1983 533i Clutch Pedal / Brake Light

I need some help, please. My '83 533i (166k) runs really well. Just
had it tuned, replaced brake pads and rotors as they were in tough
shape. Had all fluids checked and changed.

Three issues that I can't seem to resolve:
(1) Brake light comes on even though the brakes were checked and brand
new. Fluid level is fine and as stated, brakes and rotors are new.

(2) Oil light comes on and "pyramid" light on dash is steady. I think
the oil light triggers this triangular warning light - so probably same
issue. There are five quarts of new oil in car. Mechanic suggested it
could be bad switch located under oil pan.?

(3) Most troubling ... the clutch pedal "sticks" to the floor on
occasion. If I lift it back up, it is fine until the next time it
sticks to floor. I asked mechanic to "bleed" the clutch, but he told
me that the bleed valve was pretty well gunked up with rust and would
need to be tapped. His instructions were that there was plenty of
hydraulic pressure in the line such that the pedal should not be
sticking. It still is, however, even after complete check and change
of fluids.

Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

> wrote
>I need some help, please. My '83 533i (166k) runs really well. Just
> had it tuned, replaced brake pads and rotors as they were in tough
> shape. Had all fluids checked and changed.
>
> Three issues that I can't seem to resolve:
> (1) Brake light comes on even though the brakes were checked and brand
> new. Fluid level is fine and as stated, brakes and rotors are new.
>
> (2) Oil light comes on and "pyramid" light on dash is steady. I think
> the oil light triggers this triangular warning light - so probably same
> issue. There are five quarts of new oil in car. Mechanic suggested it
> could be bad switch located under oil pan.?
>
> (3) Most troubling ... the clutch pedal "sticks" to the floor on
> occasion. If I lift it back up, it is fine until the next time it
> sticks to floor. I asked mechanic to "bleed" the clutch, but he told
> me that the bleed valve was pretty well gunked up with rust and would
> need to be tapped. His instructions were that there was plenty of
> hydraulic pressure in the line such that the pedal should not be
> sticking. It still is, however, even after complete check and change
> of fluids.

The brake and clutch share a common resevoir IIRC. Probably one
problem causing two problems. My opinion, replace the clutch slave
cylinder - it's cheap and easy - and bleed the clutch. If that doesn't
fix it, the clutch master cylinder can be rebuilt or replaced.

Sounds like the oil pressure sending unit is toast - they're cheap
but I can't remember where it is left side under the intake manifold
is what I seem to remember.

Does that year have brake wear sensors? If they weren't replaced
with the rotors you need to do so - the person who did them should
have replace them. If not, have him do it - for free.

Floyd