Turn sig. conundrum -- ' 72 Dodge RV

'72 Dodge RV, 24 ft., 360 cu.

The turn signals -- either side, and both the inside turn indicator and
the actual turn signals outside -- do not flash, but instead stay
steady on when I try to use them.

I've replaced the flasher unit (and measure 0.2 volts on both sides).

I measure no 12 volts at the red wire leading into the steering wheel
column. (I've been told that the red wire leading into the steering
column is the "hot" wire for the turn signals?)

Where do I measure next to trace back for the 12 volts? (A friend
mentioned something about measuring at the coil?, the ignition?, and
the transmission? If so, I assume I am still measuring at the red
wire?, and with so many red wires on this thing, is there anyway to
KNOW that I'm measuring for voltage at the correct wire?)

[ It's been so long since I've had an auto with an acutal ignition
unit and KEY that I'm not sure what the key positions are on this Dodge
and which position I should have the key in when doing voltage checks,
although I made the above measurements with the engine on. From "turned
far to the right" to "far left," the positions a START, ?, off
(straight up and down), and ? ]

IF USEFUL, see list of wire colors leading into steering col., below,
please.

The emergency flashers work (with or without the turn sig. flasher unit
installed: are there two flasher units on this thing?)

1st group of wires (4) leading into steering col.: red; yellow; black;
yellow/green.

2nd group of wires (3): dark green; white; yellow w/ thin black strip.

Thank you, folks, for any help you might be able to provide.


Christopher A. Steele

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 wrote:

> '72 Dodge RV, 24 ft., 360 cu. The turn signals -- either side, and both
> the inside turn indicator and the actual turn signals outside -- do not
> flash, but instead stay steady on when I try to use them.

Usually a sign of a burned-out bulb. Note that it only takes ONE
burned-out bulb to cause the flasher not to flash, if you're using the
intended load-sensitive flasher. So if you've got two brake/turn bulbs per
side on the rear, either of them failing will stop the flashing. Since you
mention no flashing on either side, either you've got one bulb dead on
each side, or something else is the matter.

You've replaced the flasher, so that's probably not the problem. The
problem is probably the turn signal switch itself (behind the steering
wheel at the top of the steering column). Note that the turn signal switch
not only makes the front and rear lights flash, but also feeds or
interrupts power to the brake lights (sourced from the brake light switch)
depending on the position of the turn signal lever. If stepping on the
brake causes all of the brake lights to light up, there's nothing the
matter with the wires to the rear of the vehicle or with the lamps
themselves or their grounds.

It may be that you actually replaced the (working) hazard flasher when you
thought you were replacing the (dead) turn signal flasher, and all you
need to do is replace the right flasher can.

> Where do I measure next to trace back for the 12 volts? (A friend
> mentioned something about measuring at the coil?, the ignition?, and
> the transmission?

Smile and nod at your friend; he obviously knows nothing.

> [ It's been so long since I've had an auto with an acutal ignition unit
> and KEY

Er...huh? Whaddyer other vehicles have, a "Warp Drive Engage" button
instead?

> that I'm not sure what the key positions are on this Dodge

Starting from all the way counterclockwise:

1: Accessory. Turn signals work in this position.

2: Off. Key can only be inserted or removed here.

3: On/Run. Normal driving position. Turn signals work here.

4: Start. Use for cranking the engine.

DS

So amused by your reply to my not having had "an actual ignition unit
and KEY" in a car for so long ... I must address that first

My principal mode of transportation is a 65 Rambler Classic I bought
about 6 years ago. It never did have the keyed-ignition unit in it.
Under the dash ... is a toggle switch that I toggle "on" ... and then
there is this push button I push [ "I kid you not," as Jack Paar was
fond of saying ] ... and she starts up. So, I've forgotten all this
modern 'key" stuff, Daniel. And I could not help but laugh as I
explained this to you, so thank you for that !

The bulbs are all good.

There are two bulbs on each rear side: a single filament backup bulb,
and a dual filament brake/turn signal bulb. All filaments work.

1. I should have 12 volts leading into the steering column from at
least *one* of the seven wires, correct? (Don't have it on the red, and
forgot to check the others this morning, but I will.)

2. Do you know if there are two separate flasher units: 1 for the
emergency flashers, 1 for the turn signals? If so, I may have done as
you suggested: replaced the (working) hazard flasher when I thought I
was replacing the (dead) turn signal flasher. The "can" I replaced was
in the middle of the fuse 'box.' I spent a lot of time under there
trying to remove all the rust and stuff and may have missed seeing the
other "can," if there is one.

3. If, in fact, the problem is the turn signal switch, is there a
replacement unit or source you would suggest instead of the
what-I-am-sure is the outrageously expensive unit Dodge has? (They
wanted -- Cough! Cough! -- 48 DOLLARS for a replacement brake light
switch. My friends suspicion that the brake light switch might be "bad"
was incorrect, thank heavens.)

Thank you much, Daniel. I do appreciate the time you've spent trying to
help me solve this problem.

Christopher A. Steele

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 wrote:

> 1. I should have 12 volts leading into the steering column from at
> least *one* of the seven wires, correct?

Only when you're stepping on the brake pedal.

> 2. Do you know if there are two separate flasher units: 1 for the
> emergency flashers, 1 for the turn signals?

Asked and answered: Yes.

> If so, I may have done as you suggested: replaced the (working) hazard
> flasher when I thought I was replacing the (dead) turn signal flasher.

D'you think I would've suggested this if it hadn't been possible?

> 3. If, in fact, the problem is the turn signal switch, is there a
> replacement unit or source

Shee-Mar. www.shee-mar.com . Their website is garbage; call them directly.

> what-I-am-sure is the outrageously expensive unit Dodge has? (They
> wanted -- Cough! Cough! -- 48 DOLLARS for a replacement brake light
> switch.

That's their way of saying "Your vehicle is thirty-three years old, and
you are wasting our time. NAPA is down the street, guy."

DS

Daniel:

Thank you, Daniel, for the clarification to my questions and
quandries, and the Shee-Mar info (having just dropped by their site, I
agree with your evaluation of their site: will take your advice).

Christopher A. Steele

Y'welcome

On Tue, 21 Jun 2005 wrote:

> Daniel:
>
> Thank you, Daniel, for the clarification to my questions and
> quandries, and the Shee-Mar info (having just dropped by their site, I
> agree with your evaluation of their site: will take your advice).
>
> Christopher A. Steele
>
>