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98 SL2 Automatic Transmission Hesitates Shifting Into Reverse
CW - Are you also getting some harsh shifting?
Nassau or Suffolk? (Don't go to Hempstead - major league crooks!) |
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#12
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98 SL2 Automatic Transmission Hesitates Shifting Into Reverse
We've heard a clunking/banging sound when changing gears for a long
time. Now we have problems when switching into reverse (there is a delay), and there is a whirring noise coming from the transmission sometimes while driving. I can go anywhere in Nassau or Suffolk. I read through this usenet group and one post suggested it may be a loose input shaft nut. I'm currently being quoted $600+ just to tighten a loose input shaft nut and change the transmission fluid. The shop told me they have to open the transmission case to do the work. Any advice would be appreciated. Chuck wrote: > CW - Are you also getting some harsh shifting? > Nassau or Suffolk? (Don't go to Hempstead - major league crooks!) |
#13
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98 SL2 Automatic Transmission Hesitates Shifting Into Reverse
We've heard a clunking/banging sound when changing gears for a long
time. Now we have problems when switching into reverse (there is a delay), and there is a whirring noise coming from the transmission sometimes while driving. I can go anywhere in Nassau or Suffolk. I read through this usenet group and one post suggested it may be a loose input shaft nut. I'm currently being quoted $600+ just to tighten a loose input shaft nut and change the transmission fluid. The shop told me they have to open the transmission case to do the work. Any advice would be appreciated. |
#14
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98 SL2 Automatic Transmission Hesitates Shifting Into Reverse
I don't remember any noise when it shifted, just a rather harsh jolt -
I think from 2nd to 3rd. And the harsh shift and delayed/no reverse came on at the same time and all of a sudden. After doing the job myself, $600 doesn't seem all THAT unreasonable. The tranny doesn't have to come out and the only parts required are the nut (it has to be replaced, not just tightened) and the cover gasket, but the job pretty much sucks. You have to lower the engine a tad to get at the top cover bolt. You have to break the ball joint to swing the strut out of the way a little. (There's a tube attached to the cover which requires the cover to be pulled straight away from the engine quite a bit - the strut is in the way). You need a thin-wall 23mm socket to get at the nut. If you have experience and are a fast worker, I have to believe it's at least a 3 hr. job. |
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