67 GTA - best header option

I have a stock GTA- super clean and up to now all stock. I would like to
start building up the horsepower a little, nothing crazy, but peppy.
(suspension is already done)
Right now its the 289 w/2bb....I would like to add headers, carb, cam and
manifold. I would like to keep it looking stock.
Can somebody help me with a plan, I am not to worried about the money. I
just want to do it right and not de-value the car.

Thanks

Mike Poretti

Do what you want to it. Just keep all the old parts.

--
I was thinking of the immortal words of Socrates who once said, "I drank
what?".





"ZombyWoof" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:14:03 -0800, "Michael Poretti"
> > wrote something wonderfully witty:
>
>>I have a stock GTA- super clean and up to now all stock. I would like to
>>start building up the horsepower a little, nothing crazy, but peppy.
>>(suspension is already done)
>>Right now its the 289 w/2bb....I would like to add headers, carb, cam and
>>manifold. I would like to keep it looking stock.
>>Can somebody help me with a plan, I am not to worried about the money. I
>>just want to do it right and not de-value the car.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Mike Poretti
>>
> If it is currently stock & straight, anything you do to it will begin
> to devaluate it. If you have to do anything, pull the original engine
> and put it up on a stand and then build a second engine to drop in.
> That way you can always return it to total stock.
>
> --
>
> "Maybe worshiping the cross and the painful death rather
> than the well lived life really has distorted our sense
> of who we are and what life is about." -- Author unkown

Equal length long tube headers will give you the most hp benefit.
They are a tight fit tho.

You might consider making mods like were done "back in the day"

Shelby style Tri Y headers would be one way to go down that path.

I would also change intake manifold and carburetor.
An Edelbrock Performer RPM or a vintage Edelbrock F4B would be a good
choice.
You could get an Autolite 4100 carb from Pony Carburetors. It is the stock
Mustang Carb and is a good unit.

If you want serious hp you could have your head ported. There is a company
in LA that CNC machines heads for a very reasonable price. There was an
article on them in Hot Rod magazine within the past year.

Erich



"Michael Poretti" > wrote in message
...
> I have a stock GTA- super clean and up to now all stock. I would like to
> start building up the horsepower a little, nothing crazy, but peppy.
> (suspension is already done)
> Right now its the 289 w/2bb....I would like to add headers, carb, cam and
> manifold. I would like to keep it looking stock.
> Can somebody help me with a plan, I am not to worried about the money. I
> just want to do it right and not de-value the car.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mike Poretti
>
>

Restomod shows are cropping up here and there (one coming up in Reno).
Since it's new, a means of classifying restos was needed depending on
level of restore. So, they are divided first by year groups (ie 64-66,
67-68, 69-70, etc). Then by the level of modification within the year
group. The first is lightly modded and which can easily be returned to
original, while the last involves cutting the body etc (ie removing
the top from a coupe to make a roadster). In the middle would be
things like conversions to rack and pinion, etc, but which can still
be turned back with a bit of effort but no "rebuilding".

If you are considering resale value, being able to put it back to
original is highly desirable. Save the old parts.

If your intent is to have a car to enjoy and to heck with ever selling
it (although unmarried drivers may get a shock after the wedding), do
what you want to make it "yours". And, to heck what others may think
of what you did as long as you are pleased with the end result.

Having said that, I, too, am saddened by the permanently disappearing
classics in their originally intended form. And by those classics
being hauled out of the USA by wealthy buyers in other countries.
These are our heritage as Americans.


On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:14:03 -0800, "Michael Poretti"
> wrote:

>I have a stock GTA- super clean and up to now all stock. I would like to
>start building up the horsepower a little, nothing crazy, but peppy.
>(suspension is already done)
>Right now its the 289 w/2bb....I would like to add headers, carb, cam and
>manifold. I would like to keep it looking stock.
>Can somebody help me with a plan, I am not to worried about the money. I
>just want to do it right and not de-value the car.
>
>Thanks
>
>Mike Poretti
>

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Our responses probably drifted through the ethereal ectoplasm of the
space time continuum and arrived at the same conclusion(s).

