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#1
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Please Help.
Hi all
Some of you might recognize this problem from awhile back, but recently I have had schoolwork and haven't had much time to work on my car. The starter solenoid was bad. I replaced the starter from one I got out of a donor car (which actually started). The problem is, when I connect the battery, the starter runs without the key in the ignition. I've looked over the wiring and checked it according to the repair manual. All the wiring looks correct. The only spare wires go to the AC and the alternator. The AC the previous owner sold and the alternator is not installed (needs brackets). Before I changed the starter, all the cars electrical worked and at the neutral safety switch. I received 12 volts when cranked. Please Help. |
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#2
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Please include year/make/model/engine size for a much better response
Basic gm starter cable connections are as follows: 1). Larger (6 gauge) cable goes to large post on solenoid = other end to Positive Side of Battery 2). (S) terminal on solenoid goes to ignition switch (Switch off = no battery power) or perhaps A/T switch 3). (I) terminal (if there is one) goes to Positive side of distributor. -- BBA °?° BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org "KingWalter" > wrote in message oups.com... > Hi all > Some of you might recognize this problem from awhile back, but recently > I have had schoolwork and haven't had much time to work on my car. > The starter solenoid was bad. I replaced the starter from one I got > out of a donor car (which actually started). The problem is, when I > connect the battery, the starter runs without the key in the ignition. > I've looked over the wiring and checked it according to the repair > manual. All the wiring looks correct. The only spare wires go to the > AC and the alternator. The AC the previous owner sold and the > alternator is not installed (needs brackets). Before I changed the > starter, all the cars electrical worked and at the neutral safety > switch. I received 12 volts when cranked. > Please Help. > |
#3
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Ford style remote solenoids have the same connections. Not sure about
the "S" and "I" terminals but they have the same functionality. The wire from the ignition switch "start" terminal goes to the small post closest to the battery cable post, and the ballast resistor bypass wire goes to the other one - the one closer to the starter power cable terminal. These were used on some other cars as well, most (all?) Studebakers from '56-64 used them, not sure about MoPars or AMCs. I think my old slant sixes used a starter with an integral solenoid, but it's been a while. The big wire from the alternator should connect directly to the battery cable post on the solenoid, unless your car is weird. Not sure what a wire for the A/C would be doing in that area, but some mfgrs. do strange things. Personally I would hook up *only* the battery cable, then try it - then start hooking the other wires up until you have a problem, then you'll know where to start looking. If the starter engages with *only* the battery hooked up, then the solenoid is bad. If it engages with only the battery cable and the ignition switch hooked up, then the ignition switch is bad or you have a short in the wire from the key switch to the starter. good luck, nate (spend too much time rebuilding old wiring harnesses... doing another right now as a matter of fact...) Billy Bad Assr© wrote: > Please include year/make/model/engine size for a much better response > > > Basic gm starter cable connections are as follows: > > 1). Larger (6 gauge) cable goes to large post on solenoid = other end to > Positive Side of Battery > > 2). (S) terminal on solenoid goes to ignition switch (Switch off = no battery > power) or perhaps A/T switch > > 3). (I) terminal (if there is one) goes to Positive side of distributor. > > -- > BBA > °?° > BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com > When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org > "KingWalter" > wrote in message > oups.com... > >>Hi all >>Some of you might recognize this problem from awhile back, but recently >>I have had schoolwork and haven't had much time to work on my car. >>The starter solenoid was bad. I replaced the starter from one I got >>out of a donor car (which actually started). The problem is, when I >>connect the battery, the starter runs without the key in the ignition. >>I've looked over the wiring and checked it according to the repair >>manual. All the wiring looks correct. The only spare wires go to the >>AC and the alternator. The AC the previous owner sold and the >>alternator is not installed (needs brackets). Before I changed the >>starter, all the cars electrical worked and at the neutral safety >>switch. I received 12 volts when cranked. >>Please Help. >> > > > -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
#4
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If the thing worked OK in the other car, it's probably not the starter.
If the old starter didn't do this, you probably don't have a wiring problem either. If you have a starter mounted solenoid, double check the battery wire to make sure it's indexed properly ( turned incorrectly enough to be hitting the start post on the solenoid) Good luck, let us know the fix. |
#5
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> cable post on the solenoid, unless your car is weird. Not sure what a
> wire for the A/C would be doing in that area, but some mfgrs. do strange A/C << never said anything about the A/C << where did that come from?? BBA |
#6
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The battery wire connected to the battery to the battery terminal is fine. Later on today, I plan to do the tests that Nat Nagel suggested. If it helps any, the car is a 91 caviler RS 2.2 liter with the starter mounted on the front of the engine. Thanks for the advice and keep it coming. |
#7
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Never mind. Today I found a big problem. The damage is too severe and
not worth the money or the effort. I thank you all for your help, and only wish I could have used it. |
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