Leaky Push-rod Tubes - NOT

> How far are you willing to go to get your Bug and what year(s) are you
> looking at? Price range, etc. This is motivated self-interest speaking
> here as we (Scott and I) happen to have one or two or three (or more)
> good candidates for you to consider, if driving to Dallas ain't out of
> the question...

I'm looking for a good unrestored '64 ~ '67 Bug. Preferably something
with a good body and floor pan. Dinged fenders are ok, but the core of
the body must be sound. In particular, I not interested in anything
that has been in a front or rear end collision. Also, I am not
interested in anything that has been lowered or extensively modified
(i.e. had things done to it that are impossible or expensive to
reverse). Of course it goes without saying that I'll be looking closely
at the heater channels for rust. If I can trailer it or ship it the
motor does not have to be in running condition but I would give extra
credit for a car with an original engine (not a gotta have item but I
might pay a little more for it). Don't want a Bug with a sunroof (my
original had a sunroof that was broken and responsible for the rusted
floorpan). I live in north Alabama and around here I think what I am
describing is a 2 to 3 kilobuck car, maybe 4 kilobucks if you find one
that has been garaged quite a bit and in better condition. I might
consider going to Dallas. It is quite a drive from here. What would
motivate me to make the trip is either a car in better than usual
condition or if I just can't find what I am looking for in this area.
Like I said, I have really planned to get serious about car shopping
onec the shop is built, so I haven't done more than just casual looking
at this point.

How does this line up with the cars you have at the moment?

Scott

On Mon, 30 May 2005 00:56:08 GMT, Scott Sansom >
scribbled this interesting note:

>How does this line up with the cars you have at the moment?

How does a pair of 1965 Beetles for under $1000.00 sound?

One has a good title and no engine. The other has (what I take to be)
an original engine and no title. Between the two there is at least one
very good car.

Email me and let's talk. Don't forget to follow the anti-spam measures
and remove the numbers before sending your email.

I've got pictures and more can be had upon request.


--
John Willis
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

On Sun, 29 May 2005 15:49:41 -0400, "Joey Tribiani" >
scribbled this interesting note:

>
>"John Willis" > wrote in message
>
>
>> Framing is the easy part. Buy a good, big pneumatic nail gun and a
>> good saw and go to town. You don't need no stinkin' framers!:~) (Trust
>> me on this one. Most framers can't frame a square corner to save their
>> lives! Chris will back me up on this one, I'm sure!:~)
>>
>
>yes i will.....don't see some much as a string line on most jobs these days,
>much less *gasp* a level or framing square....
>

String line? What's a string line? I know what a string is and I know
what a line is, but whoever heard of such a thing as a string line?
Are you pulling my chain again?!:~)


--
John Willis
(Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

John Willis wrote:
> On Mon, 30 May 2005 00:56:08 GMT, Scott Sansom >
> scribbled this interesting note:
>
>
>>How does this line up with the cars you have at the moment?
>
>
> How does a pair of 1965 Beetles for under $1000.00 sound?
>
> One has a good title and no engine. The other has (what I take to be)
> an original engine and no title. Between the two there is at least one
> very good car.
>
> Email me and let's talk. Don't forget to follow the anti-spam measures
> and remove the numbers before sending your email.
>
> I've got pictures and more can be had upon request.
>
>
> --
> John Willis
> (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)


Sound interesting. I'll email you so you can send me some pictures.
Thanks for the response.

Scottt

"John Willis" > wrote in message
...
> On Sun, 29 May 2005 15:49:41 -0400, "Joey Tribiani" >
> scribbled this interesting note:
>
>>
>>"John Willis" > wrote in message
>>
>>
>>> Framing is the easy part. Buy a good, big pneumatic nail gun and a
>>> good saw and go to town. You don't need no stinkin' framers!:~) (Trust
>>> me on this one. Most framers can't frame a square corner to save their
>>> lives! Chris will back me up on this one, I'm sure!:~)
>>>
>>
>>yes i will.....don't see some much as a string line on most jobs these
>>days,
>>much less *gasp* a level or framing square....
>>
>
> String line? What's a string line? I know what a string is and I know
> what a line is, but whoever heard of such a thing as a string line?
> Are you pulling my chain again?!:~)
>
>
> --

of course i am!!!

Framing 'IS' the easy part. even if you dont have a nail gun. I did mine
with a hammer and nails and it went up in a day, including the roof.
It really not that hard.
And yes - those 'Framing guys' are just in it for the money - its not
their workshop - do they care if its not straight !
Not as much as you :-)

