Stalls after fixed time

My Plymouth Acclaim (1992, 4 cyl, 127k miles) got a new fuel pump 2 weeks
ago, when it wouldn't start (after sitting overnight). That apparently
solved the problem, since it wouldn't turn over at all before the new pump.

A few days later there was a new problem. It stalled after running on the
highway for 20 minutes. Then it wouldn't turn over. After a few minutes it
would start for 2 seconds before stalling again. Then after cooling for 10
minutes it would start and run. This is like clockwork -- it always stalls
after 20 minutes, but only if running at highway speed.

I brought it back and they couldn't find the problem since they couldn't
road-test it that long. They said the hall effect sensor had a fluctuating
resistance, so replaced it. I had them change the oil since it was about
due.

But the problem is still repeating, like clockwork, now for the 6th or 7th
time. When it happens I'm always alone so I can't ask anybody to help take
a look at the engine. The codes are just 12-55, "battery or computer
recently disconnected", which it was last week when the hall effect sensor
was replaced. (How recent does it have to be to get that code?)


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Tom Del Rosso wrote:
> My Plymouth Acclaim (1992, 4 cyl, 127k miles) got a new fuel pump 2 weeks
> ago, when it wouldn't start (after sitting overnight). That apparently
> solved the problem, since it wouldn't turn over at all before the new pump.
>
> A few days later there was a new problem. It stalled after running on the
> highway for 20 minutes. Then it wouldn't turn over. After a few minutes it
> would start for 2 seconds before stalling again. Then after cooling for 10
> minutes it would start and run. This is like clockwork -- it always stalls
> after 20 minutes, but only if running at highway speed...

Is your fuel tank not able to pull in air to replace spent fuel?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')

Do you really mean 'it wouldnt turn over', or do you mean that it will not
start and run?

> wrote in message
. ..
> Do you really mean 'it wouldnt turn over', or do you mean that it will not
> start and run?

In the places I used those words, I mean it would crank but not start.


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"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
>
> Is your fuel tank not able to pull in air to replace spent fuel?

I never thought of that. This problem started after replacing the pump
which is in the tank. From where does it take in air?


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"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
>
> Is your fuel tank not able to pull in air to replace spent fuel?

On further thought, it takes nearly 10 minutes before starting again. The
air would have to be going in very slowly.


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On Tue, 31 May 2005, Tom Del Rosso wrote:

> > Is your fuel tank not able to pull in air to replace spent fuel?
>
> I never thought of that. This problem started after replacing the pump
> which is in the tank. From where does it take in air?

Via the pressure-vacuum fuel cap. Try loosening the cap so it's just
barely on, then drive around and see if it doesn't stall. If that fixes
the problem, then replace the cap. (Alternatively, you can just drive it
until it stalls, remove the cap and then try to start the car.)

how about this ... next time it happens unscrew the fuel filler cap to
allow some air into the tank, replace the fuel filler cap, and try starting
again.


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"Tom Del Rosso" > wrote in message
...
> > wrote in message
> . ..
> > Do you really mean 'it wouldnt turn over', or do you mean that it will
not
> > start and run?
>
> In the places I used those words, I mean it would crank but not start.

Ok. Vacuum in the fuel tank is the first place to look. Just loosen the
fuel filler cap and see if
the problem is solved.

I have also had electrical components that would fail within an almost
predictable time after starting and running an engine, including ignition
switch, main electronic control module, intermittent crankshaft sensor, etc.

So the thing to do is isolate whether it may be a fuel delivery problem, an
ignition problem, etc.

A squirt of starter fluid into the intake when it dies should tell you
whether fuel starvation is the
culprit.

A spark plug tester is fairly cheap, and will help you find out if you have
ignition when the car fails.

These may help you start on the way to a diagnosis.

"Daniel J. Stern" > wrote in message
.umich.edu...
>
> Via the pressure-vacuum fuel cap. Try loosening the cap so it's just
> barely on, then drive around and see if it doesn't stall. If that fixes
> the problem, then replace the cap. (Alternatively, you can just drive it
> until it stalls, remove the cap and then try to start the car.)

Thanks. I asked the mechanic about it, and he says there is another air
inlet as well, but I'll try it.

What do you (all) think about the hall effect sensor? The mechanic saved
the old one in case that wasn't the cause of the problem (which it wasn't,
whatever the cause turns out to be). Should I have him put the old one back
even though its resistance fluctuated, or defer to his judgement since he
saw how much it fluctuated?

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