disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?

I've got an ancient '84 XJ that broke a key off in the rear hatch lock
cylinder. How do I disassemble the lock assembly to extract it? I've
got the cylnder assembly out of the hatch (which was jammed for other
reasons). I just can't seem to figure out how to get the cylinder to
come apart. Suggestions?

I think you could have saved a couple of steps taking it to a
locksmith and let them pick it apart. Try turning the cylinder to the
open position and press that end plate you see in this picture through
some release hole or slot, in and it should slide apart:
http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/par...ailed/171.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

wkearney99 wrote:
>
> I've got an ancient '84 XJ that broke a key off in the rear hatch lock
> cylinder. How do I disassemble the lock assembly to extract it? I've
> got the cylnder assembly out of the hatch (which was jammed for other
> reasons). I just can't seem to figure out how to get the cylinder to
> come apart. Suggestions?

Well, given I posted a while ago about the hatch being jammed shut it
wouldn't have helped to go to a locksmith. At least not without paying
an arm and a leg to get them to pull the panel off, remove the lock
assembly and THEN pick it. It seems the door was jammed on some stray
bits of backerboard crumbs as well as being nearly completely dry of
any sort of lubricant. Both now solved. It's possible to bend but
just barely avoid breaking the rear panel to get to the striker
assembly. Anyway...

I got the assembly out and now need to remove the tumbler cylinder.
It's an XJ, not a Grand Cherokee and their hatch lock assemblies are
nowhere near the same. So thanks for the link but it's not applicable.
The XJ is a plunger-type, not just a usual turn-to-open style.

I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

> I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder
> to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?

Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
buggers can go all over the place and bend...

Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.

Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.

Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.

Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
down a springloaded pin that holds it in.

I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.

Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
it's a one-shot type unit.

--
DougW

Hi Doug,
These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
open position, to push it back in: http://www.billhughes.com/keylock.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O


DougW wrote:
>
> Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled
> though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit
> of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little
> buggers can go all over the place and bend...
>
> Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.
>
> Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal
> cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.
>
> Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out
> with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.
>
> Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can
> remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on
> the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in.
> There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw
> down a springloaded pin that holds it in.
>
> I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those
> are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another
> one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.
>
> Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized
> among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for
> you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if
> it's a one-shot type unit.
>
> --
> DougW

L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> These are what you're talking about, as far as the little cover
> that holds the spring loaded barrel cogs, and the position of the
> typical slide out locking pin, providing you can turn the lock to the
> open position, to push it back in: http://www.billhughes.com/keylock.jpg

Yep. Those are them.

Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use
powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone
sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.

Nope, that's not the lock assembly either. I've taken my share of them
apart before but mostly door or ignition types. That one turns the
bell crank. This one is the typical XJ hatch lock, it's the
push-button trunk style. It doesn't appear to have an obvious way to
remove the cylinder. No circlip, drift pin or the usual tricks seen on
most lock assemblies. I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow.

As for oil, this wasn't the lock cylinder that lacked lube. It was the
striker/catch assembly. Dry as a bone but I suppose that's to be
expected. I'm well aware of not using oils in lock cylinders.
If/when I get the actual cylinder out of the assembly I'm prepared for
the usual leaping spring risks. I only want to extract the broken tip
of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
being more than this old wreck is worth.

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

> ... I only want to extract the broken tip
> of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract.
> Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole.
> Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up
> being more than this old wreck is worth.

Those types of removals are tough. The only times I have done one
there was a hole at the back of the lock that let me push the old key
out using some wire or a toothpick. I still had to butt it up to the
old key or use a wire to hold the pins out of the way.

You could bend up a paperclip to hold the pins out of the way
and then try slapping the edge of the lock against a hard surface.
There might be enough mass to move the remaining key bit out.

--
DougW