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#31
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R. P. wrote:
> "Abeness" > wrote: > >> Well, do remember that your power lock mechanisms will burn out much >> faster by leaving that unfixed. Then you could have to open ALL the >> door panels instead of just the driver's... > > > You might be right though I think it should have done that already in > all this years. Guess Honda makes good ****! |
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#32
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"Abeness" > wrote:
> Guess Honda makes good ****! Beats making bad ****. ;-) In any case, I re-read the text on that Web page I pointed out earlier and then I checked my copy of the official Honda Service Manual of that model and was surprised to see that there was no BLU/WHT wire there behind the door panel at all. Then I was also confused by the seemingly conflicting solution of the problem. First the author suggested that the solution was the grounding of that BLU/WHT wi "I asked him to ground that BLU/WHT wire. The locks stayed in the lock position and stopped trying to re-lock themselves. The control unit needed to see that lock switch input wire from the driver's door lock actuator go to ground and when it didn't see it, the control unit kept trying to lock the doors. When the lock input wire was grounded, the control unit was happy and the locks stayed locked." Then he ends up by another, more expensive solution: "The technician solved the problem by replacing the door lock actuator." So what am I missing here? Rudy |
#33
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R. P. wrote:
> In any case, I re-read the text on that Web page I pointed out earlier > and then I checked my copy of the official Honda Service Manual of that > model and was surprised to see that there was no BLU/WHT wire there > behind the door panel at all. Then I was also confused by the seemingly > conflicting solution of the problem. First the author suggested that > the solution was the grounding of that BLU/WHT wi <snip> > Then he ends up by another, more expensive solution: "The technician > solved the problem by replacing the door lock actuator." > > So what am I missing here? Sorry, Rudy, I can't be sure. My own understanding from a quick read of that post is that a ground on that wire is normally a momentary situation that tells the actuator that the door is locked, so that it stops trying to lock the door. Permanently grounding that wire may therefore prevent the actuator from functioning properly under normal conditions--it might never try to lock even when unlocked because it thinks it's already locked due to the ground. Since I don't have any experience with this issue, I hope someone else will respond. |
#34
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>Date: Wed, Jan 26, 2005, 4:01pm >(PST+8) From: >(Graham=A0W) wrote: >It was the fuel tank breathing in and the >pressure (vacuum) relief thingy caused >the sound. Hint - almost completely >close the back of your throat and now >breathe in with effort - you'll get a >similar noise! I want to thank you for this entry. The noise my Infiniti was making that eminated from the gas tank area appears to be what you offered up in this thread. When the noise occured at shut down, I opened the gas cap, heard a lot of pressure release and the noise stopped. Thank again for your input. It helped me figure out a noise that was bugging the crap outta me! |
#35
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"Abeness" > wrote:
> Sorry, Rudy, I can't be sure. My own understanding from a quick read > of that post is that a ground on that wire is normally a momentary > situation that tells the actuator that the door is locked, so that it > stops trying to lock the door. Permanently grounding that wire may > therefore prevent the actuator from functioning properly under normal > conditions--it might never try to lock even when unlocked because it > thinks it's already locked due to the ground. > > Since I don't have any experience with this issue, I hope someone else > will respond. That's all right. I'll talk about to my mechanic at my next scheduled maint. visit. In the meantime I wish I could figure out how to secure the left roof top rubber trim so the automatic car wash machine does not tear it down every time I visit there. If anybody has any ideas, let me know. Rudy |
#36
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ravelation wrote:
>> Date: Wed, Jan 26, 2005, 4:01pm > >(PST+8) From: > > >(Graham W) wrote: > >> It was the fuel tank breathing in and the > >pressure (vacuum) relief thingy caused > >the sound. Hint - almost completely > >close the back of your throat and now > >breathe in with effort - you'll get a > >similar noise! > > I want to thank you for this entry. The noise my Infiniti was making > that eminated from the gas tank area appears to be what you offered up > in this thread. > When the noise occured at shut down, I opened the gas cap, heard a lot > of pressure release and the noise stopped. > > Thank again for your input. It helped me figure out a noise that was > bugging the crap outta me! Glad it helped. Another for the FAQ, Tegger? -- Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter. |
#37
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Thanks for the post guys I have the same problem on my 94 Accord. I
purchased a door lock control modual from my local junk yard. It did seem to improbe the problem. However didn't fix it. The post with the blu/wht wire was ok. Still need to focus on the wiring what ever color that is connected on the drivers side door lock. I have connected and disconnected the wires. I am going to follow the wires. Tomorrow. I'll look at any wires in the driver door that are near the key lock. Thanks for the post. I'll add more to it and will be as spacific as possible. Oh the Dealer wanted $70 for new, $25 for junk yard modual??? csrbob |
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