Broken Spark Plug - Need help fast

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 21:01:37 -0500, jbarts >
wrote:

>1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
>I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
>but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
>What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
>move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
>will let it sit overnight.
>
>Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
>I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
>If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
>fix?
>
>
>Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
>checking the thread hourly!
>
>
>Thanks!

I think you mean the plug broke in half where the threads are left in
the block along with the bottom part?

This is time for REAL penetrating oil, NOT WD40, which is not a REAL
penetrating oil.

Use _real_ penetrating oil. Everybody owns at least some. Then let
it soak, go out and give it a tap every now and then with a hammer and
a screwdriver, and add MORE "Real" penetrating oil. Repeat as often
as necessary until you've loosened the corrosion enough to get it out
of the spark plug hole.

Lg

You might be able to use some JB Weld and glue a nut on top of the busted
piece and get another grip on it with a socket. If not, drill and pray the
extractor doesn't snap off. Craftsman had a left-handed drill and easy-out
combo that works but I don't know if it's large enough for a spark plug.

B~

"jbarts" > wrote in message
...
> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> will let it sit overnight.
>
> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> fix?
>
>
> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> checking the thread hourly!
>
>
> Thanks!
FIRST: Try another plug to ensure it's not too hard to saw. If it is
indeed sawable, buy a GOOD blade to do the work.
If it comes down to it, grind down a hacksaw blade's width to access the
hole in the middle of the plug. Wrap a rag around the other end for a
handle, saw OUT TO the head-threads, do another section about 1/8-1/4-inch
away, remove the sawed section(chisel?), then it should have enough freedom
to be removed.
Hope u don't have to revert to this--but it may work if all else fails.
s

jbarts wrote:
> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> will let it sit overnight.
>
> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> fix?
>
>
> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> checking the thread hourly!
>
>
> Thanks!

I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. You
should use a six sided socket rather than 12. Is the engine good and
cold, or was it still a little worm when you started to pull the
plugs? Let it soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it
with the impact socket (six sided). Before you go to extremes and
try to drill it out, try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an
old 3/4 inch bolt as a punch, then put the impact socket back on it.
If all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the
hole with a "Helicoil repair kit".

BILL P.

William. Boyd wrote:
> jbarts wrote:
>
>> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>>
>> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
>> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>>
>> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
>> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
>> will let it sit overnight.
>>
>> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>>
>> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>>
>> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
>> fix?
>>
>> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
>> checking the thread hourly!
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>
>
> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. You should
> use a six sided socket rather than 12. Is the engine good and cold, or
> was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs? Let it
> soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact
> socket (six sided). Before you go to extremes and try to drill it out,
> try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a
> punch, then put the impact socket back on it.
> If all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the hole
> with a "Helicoil repair kit".
>
> BILL P.
Did anyone say use and "easy out" yet ?

Its a reversed threaded little gizmo that can get in the center. you use
a wrench on it and works like a charm.

So far I have not seen anyone suggest heat. Often applying heat, as with a
torch, will make the metal expand and subsequent cooling will break the
metals apart. Of course you need access to a real torch. You could possibly
drive the vehicle to somewhere there is such equipment. After you get the
threads out you have to wonder about what may have fallen into the cylinder,
how you can check and how you can get any foreign material out of there?
Phyloe


"jbarts" > wrote in message
...
> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>
> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>
> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> will let it sit overnight.
>
> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>
> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>
> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> fix?
>
>
> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> checking the thread hourly!
>
>
> Thanks!

"ed" > wrote in message
news:b0ZJd.1429$fT4.826@trnddc09...
> William. Boyd wrote:
> > jbarts wrote:
> >
> >> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
> >>
> >> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
> >> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
> >>
> >> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
> >> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
> >> will let it sit overnight.
> >>
> >> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
> >>
> >> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
> >>
> >> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
> >> fix?
> >>
> >> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
> >> checking the thread hourly!
> >>
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >
> >
> > I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better. You should
> > use a six sided socket rather than 12. Is the engine good and cold, or
> > was it still a little worm when you started to pull the plugs? Let it
> > soak all night and you can get a lot more torque on it with the impact
> > socket (six sided). Before you go to extremes and try to drill it out,
> > try a couple of good raps with a hammer and an old 3/4 inch bolt as a
> > punch, then put the impact socket back on it.
> > If all that fails they can drill it out and put new threads in the hole
> > with a "Helicoil repair kit".
> >
> > BILL P.
> Did anyone say use and "easy out" yet ?
>
> Its a reversed threaded little gizmo that can get in the center. you use
> a wrench on it and works like a charm.

I've used an easy-out a number of times. Penetrating oil might get the
broken part a bit loose but you still need to turn it .
I have never used penetrating oil (for this problem) and have had excellent
results with an easy-out.

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 22:23:51 -0600, "Phyloe" >
wrote:

> So far I have not seen anyone suggest heat. Often applying heat, as with a
>torch, will make the metal expand and subsequent cooling will break the
>metals apart. Of course you need access to a real torch. You could possibly
>drive the vehicle to somewhere there is such equipment. After you get the
>threads out you have to wonder about what may have fallen into the cylinder,
>how you can check and how you can get any foreign material out of there?
>Phyloe

What I would do? I have a small vacuum cleaner, it is the carry
around portable thing but it plugs into the wall for power.

I would use duct tape and put a hose on the nozzle so it would fit
inside the cylinder through the spark plug hose, and I would vacuum
the cylinder, keeping in mind that if it is a slant engine, parts will
fall toward the center of the engine.

You really need a bore scope to see inside, and nobody I know has the
$ to afford one of those. Short of that, I would do the above,
pulling out the hose often to see if something is attached to it that
is too large to go through the tube.

Lg


>"jbarts" > wrote in message
.. .
>> 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9l engine
>>
>> I was changing my plugs and one broke. The "body" of the plug came out
>> but the part that bottom part screws into the head is still in there.
>>
>> What can I do to remove this, I've tried my tap and die, I could not
>> move it. Out of all the plugs it had the most rust. I've WD40 it and
>> will let it sit overnight.
>>
>> Is there anything I can buy that will help me take this out?
>>
>> I'm guessing it might have to be drilled out.
>>
>> If I have to take it to a shop, what will something like this cost to
>> fix?
>>
>>
>> Please reply here, and if you need more info just ask, I'll be
>> checking the thread hourly!
>>
>>
>> Thanks!
>

DON'T try this trick on aluminum heads!!!
A chisel will cost you a new head.
Pay particular attention to not getting chips in the cylinder, that
WILL destroy your engine. Best to remove the head.

Joe


On Wed, 26 Jan 2005 21:43:06 -0500, "sdlomi2" >
wrote:

>>
>> Thanks!
> FIRST: Try another plug to ensure it's not too hard to saw. If it is
>indeed sawable, buy a GOOD blade to do the work.
> If it comes down to it, grind down a hacksaw blade's width to access the
>hole in the middle of the plug. Wrap a rag around the other end for a
>handle, saw OUT TO the head-threads, do another section about 1/8-1/4-inch
>away, remove the sawed section(chisel?), then it should have enough freedom
>to be removed.
> Hope u don't have to revert to this--but it may work if all else fails.
>s
>

On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, William. Boyd wrote:

> I use Liquid wrench, WD is good but the LW is a tad better.

Both of them are silly kid stuff. Kroil and Mopar 3418039 are the only two
penetrating fluids worth messing with.