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Any advice before I attempt my first type1 body off?



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 17th 05, 02:47 PM
Remco
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Default Any advice before I attempt my first type1 body off?

Hey Guys

I am getting ready to do my first body off repair on my 75 regular bug
as it needs heater channels and floor panels. I'll also do some work on
the frame, brakes, etc. I'll take my time and will not be in a great
hurry to get it back together.

Have read through several very helpful websites and googled the
subject. Watched the bugme video ad Nauseum, according to my wife

>From what I've gathered, these are the most important points to

remember, but would like to know what you guys think:

1 - Don't open the doors - ever! I could just weld one spot to make
sure this won't happen, or could just lock the door. Welding is more
fun
2 - Weld cross braces in the door openings before the body off is
attempted.
3 - Be sure to line up the holes in the floor panel/heater channels. I
figure I'll make a template out of plyboard and index it to something
that won't change to make sure nothing moves. Not sure what a good
common index would be.
4 - Learn to curse like a boatworker and blame stuff on your tools when
something goes wrong - got that covered

Should I put a cross brace across the width of the bug?
I'd imagine that everything will start flopping around when the old
heater channels are cut out. Or should I not worry about that? (It
would be a pain to work around this brace, but that would be much
lessened by cursing like a boatworker).

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Remco

Ads
  #2  
Old May 18th 05, 12:07 AM
tricky
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Default

My 1303 is half way through a body off resto

Floor pans are done

I took the doors off. I will fix a brace across the door opening before
I cut out the heater channels. (bugme dont leave the doors on ! )

I measured the hole offset from the tunnel to the floor pan holes and
made sure the new ones went in the same place. I will 'loose' fit the
heater channels and put the body on to line up the holes and door
opening (as in the bugme vid's ) before I weld it good and proper (thats
my plan anyway)

I dont know what shape yours is in, but it took me more time to undo
PO's bad repairs before I could separate the body. The heater channels
were welded to the floor all the way round !

Some of the 17mm bolts that I removed 'span' in the chassis, so I guess
I will have to weld new nuts to the body chassis points before I can
bolt the rolling chassis back up. (dont know if you have the same bolts
on a standard bug)

be prepared for more work than you think. I am just about to replace
the frame head. It looked ok before I could see it :-) .

other bits and pieces - like the front and back valences were full of
filler (bondo) etc.

Mainly rusted nut/bolts/bleed nipples etc... are what slowed me down.

Its not too bad when you get it separated and can see the task ahead !

Good luck, and if I can be of any help while the body is still off mine
(photos etc. ), just ask !

Rich


Remco wrote:
> Hey Guys
>
> I am getting ready to do my first body off repair on my 75 regular bug
> as it needs heater channels and floor panels. I'll also do some work on
> the frame, brakes, etc. I'll take my time and will not be in a great
> hurry to get it back together.
>
> Have read through several very helpful websites and googled the
> subject. Watched the bugme video ad Nauseum, according to my wife
>
>>From what I've gathered, these are the most important points to

> remember, but would like to know what you guys think:
>
> 1 - Don't open the doors - ever! I could just weld one spot to make
> sure this won't happen, or could just lock the door. Welding is more
> fun
> 2 - Weld cross braces in the door openings before the body off is
> attempted.
> 3 - Be sure to line up the holes in the floor panel/heater channels. I
> figure I'll make a template out of plyboard and index it to something
> that won't change to make sure nothing moves. Not sure what a good
> common index would be.
> 4 - Learn to curse like a boatworker and blame stuff on your tools when
> something goes wrong - got that covered
>
> Should I put a cross brace across the width of the bug?
> I'd imagine that everything will start flopping around when the old
> heater channels are cut out. Or should I not worry about that? (It
> would be a pain to work around this brace, but that would be much
> lessened by cursing like a boatworker).
>
> Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
>
> Remco
>

  #3  
Old May 18th 05, 06:56 PM
Remco
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Posts: n/a
Default



>
>
> Remco wrote:
> > Hey Guys
> >
> > I am getting ready to do my first body off repair on my 75 regular

bug
> > as it needs heater channels and floor panels. I'll also do some

work on
> > the frame, brakes, etc. I'll take my time and will not be in a

great
> > hurry to get it back together.
> >
> > Have read through several very helpful websites and googled the
> > subject. Watched the bugme video ad Nauseum, according to my wife


> >
> >>From what I've gathered, these are the most important points to

> > remember, but would like to know what you guys think:
> >
> > 1 - Don't open the doors - ever! I could just weld one spot to make
> > sure this won't happen, or could just lock the door. Welding is

more
> > fun
> > 2 - Weld cross braces in the door openings before the body off is
> > attempted.
> > 3 - Be sure to line up the holes in the floor panel/heater

channels. I
> > figure I'll make a template out of plyboard and index it to

something
> > that won't change to make sure nothing moves. Not sure what a good
> > common index would be.
> > 4 - Learn to curse like a boatworker and blame stuff on your tools

when
> > something goes wrong - got that covered
> >
> > Should I put a cross brace across the width of the bug?
> > I'd imagine that everything will start flopping around when the old
> > heater channels are cut out. Or should I not worry about that? (It
> > would be a pain to work around this brace, but that would be much
> > lessened by cursing like a boatworker).
> >
> > Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
> >
> > Remco
> >