I am making mods to mine. BUT, mine are got comfort (like seats with
better lumbar support and a decent stereo) and safety (intermittent
wipers and 3 point seatbelts). Yet nothing has been altered in such a
way that it can not be returned to total stock. The exterior lines are
maintained so that to the casual observer, nothing looks different. No
high rise hood, no wings, air foils, blowers, Shelby quarter windows,
etc.

And at $3 per gallon if predictions are correct.... I'd rather have it
that way. Looking good, but still something I can afford to drive.

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:08:27 -0500, ZombyWoof >
wrote:

>On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:28:06 -0800, Spike > wrote
>something wonderfully witty:
>
>>Restomod shows are cropping up here and there (one coming up in Reno).
>>Since it's new, a means of classifying restos was needed depending on
>>level of restore. So, they are divided first by year groups (ie 64-66,
>>67-68, 69-70, etc). Then by the level of modification within the year
>>group. The first is lightly modded and which can easily be returned to
>>original, while the last involves cutting the body etc (ie removing
>>the top from a coupe to make a roadster). In the middle would be
>>things like conversions to rack and pinion, etc, but which can still
>>be turned back with a bit of effort but no "rebuilding".
>>
>>If you are considering resale value, being able to put it back to
>>original is highly desirable. Save the old parts.
>>
>>If your intent is to have a car to enjoy and to heck with ever selling
>>it (although unmarried drivers may get a shock after the wedding), do
>>what you want to make it "yours". And, to heck what others may think
>>of what you did as long as you are pleased with the end result.
>>
>>Having said that, I, too, am saddened by the permanently disappearing
>>classics in their originally intended form. And by those classics
>>being hauled out of the USA by wealthy buyers in other countries.
>>These are our heritage as Americans.
>>
>And that was the aspect of the question I was addressing. There
>simply aren't that many "unmolested" cars of all brands left out
>there. The ones that are demand a mighty hefty premium.
>>
>>On Fri, 11 Mar 2005 20:14:03 -0800, "Michael Poretti"
> wrote:
>>
>>>I have a stock GTA- super clean and up to now all stock. I would like to
>>>start building up the horsepower a little, nothing crazy, but peppy.
>>>(suspension is already done)
>>>Right now its the 289 w/2bb....I would like to add headers, carb, cam and
>>>manifold. I would like to keep it looking stock.
>>>Can somebody help me with a plan, I am not to worried about the money. I
>>>just want to do it right and not de-value the car.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>Mike Poretti
>>>
>>
>>Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
>>1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
>>Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
>>Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
>>w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

ZombyWoof wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 14:28:06 -0800, Spike > wrote
> something wonderfully witty:
>
>
>>Restomod shows are cropping up here and there (one coming up in Reno).
>>Since it's new, a means of classifying restos was needed depending on
>>level of restore. So, they are divided first by year groups (ie 64-66,
>>67-68, 69-70, etc). Then by the level of modification within the year
>>group. The first is lightly modded and which can easily be returned to
>>original, while the last involves cutting the body etc (ie removing
>>the top from a coupe to make a roadster). In the middle would be
>>things like conversions to rack and pinion, etc, but which can still
>>be turned back with a bit of effort but no "rebuilding".
>>
>>If you are considering resale value, being able to put it back to
>>original is highly desirable. Save the old parts.
>>
>>If your intent is to have a car to enjoy and to heck with ever selling
>>it (although unmarried drivers may get a shock after the wedding), do
>>what you want to make it "yours". And, to heck what others may think
>>of what you did as long as you are pleased with the end result.
>>
>>Having said that, I, too, am saddened by the permanently disappearing
>>classics in their originally intended form. And by those classics
>>being hauled out of the USA by wealthy buyers in other countries.
>>These are our heritage as Americans.
>>
>
> And that was the aspect of the question I was addressing. There
> simply aren't that many "unmolested" cars of all brands left out
> there. The ones that are demand a mighty hefty premium.

Not all of us view our Mustangs as commodity investments, and you're
being too strict with your recommendations. The idea he wants to
increase its performance indicates plans to drive it, not sell it. As
long as he keeps the old parts, and doesn't cut the car up, he can add
100hp to it if he wants without de-valuing the car a single bit. This
is more true of vintage Mustangs than most any other vintage car, in fact.


--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65