Shifter Bushing

Yep. I'm about to tear into it again to put the bushing back in its place. I
wish there was a better way to ensure it stays there.

From: "Dane Tyler" >
Subject: Shifter Bushing
Date: Friday, February 18, 2005 7:05 AM

Well first do the obvious...

Check the coupler under the rear seat and make sure its connected
properly.
Then, if that is ok, I would pull the shifter out and look at the
bushing. If the bushing fell out or something, you'll have to
reinstall...

Good luck,

Dane


Randall Brink wrote:
> This morning my new shifter bushing that I installed last weekend
evidently
> failed. When shifting into gear, I felt a jolt and suddenly the stick
was
> loose and sloppy as before.
>
> Has anyone experienced this? What happens to the bushing. Will it
require
> removing the rod again?
>
> --
> Randall Brink
> Author
>
> 1970 VW Type 1
> 1973 Mercedes-Benz W115 240D

Randall Brink wrote:
> Yep. I'm about to tear into it again to put the bushing back in its
> place. I wish there was a better way to ensure it stays there.
>
When i did mine i felt it kinda snap in place, i did not use the clip and it seems to be staying, it is not a daily
driver though.
David

I drive mine daily. When I installed the bushing, it, too, snapped in place,
and did have the retaining circle clip, which apparently did not help much.

I noticed an increased shifter stiffness the day before the failure.

--
Randall Brink
Author

1970 VW Type 1
1973 Mercedes-Benz W115 240D
"David" > wrote in message
...
> Randall Brink wrote:
>> Yep. I'm about to tear into it again to put the bushing back in its
>> place. I wish there was a better way to ensure it stays there.
>>
> When i did mine i felt it kinda snap in place, i did not use the clip and
> it seems to be staying, it is not a daily
> driver though.
> David
>
>

Sounds like the hole the Shift rod Bushing goes inot is elongated and
damaged. Causing a nice easy install then failure as it squeezes back
through,.............that is if it did not cut/break the bushing in
two.
There's a kit for fixing that too if you look around.

>I noticed an increased shifter stiffness the day before the failure.



Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply

MUADIB®

http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html

one small step for man,.....
One giant leap for attorneys.

If the bushing popped out because the mounting hole is elongated slightly you might try it again without the clip. If
the hole in the mounting bracket is worn too much the fix is to cut the tunnel open above the bracket and weld in a new
one. There's probably a "how-to" for doing that on a VW related website somewhere.

>>>Mike

Now that you mentioned it--after 35 years the hole could get elongated, and
cause the bushing to push through. I'm surpirised the engineers, who thought
of everything else, didn't think of that.


--
Randall Brink
Author

1970 VW Type 1
1973 Mercedes-Benz W115 240D
"MUADIB®" > wrote in message
...
> Sounds like the hole the Shift rod Bushing goes inot is elongated and
> damaged. Causing a nice easy install then failure as it squeezes back
> through,.............that is if it did not cut/break the bushing in
> two.
> There's a kit for fixing that too if you look around.
>
>>I noticed an increased shifter stiffness the day before the failure.
>
>
>
> Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply
>
> MUADIB®
>
> http://www.angelfire.com/retro/sster...IN%20PAGE.html
>
> one small step for man,.....
> One giant leap for attorneys.

They did, that's why there is a bushing there.

The hold gets elongated because previous bushing(s) have been worn out
or nonexistent.



Randall Brink wrote:
> Now that you mentioned it--after 35 years the hole could get elongated, and
> cause the bushing to push through. I'm surpirised the engineers, who thought
> of everything else, didn't think of that.
>
>

Yeah, they thought of that. And the bushing was their solution. It's a
wear-and-tear item kinda like your brake linings. A good maintenance
program involves checking it periodically and replacing when needed.
Unfortunately, the PO didn't follow proper maintenance and now you are
reaping the benefits :-(

This is off the top of my head but I think the repair proceduure for that
elongated hole is to cut out that bracket area out of the tunnel along its
weld seam and then welding in a new bracket unit that should be available
from somewhere....(I forgot where though).

Good Luck,
geoffe elias -74 Super Beetle



On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 22:19:45 -0800, Randall Brink
> wrote:

> Now that you mentioned it--after 35 years the hole could get elongated,
> and
> cause the bushing to push through. I'm surpirised the engineers, who
> thought
> of everything else, didn't think of that.
>
>



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

Wait, on second thought, I think the thing was spot-welded in place...


geoffe elias -74 Super Beetle


On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 13:42:32 -0800, geoffers > wrote:

> Yeah, they thought of that. And the bushing was their solution. It's a
> wear-and-tear item kinda like your brake linings. A good maintenance
> program involves checking it periodically and replacing when needed.
> Unfortunately, the PO didn't follow proper maintenance and now you are
> reaping the benefits :-(
>
> This is off the top of my head but I think the repair proceduure for
> that elongated hole is to cut out that bracket area out of the tunnel
> along its weld seam and then welding in a new bracket unit that should
> be available from somewhere....(I forgot where though).
>
> Good Luck,
> geoffe elias -74 Super Beetle
>
>
>
> On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 22:19:45 -0800, Randall Brink
> > wrote:
>
>> Now that you mentioned it--after 35 years the hole could get elongated,
>> and
>> cause the bushing to push through. I'm surpirised the engineers, who
>> thought
>> of everything else, didn't think of that.
>>
>>
>
>
>



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

you do not need to cut a hole in the tunnel. drill out spot welds (6
usually) holding hanger to pan. i tape old one to broom stick,or long
brake line(i keep a spare in my garage) and feed it into or out of
tunnel by way of front opening between tubes for front axel.i then bolt
it in without shifter and rosette weld new braket/hanger in place or
use 3/16" steel pop rivits if no welder availible. broom stick can then
be inserted in aporpriate place in guy that says"cut hole in tunnel."