> My 1303 is half way through a body off resto
>
> Floor pans are done
>
> I took the doors off. I will fix a brace across the door opening

before
> I cut out the heater channels. (bugme dont leave the doors on ! )
>
> I measured the hole offset from the tunnel to the floor pan holes and


> made sure the new ones went in the same place. I will 'loose' fit

the
> heater channels and put the body on to line up the holes and door
> opening (as in the bugme vid's ) before I weld it good and proper

(thats
> my plan anyway)
>
> I dont know what shape yours is in, but it took me more time to undo
> PO's bad repairs before I could separate the body. The heater

channels
> were welded to the floor all the way round !
>
> Some of the 17mm bolts that I removed 'span' in the chassis, so I

guess
> I will have to weld new nuts to the body chassis points before I can
> bolt the rolling chassis back up. (dont know if you have the same

bolts
> on a standard bug)
>
> be prepared for more work than you think. I am just about to replace


> the frame head. It looked ok before I could see it :-) .
>
> other bits and pieces - like the front and back valences were full of


> filler (bondo) etc.
>
> Mainly rusted nut/bolts/bleed nipples etc... are what slowed me down.
>
> Its not too bad when you get it separated and can see the task ahead

!
>
> Good luck, and if I can be of any help while the body is still off

mine
> (photos etc. ), just ask !
>


Hey Rich


Thanks for that! You've already done quite a bit - that's great! So
yours had the floorpan welded to the heater channel?! I can only
imagine what colorful names you used to describe the previous
mechanic..

I realize that the bugme video allows for the door to be opened -
you're right: maybe I can open the doors once I properly brace the door
opening. It will certainly make it a lot more comfortable, welding in
the equivalent of a large soupcan in the middle of summer. I'll see how
rigid it all is and then decide what to do. I won't pull the doors off
in any case, just to keep the weather out a little.

Mine is in pretty rough shape but has never been tinkered with so
that's hopefully a good thing. I've taken a sharp alw and pushed hard
against all surfaces. The only surfaces that were found bad are one
floor, one heater channel and strangely enough a spot hidden by the
passenger wheelwell (not anywhere near where water can be trapped,
which just seems weird).
I am sure more are found as the body is removed, though. I'd be
surprised if the passenger heater channel/floor pan will not need to be
replaced but I can't tell looking at it from the top. Somehow the
drives side is totally rotted out, but the passenger side looks ok.
Where the battery belongs also seems solid.
A friend of mine has access to a huge sandblast area at work (a train
could fit inside), so that will help when I start looking for trouble
using it.

Thanks for the tip also on how to keep the channels aligned. I'll try
to do the same thing.

Remco

  #4  
Old May 18th 05, 09:07 PM
tricky
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Default

The only other thing I noticed that was unexpected. The Body is WAY
heavyer that I thought it would be. I had to take the doors off to lift
it ! I kept the glass in as I am not doing a full respray. Maybe it had
alot of paint on it , under seal on the quarter panels and stuff.

Also it would have been easyer if I dropped the engine out 1st. Just
for easy access.

I have the body hanging from the roof joists about 2 ft higher than the
chassis. So its all accessible (just) and inside and dry :-)

I just jacked the car up, bolted some wire and hooks to the bumper
mounts (after rebuilding the rear apron) and let the bottom half back
down.

Only way I could think to do it on my own .

Rich
  #5  
Old May 18th 05, 11:13 PM
remco
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Posts: n/a
Default


"tricky" > wrote in message
...
> The only other thing I noticed that was unexpected. The Body is WAY
> heavyer that I thought it would be. I had to take the doors off to lift
> it ! I kept the glass in as I am not doing a full respray. Maybe it had
> alot of paint on it , under seal on the quarter panels and stuff.
>
> Also it would have been easyer if I dropped the engine out 1st. Just
> for easy access.
>
> I have the body hanging from the roof joists about 2 ft higher than the
> chassis. So its all accessible (just) and inside and dry :-)
>
> I just jacked the car up, bolted some wire and hooks to the bumper
> mounts (after rebuilding the rear apron) and let the bottom half back
> down.
>
> Only way I could think to do it on my own .
>


Hey Rich,
I've dropped the engine and stripped it down so there's 300 lbs less to lift

Was looking to rebuild it but some unexpected expenses came up so am waiting
until things settle.

Until then, I am taking the body off but first will remove the bumpers and
fenders.
I figured to do it the way Rick of bugme suggests: put the car on floor jack
and crank it up. Put it on short horses and drop the frame, hopefully
leaving the body standing on the stands.
I don't really want to suspend the body from the roof of my shop because
working on cars is only one use for it. It isn't used for parking cars but a
two car garage gets filled up pretty fast with tools
Might make a large dolly so it can roll in and out of the garage -- this has
worked for me for other projects. I found some nice air filled swivel wheels
that are perfect for this.