Rich




John Willis wrote:
> On Sun, 29 May 2005 04:34:20 GMT, Scott Sansom >
> scribbled this interesting note:
>
>
>>I'm trying man. The plan is 1.) Build Shop 2.) Buy Tools 3.) Search
>>for Bug 4.) Buy Bug. 5.) Repair and Restore (i.e. the really fun part).
>>
>>Step 1 is in progress (getting concrete poured this week and framers
>>hopefully show up next week.
>
>
> Framing is the easy part. Buy a good, big pneumatic nail gun and a
> good saw and go to town. You don't need no stinkin' framers!:~) (Trust
> me on this one. Most framers can't frame a square corner to save their
> lives! Chris will back me up on this one, I'm sure!:~)
>
>
>>Working on number 3 as
>>well. I'm not in the mode where I am going to jump at the first
>>suitable car, but if I find a car in really good condition at a good
>>price I would probably buy in and stick it in one of those self storage
>>places for a couple of months when I expect the shop will be complete.
>>Been wanting and planning a shop for a couple of years now and it is
>>pretty exciting to finally get it going.
>
>
> How far are you willing to go to get your Bug and what year(s) are you
> looking at? Price range, etc. This is motivated self-interest speaking
> here as we (Scott and I) happen to have one or two or three (or more)
> good candidates for you to consider, if driving to Dallas ain't out of
> the question...
>
>
>>Speaking of air compressors, anyone got a particular brand/model they
>>like. Right now the one I am leaning towards is a twin cylinder
>>Ingersol Rand 80 gallon vertical tank from Northern Tools. If I recall
>>it does like 18 CFM at 125 PSI. It's a twin cylinder machine but not a
>>true two stage (i.e. the twin cylinders are in parallel, not in series)
>>so it has plenty of CFM but it doesn't go to 175 psi like most of the
>>two stage compressors. I definitely want the high CFMs and I can't
>>think of an application that required over 125 psi. Any opinions on that?
>
>
> Air compressors...touchy subject. In our day to day work we use small,
> high quality (meaning you can't get anything near this good from Home
> Depot or Harbor Freight or even Sears...notice I kind of link these
> stores), pancake compressors built by Thomas. And I mean small. The
> smallest we have has about a 2 gallon capacity and the others are all
> 4.5 gallon capacity. One of the larger ones will run two pneumatic
> roofing guns (staple or coil nail). Two of the 4.5 gallon compressors,
> running together, will run two large framing nail guns being use
> continuously. We've used these specific compressors for nearing
> thirty years. They have Teflon rings and very good electric motors.
> The rings, pistons, and cylinders last and last. The motors never seem
> to wear out. In fact, they rate these compressors at 10,000 hours of
> use. That's eight hours a day, five days a week, fifty-two weeks a
> year, for five years. When one wears too much, we take it in and have
> the top end re-built for about a hundred bucks and get back a
> compressor that is just about as good as new. Brand new they cost
> about three times that amount.
>
> Just remember, most any compressor you buy from Harbor Freight, Home
> Depot, or Sears can be considered disposable since they will likely
> cost more to fix than replacing it would.
>
> Scott got lucky. A while back he bought, at a garage sale, a good
> DeVilbiss compressor. I keep harassing him to rewire the motor for the
> 220 it can handle and run a dedicated line to it from his service box.
> It just doesn't keep up while running on 110.
>
> So the considerations are, the amount of air you anticipate needing,
> plus a comfortable margin, the service you want it to run on (110 or
> 220), and how long you want it to last. As with many things in life,
> this is a case of you get what you pay for. High Quality will cost,
> unless you get lucky at a garage sale or pawn shop...
>
>
>
> --
> John Willis
> (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

> Got leaky push-rod tubes?
>
> Maybe you don't; not of the dick-head who built the engine forgot to
> put sealant on the washers in the valve gallery. (Another of those
> 'unimportant' details.)
>
> YOU are you're best mechanic. And if you don't believe me, ask Rocky
> :-)
>

On the subject of pushrod tubes...One thing that I found out the hard
way is the leaks caused by the 'red' pushrod tube seals that come with
the engine gasket kits. Mine started weeping literally within a month
of getting the engine installed. I pulled it back down and replaced the
seals with the white german ones and I haven't had a leak since. The
bit about sealing up behind the washers for the head studs is something
I have also had leak in the past, along with the two studs under the
rocker towers. The o-rings that were shipped with the gasket kit were
too thin to provide a seal between the base of the rocker tower and the
head. I reassmbled that area with a bit of sealant into the groove
where the o-ring sits and it's been dry ever since.

Chris

"Tweak" > wrote in message

> Take the topic back to a.m.s.
>
> Maybe ask Larry if the "gyroscopic limitations" of the short crankshaft
> on a V4 would be offset by a 24" front wheel on Mr. RC?
>
>
> --


hehe..tweak...i tend to not pay attention nor read alot of Larry's
posts....the man *does* love his bike though...come out more often
tweak...haven't see you since...hmm...a post on goldwing engine i
think?(into a vw or such)....

On Sun, 29 May 2005 15:49:41 -0400, "Joey Tribiani" >
wrote:

>
>"John Willis" > wrote in message
>
>
>> Framing is the easy part. Buy a good, big pneumatic nail gun and a
>> good saw and go to town. You don't need no stinkin' framers!:~) (Trust
>> me on this one. Most framers can't frame a square corner to save their
>> lives! Chris will back me up on this one, I'm sure!:~)
>>
>
>yes i will.....don't see some much as a string line on most jobs these days,
>much less *gasp* a level or framing square....
>

That's cuz they all use the BLING BLING laser levels. Get with the
times, dude!!! :-)

"Shag" > wrote in message

>
> That's cuz they all use the BLING BLING laser levels. Get with the
> times, dude!!! :-)
>

LOL..you don't even see those on jobsites....and any of them you see at
Lowes or on a tv commercial are about as accurate as the "eyeball"
method....