setting exact line pressure a.. Quick-connect air line fitting a.. Tough powder coated finish a.. 115 volt, 60 hz, 13.8 amps a.. 3400 rpm a.. 5 cfm @ 90 psi a.. Maximum pressu 115 psi |
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#2
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Frank wrote:
> > I have learned to trust the advice of the people that comes here > and while not specifically car related, this is still somewhat > related to cars. > > I am looking to purchase an air compressor to do odd jobs around > the house. The worst (i.e. most intensive) job I can think of > will be to spray some liquid oil-based rust proofing once in a > while, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively > thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless. > > What should I look for in terms of power in a air compressor? I > do not want to pay too much. I found this model and would like > your advice. Will this be strong and powerful enough? I also > found a 1 1/2 HP 2 gallons. > > Thanks in advance. > > 2HP Airco Compressor. Specs: > > a.. 2 hp Twin Tank Compressor > a.. 2 hp - 4 gallon -2 x 2 gal. stacked tanks > a.. Oil lubricated for durability and long life- triple the pump > life of comparable oil-free compressors > a.. 115 volt, 60 hz, 13.8 amps > a.. 3400 rpm > a.. 5 cfm @ 90 psi > a.. Maximum pressu 115 psi For anything much thicker than water I would use an airless electric sprayer. Be extra careful of using air with anything flammable or combustible. Vaporizing a Class 3 oil is not good. IMO, 5 cfm is the bare minimum and mostly suitable for things like blowing up air mattresses, etc. Most good air sprayers, impacts, etc., will use 5-10 cfm at 90-110 psi. 3+ hp, 15 cfm, 30 gallons would be better suited to your needs. That usually means 220 volts. |
#3
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"« Paul »" > wrote in message ... > Frank wrote: >> >> I have learned to trust the advice of the people that comes >> here >> and while not specifically car related, this is still somewhat >> related to cars. >> >> I am looking to purchase an air compressor to do odd jobs >> around >> the house. The worst (i.e. most intensive) job I can think of >> will be to spray some liquid oil-based rust proofing once in a >> while, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively >> thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless. >> >> What should I look for in terms of power in a air compressor? >> I >> do not want to pay too much. I found this model and would like >> your advice. Will this be strong and powerful enough? I also >> found a 1 1/2 HP 2 gallons. >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> 2HP Airco Compressor. Specs: >> >> a.. 2 hp Twin Tank Compressor >> a.. 2 hp - 4 gallon -2 x 2 gal. stacked tanks >> a.. Oil lubricated for durability and long life- triple the >> pump >> life of comparable oil-free compressors > >> a.. 115 volt, 60 hz, 13.8 amps >> a.. 3400 rpm >> a.. 5 cfm @ 90 psi >> a.. Maximum pressu 115 psi > > For anything much thicker than water I would use an airless > electric sprayer. Be extra careful of using air with anything > flammable > or combustible. Vaporizing a Class 3 oil is not good. > IMO, 5 cfm is the bare minimum and mostly suitable for things > like > blowing up air mattresses, etc. > Most good air sprayers, impacts, etc., will use 5-10 cfm at > 90-110 psi. > 3+ hp, 15 cfm, 30 gallons would be better suited to your needs. > That usually means 220 volts. Thanks. Much appreciated! As you can seen, I know nada on air compressor. I will look int electric sprayer then... F |
#4
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Don't waste your money on an airless compressor.
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index Go to this link above to learn all you will ever want to know about compressors. What type, what size, airless, non airless, what undercoatring. Study the questions and answers and POST your own questions. I sprayed my own vehicle from studying this site. You need an AIR COMPRESSOR and a HVLP spray gun 80% of whatever liquid you are using will go on the job and NOT into the air. Denny B "Frank" > wrote in message ... > I have learned to trust the advice of the people that comes here > and while not specifically car related, this is still somewhat > related to cars. > > I am looking to purchase an air compressor to do odd jobs around > the house. The worst (i.e. most intensive) job I can think of > will be to spray some liquid oil-based rust proofing once in a > while, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively > thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless. > > What should I look for in terms of power in a air compressor? I > do not want to pay too much. I found this model and would like > your advice. Will this be strong and powerful enough? I also > found a 1 1/2 HP 2 gallons. > > Thanks in advance. > > 2HP Airco Compressor. Specs: > > a.. 2 hp Twin Tank Compressor > a.. 2 hp - 4 gallon -2 x 2 gal. stacked tanks > a.. Oil lubricated for durability and long life- triple the pump > life of comparable oil-free compressors > a.. Extremely quiet operation > a.. Rubber grip carry handle > a.. Includes air line regulator & gauge- allows setting exact > line pressure > a.. Quick-connect air line fitting > a.. Tough powder coated finish > a.. 115 volt, 60 hz, 13.8 amps > a.. 3400 rpm > a.. 5 cfm @ 90 psi > a.. Maximum pressu 115 psi > > |
#5
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"« Paul »" <" > wrote in message ... > Frank wrote: > > > > For anything much thicker than water I would use an airless > electric sprayer. I painted my fathers house once with an airless sprayer. (oil based stain, actually) Never again. By the time I was done my arm was about ready to fall off. A half gallon of paint or stain weighs a ton when you have been holding it up for a while. The only way to really paint is with a paint pot and an air compressor. Ted |