To support the body by the bumper mounts worked well? Do you have it hanging
from those mounts or do the mounts sit on the stands?
Remco


  #6  
Old May 19th 05, 03:16 AM
Mike64Bug
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Posts: n/a
Default

And if you have a digital camera...take pictures of everything, from every angle, before, during and after.
--
>>>Mike

'64 sunroof Beetle
'55 semaphore Beetle


  #7  
Old May 19th 05, 03:48 AM
remco
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Default


"Mike64Bug" > wrote in message
nk.net...
> And if you have a digital camera...take pictures of everything, from every

angle, before, during and after.
> --


Thanks -- good advice. I keep a digital camera in the garage for exactly
that purpose.


  #8  
Old May 19th 05, 09:55 AM
tricky
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Default

Dropping the engine doesnt make the body lighter ! Just gives you more
room under the back end.

I have the front end with the bumper mounted resting on a saw horse, and
wired to the roof as a saftey rope. The rear has no horse, mainly for
lack of room. I too have loads of tools (woodworking - table saw band
saw planer morticer etc. etc. as well as my welder comperssor ... ... )
and only a 15ft by 20ft work shop.

I used the bumper mounting bolt holes(without the mounting brackets) to
hang the wires from. The front was not too bad but I had to rebuild the
back end metalwork to make it strong enough. It wouldnt take the weight
before I did, but it is good now.

I have some fail safe stands between the car floor and body. They dont
support any weight but they will stop me from getting squished if
something gives !

Rich

  #9  
Old May 19th 05, 01:03 PM
remco
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Default


"tricky" > wrote in message
...
> Dropping the engine doesnt make the body lighter ! Just gives you more
> room under the back end.
>

Right. I was in "duh" mode just then.

> I have the front end with the bumper mounted resting on a saw horse, and
> wired to the roof as a saftey rope. The rear has no horse, mainly for
> lack of room. I too have loads of tools (woodworking - table saw band
> saw planer morticer etc. etc. as well as my welder comperssor ... ... )
> and only a 15ft by 20ft work shop.


That _is_ tight! I am impressed, Rich.
Mine is a two car garage but like to keep most of the shop clear. I have
several benches in place, but the business end of most tools (table saw,
shaper table, etc) I've kept higher than those benches so larger pieces of
plywood or lumber can easily be moved.
I have a small 16 ft wood boat (restoring that one) on a large dolly. The
bug is on car dollys. Everything can scoot in an out of the shop within
minutes. The benches, engine stand and wood stack on one side of the garage
are also on wheels, so they can also scoot out of the way.

> I used the bumper mounting bolt holes(without the mounting brackets) to
> hang the wires from. The front was not too bad but I had to rebuild the
> back end metalwork to make it strong enough. It wouldnt take the weight
> before I did, but it is good now.


Thanks for that reminder -- I'll have to do the same, make sure it is strong
enough.

>
> I have some fail safe stands between the car floor and body. They dont
> support any weight but they will stop me from getting squished if
> something gives !


You and I think alike! I hate being under a car without a fail safe and
might tie the front and back horses together with two 2*8 they'd hold it up
should something go wrong. This way the horse won't slip or tip either.


  #10  
Old May 19th 05, 02:43 PM
dragenwagen
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Posts: n/a
Default

I didnt really find that things were flopping all over the place when I cut
out that old heater channel. I left my doors on and closed, I did open them
to take pics, but I had the body supported pretty good (Especially under the
hinge) and the new channel was just C-clamped into place... to check door
operation. Note: do only one heater channel at a time!!! Once I started it
it was pretty straight foward and not really THAT hard to do. Lots of pics
how I did it:

http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen/heaterchannel.html

Safety 1st!!as the body does weigh over 200lbs... more with glass doors,
bumpers ect... Any questions... just ask... been there done that. Still
one heater channel to do

PICS Pics Pics can never have enough pictures!!! pictures tell me more
than reading about it!
************************************************** **************
dragenwagen
1966 Type I - Daily Driver
1969 Type I - Undergoing heater channel replacement
http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen
"Old VW's Don't Leak Oil, They Mark Their Territory."
************************************************** **************


>
> 1 - Don't open the doors - ever! I could just weld one spot to make
> sure this won't happen, or could just lock the door. Welding is more
> fun


no need to weld em shut!

> 2 - Weld cross braces in the door openings before the body off is

attempted.

You could... if it is a vert...definately! But measure them BEFORE you
cut!!!

> 3 - Be sure to line up the holes in the floor panel/heater channels. I
> figure I'll make a template out of plyboard and index it to something
> that won't change to make sure nothing moves. Not sure what a good
> common index would be.


Good idea.

> 4 - Learn to curse like a boatworker and blame stuff on your tools when
> something goes wrong - got that covered


hehe this is a must!!!

> Should I put a cross brace across the width of the bug?


I didnt.

> I'd imagine that everything will start flopping around when the old
> heater channels are cut out.


not really... the back seat support works


 




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