Best aftermarket theft deterrents?

Can't go wrong with the trunk monkey:
http://www.milkandcookies.com/links/13212/

RAT

> wrote in message
ups.com...
> Hi,
> I had my '98 Civic EX stolen thursday night. The cops told me, based on
> the number of Honda's stolen in my neighborhood in the past month, that
> I should expect to never see it again. OK, so I'm starting over,
> probably buying a similar late 90's Civic or Accord. I realize that if
> they really want it, they'll get it no matter what I do, but what are
> my best bets in terms of physical deterrents? I'm going to use some
> sort of a Club-like device to lock the steering wheel and brake pedal,
> but I am looking for another layer beyond that. I've heard about
> "engine immobilizers" but I'm not having much luck finding any
> aftermarket products of that type. I know I could do a kill switch but
> I've been told that these are easy bypassed and don't do much (if
> anything) to prevent hotwiring. Any advice is greatly appreciated. If
> it makes any difference, I am located in the S.F. Bay Area (in case you
> have specific vendor recommendations).
>
> Thanks.
>

Old story but true (as far as CNN can report) from 12/111998:
<http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/11/flame.thrower.car/>

Go ahead, steal these cars!







"Ricky Spartacus" > wrote in
message news:1101374484.27Ej1LYa9a0zq+iD1fcA7Q@bubbanews.. .
> "SoCalMike" wrote in message
> > Terry wrote:
> > I like the negative ground to coil idea. is it really just *that* easy?
> > Wire from negative side of coil, to ground, with a switch in there?
> > It wont set off a MIL if the engine is started mistakenly?
>
> TYPE 1: Run 4-feet of plug wire from coil (secondary,) to switch
> (spst) then ground with normal wire.
> TYPE 2: Wire from negative side of coil (primary,) to ground,
> with a suitable switch and a *resistor* (2-3-Ohms) in there. YOU
> MUST include the resistor or you'll overheat and damage the coil.
>
> Yes, these kill switches are *that* easy with minimal stock
> alterations. Removing them simply means ripping the wires out.
> There should be no MIL/CEL since ECU doesn't detect
> spark. Example: R = V / A. 14.4-Volts divided by 6-Amps
> is 2.4-Ohms at 86.4-Watts. Find a suitable resistor. Notice
> that modern coils handle up to 8-Amps.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Old story but true (as far as CNN can report) from 12/111998:
<http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/11/flame.thrower.car/>

Go ahead, steal these cars!







"Ricky Spartacus" > wrote in
message news:1101374484.27Ej1LYa9a0zq+iD1fcA7Q@bubbanews.. .
> "SoCalMike" wrote in message
> > Terry wrote:
> > I like the negative ground to coil idea. is it really just *that* easy?
> > Wire from negative side of coil, to ground, with a switch in there?
> > It wont set off a MIL if the engine is started mistakenly?
>
> TYPE 1: Run 4-feet of plug wire from coil (secondary,) to switch
> (spst) then ground with normal wire.
> TYPE 2: Wire from negative side of coil (primary,) to ground,
> with a suitable switch and a *resistor* (2-3-Ohms) in there. YOU
> MUST include the resistor or you'll overheat and damage the coil.
>
> Yes, these kill switches are *that* easy with minimal stock
> alterations. Removing them simply means ripping the wires out.
> There should be no MIL/CEL since ECU doesn't detect
> spark. Example: R = V / A. 14.4-Volts divided by 6-Amps
> is 2.4-Ohms at 86.4-Watts. Find a suitable resistor. Notice
> that modern coils handle up to 8-Amps.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

One word: Rottweiler

wrote:

> Hi,
> I had my '98 Civic EX stolen thursday night. The cops told me, based on
> the number of Honda's stolen in my neighborhood in the past month, that
> I should expect to never see it again. OK, so I'm starting over,
> probably buying a similar late 90's Civic or Accord. I realize that if
> they really want it, they'll get it no matter what I do, but what are
> my best bets in terms of physical deterrents? I'm going to use some
> sort of a Club-like device to lock the steering wheel and brake pedal,
> but I am looking for another layer beyond that. I've heard about
> "engine immobilizers" but I'm not having much luck finding any
> aftermarket products of that type. I know I could do a kill switch but
> I've been told that these are easy bypassed and don't do much (if
> anything) to prevent hotwiring. Any advice is greatly appreciated. If
> it makes any difference, I am located in the S.F. Bay Area (in case you
> have specific vendor recommendations).
>
> Thanks.

--
Tp,

-------- __o
----- -\<. -------- __o
--- ( )/ ( ) ---- -\<.
-------------------- ( )/ ( )
-----------------------------------------

No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron...

SoCalMike wrote:

> <snip>
> something you can just have basic liability on, so you can save your
> money until you can move into a better neighborhood.
> <snip>

A better neighborhood? No such thing anymore. Many thanks to the
A.C.L.U. for their efforts to severely limit or stop the police from using
the one tool that worked... "profiling."

A few years ago thieves stole a '95 Accord parked less than 15 feet from
my bedroom. My "better" neighborhood didn't mean a thing. Oh yea, they
found the car a few days later. Parked in a "bad" neighborhood, completely
stripped. If Honda was still building that car, I could have shipped the
white body back to Ohio for remanufacture, that's how stripped it was.

--
Tp,

-------- __o
----- -\<. -------- __o
--- ( )/ ( ) ---- -\<.
-------------------- ( )/ ( )
-----------------------------------------

No Lawsuit Ever Fixed A Moron...