alternator circuit question

Always try to steer away from modifications and seek out the problem. By
modifing an electrical system to work may be ok, but you never no where the
broken part of the circuit is, it may be a loose or corroded wire that
could cause other problems, But how can you bad mouth/insult someone on
here that is trying to help you out, the people here can not see the
vehicle, they try to give assisitance due to past experience or because
thats the profession of the person,
Maybe Mom needs to place a Haynes manual under your tree? any way Merry Xmas
Glenn Beasley
Chysler Tech
"Jon G." > wrote in message
k.net...
> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
> voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
> on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
> and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
> what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
> him. Below is his reply to my previous post:
>
> =====
>
>
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:
>
> > I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't
> charge the
> > battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
> there's
> > nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it
> still won't
> > charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to
> the battery,
> > and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
>
> The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.
>
> > there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
>
> > L1: direct to battery, positive
> > L2: direct to battery, negative
> > c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> > c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
>
> What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.
>
> > I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
> > external voltage regulator.
>
>
> <etc>
>
> The way you plan to do it will not work.
>
> Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine
> computer and
> without causing any additional problems:
>
> First, pick one of the following regulators:
>
> Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
> NAPA Echlin VR32
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
> NAPA Echlin VR34
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof
> mount and
> convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
> NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106
>
> Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
> inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)
>
> Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no
> adjusting screw):
> NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128
>
>
> Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one
> marked "IGN"
> and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld"
> terminal
> on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the
> original C1 and
> C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to
> each other,
> small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).
>
> The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and
> the "FLD"
> terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field
> terminals
> on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
> connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is
> plenty --
> between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal,
> and mount
> the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this
> point, your
> charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
> regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
> warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.
>
> If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
> original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such
> that they
> can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.
>
> Close the hood; you're done.

In article t>,
"Jon G." > wrote:

> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
> voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
> on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
> and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
> what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
> him. Below is his reply to my previous post:
>
> =====

More like; you haven't a clue how that charging system works.

I've been doing that repair since before your car was new, and it
-does- work. It's saved many people hundreds of dollars in
avoiding having to replace Power Modules, SMECs and SBECs because
one little internal circuit gave up the ghost.

In article t>,
"Jon G." > wrote:

> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
> voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
> on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
> and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
> what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
> him. Below is his reply to my previous post:
>
> =====

More like; you haven't a clue how that charging system works.

I've been doing that repair since before your car was new, and it
-does- work. It's saved many people hundreds of dollars in
avoiding having to replace Power Modules, SMECs and SBECs because
one little internal circuit gave up the ghost.

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Eightupman wrote:

> Sounds to me DJS is not to blame for giving out advice on a forum that
> will in fact do nothing to benefit him, but you for taking it, or taking
> it wrong. Here's something you could try. Unfasten all of the
> electrical terminals in the charging system one by one, and then lick
> each one before reinstalling them. This will mysteriouly solve all your
> problems.......... Or you could just change the computer.

Eightupman: Betchya a virtual beer that even if our cheapskate buddy Jon
goes on www.car-part.com (searchable used auto parts nationwide) and finds
a good used computer for a price he'll pay, his faulty alternator will
cook the voltage regulator inside the new used computer in short order.

DS

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Eightupman wrote:

> Sounds to me DJS is not to blame for giving out advice on a forum that
> will in fact do nothing to benefit him, but you for taking it, or taking
> it wrong. Here's something you could try. Unfasten all of the
> electrical terminals in the charging system one by one, and then lick
> each one before reinstalling them. This will mysteriouly solve all your
> problems.......... Or you could just change the computer.

Eightupman: Betchya a virtual beer that even if our cheapskate buddy Jon
goes on www.car-part.com (searchable used auto parts nationwide) and finds
a good used computer for a price he'll pay, his faulty alternator will
cook the voltage regulator inside the new used computer in short order.

DS

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 03:53:35 GMT, "Jon G." >
wrote:

>The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
>voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
>on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
>and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
>what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
>him. Below is his reply to my previous post:
>
>=====
>
[snip]

You ignorance far exceeds the reference standard... you are hereby
presented with a Burridge Award with Gold-Leaf Cluster, and a special
addition for today, since it's Christmas, PLONK!

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004 03:53:35 GMT, "Jon G." >
wrote:

>The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several
>voltage regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood"
>on more than a supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous,
>and is convincing enough to come across as someone who knows
>what he's talking about. I'd advise anyone to steer clear of
>him. Below is his reply to my previous post:
>
>=====
>
[snip]

You ignorance far exceeds the reference standard... you are hereby
presented with a Burridge Award with Gold-Leaf Cluster, and a special
addition for today, since it's Christmas, PLONK!

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Jamie wrote:

> And i see nothing wrong with his reply.
> he obviously works for a garage or NAPA

Neither, nor. I just happen to have Echlin and BlueStreak catalogues next
to my vehicle service manuals in my office.

DS

On Sat, 25 Dec 2004, Jamie wrote:

> And i see nothing wrong with his reply.
> he obviously works for a garage or NAPA

Neither, nor. I just happen to have Echlin and BlueStreak catalogues next
to my vehicle service manuals in my office.

DS

Jon G. wrote:

> The fellow who gave me this advice could rattle off several voltage
> regulator models, but he was in it to "close the hood" on more than a
> supposed fixit. He knows enough to be dangerous, and is convincing
> enough to come across as someone who knows what he's talking about. I'd
> advise anyone to steer clear of him. Below is his reply to my previous
> post:
>
> =====
>
>
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:
>
> > I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
> > battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
> > nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
> > charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
> > and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
>
> The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.
>
> > there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
>
> > L1: direct to battery, positive
> > L2: direct to battery, negative
> > c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> > c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
>
> What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.
>
> > I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
> > external voltage regulator.
>
>
> <etc>
>
> The way you plan to do it will not work.
>
> Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and
> without causing any additional problems:
>
> First, pick one of the following regulators:
>
> Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
> NAPA Echlin VR32
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
> NAPA Echlin VR34
>
> Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and
> convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
> NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106
>
> Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
> inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)
>
> Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
> NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128
>
>
> Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN"
> and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal
> on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and
> C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other,
> small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).
>
> The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD"
> terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals
> on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
> connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty --
> between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount
> the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your
> charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
> regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
> warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.
>
> If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
> original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they
> can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.
>
> Close the hood; you're done.
And i see nothing wrong with his reply.
he obviously works for a garage or NAPA , in either case his
explanation looks valid...
maybe you didn't understand all that you read.
the Solid state one is what i would use.