#6
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Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:
> = > "=AB Paul =BB" <" > wrote in message > ... > > Frank wrote: > > > > > > > For anything much thicker than water I would use an airless > > electric sprayer. > = > I painted my fathers house once with an airless sprayer. (oil based > stain, actually) Never again. By the time I was done my arm was > about ready to fall off. A half gallon of paint or stain weighs a ton > when you have been holding it up for a while. The only way to > really paint is with a paint pot and an air compressor. > = > Ted Yes. That would not be easy. Actually, I was thinking more like a small Wagner airless for $200. It sits on the ground and a hose runs to the spray head. Nearly all of the house painters that I have observed where I live use some type of airless sprayer. Few use air anymore, probably = because of the overspray getting on cars, & furniture, etc. |
#7
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You are correct house painters do use
airless sprayers. You can NEVER use an airless sprayer to spray a car. 20 years ago I used an airless sprayer to spray my car. After spraying the car I then spent 3 days with an electric sander, sanding the mess off and started over. A airless sprayer cannot atomize paint to spray a car or fine furniture. An airless sprayer is for rough work. Spraying paint on walls inside a house is rough work. You can put paint on walls with a paint roller. You can't paint a car with a roller. You can't finish fine furniture with a roller. If you have space for it an air compressor is one of the most useful tools you can own. Denny B "« Paul »" <" > wrote in message ... Ted Mittelstaedt wrote: > > "« Paul »" <" > wrote in message > ... > > Frank wrote: > > > > > > > For anything much thicker than water I would use an airless > > electric sprayer. > > I painted my fathers house once with an airless sprayer. (oil based > stain, actually) Never again. By the time I was done my arm was > about ready to fall off. A half gallon of paint or stain weighs a ton > when you have been holding it up for a while. The only way to > really paint is with a paint pot and an air compressor. > > Ted Yes. That would not be easy. Actually, I was thinking more like a small Wagner airless for $200. It sits on the ground and a hose runs to the spray head. Nearly all of the house painters that I have observed where I live use some type of airless sprayer. Few use air anymore, probably because of the overspray getting on cars, & furniture, etc. |
#8
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Denny B wrote:
> > You are correct house painters do use > airless sprayers. > You can NEVER use an airless sprayer to > spray a car. Yes. I completely agree. .. What a mess. The original post was not about painting cars though. It was about spraying "liquid oil-based rust proofing once in awhile, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless." |
#9
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On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 03:48:02 GMT, "« Paul »" <"
> wrote: >Denny B wrote: >> >> You are correct house painters do use >> airless sprayers. >> You can NEVER use an airless sprayer to >> spray a car. > >Yes. I completely agree. .. What a mess. >The original post was not about painting cars though. >It was about spraying "liquid oil-based rust proofing once >in awhile, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively >thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless." After a summer of spray painting my house with both technologies ( airless and air ) I can make some observations. Airless puts it on THICK. You can apply high-viscosity material in a short amount of time with airless. Pneumatic needs a thinned material, low viscosity, or it will run. I keep a very big piece of plywood around for a testing area so I know what my pattern is going to look like and how the gun will atomize. Pneumatic won the day. It uses very little material and does a great job of getting into every nook and cranny, missing nothing, and doesn't go on so thickly that it can run in rivulets down the surface of what you're spraying. If done correctly, there is very little material lost, and the job it does is way more aesthetically pleasing than airless. I will use Pneumatic for painting any day of the week over airless, unless I had a huge area to paint, like a BARN, and then I am going to use a commercial-grade airless that has a 5 or 10 gallon tank, the bigger the better. For something small like a car, air is the way to go. Lg |
#10
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The original post was not about painting cars though.
> It was about spraying "liquid oil-based rust proofing once > in awhile, as well as some oil-based stain. Yes you absolutely correct. To stop rust, first grind, sand or whatever the surface rust. Then apply Picklex to convert the rust, then spray on Zero Rust. http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index Check this above link for these products, and all the necessary info regarding them. Denny B "« Paul »" <" > wrote in message ... > Denny B wrote: > > > > You are correct house painters do use > > airless sprayers. > > You can NEVER use an airless sprayer to > > spray a car. > > Yes. I completely agree. .. What a mess. > The original post was not about painting cars though. > It was about spraying "liquid oil-based rust proofing once > in awhile, as well as some oil-based stain. Both are relatively > thicker then water, but very fluid nevertheless." |
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