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'66 mustang - help!



 
 
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  #11  
Old November 14th 04, 04:29 AM
Deadcarnahans
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>Wow-- that's even better, buying a car 10 years before it comes out.
>
>


You can save a lot of money by buying cars on the futures market...

DC
Ads
  #12  
Old November 14th 04, 04:36 AM
dbird
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rw wrote:
>
> Deadcarnahans wrote:
> >>I would never consider giving a car with such
> >>outdated technology and such primitive safety features to an 18-year-old.

> >
> >
> > All the car will need is a mirror on the sun visor for doing make up, and a
> > charger for the cell phone. Then it will be up to date for todays teen.

>
> Actually, Dead, you also need some speakers for your iPod.
>
> I test-drove it today. The rumble of the dual-exhaust 289 sent me back
> into time. The only thing that gave me pause was the brakes. Geez, they
> suck. Is it just because I'm used to power assist, or are they really
> that bad?
>
> --
> Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

  #13  
Old November 14th 04, 10:52 PM
David E Willson
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I bought a 65 FB in Tacoma in 1970 (5 yr old in mint $1000). My
runnin' partner a few months later was out looking and found a 67FB
never sold by the dealer. Dealer got it as a stripped 6 cyl plain
jane.... when Dale bought it it has 294 4v, custom paint, headers,
dual exhaust, custom wheels and skins, custom sound and custom
interior (not just upgraded to pony, but taken to a custome upholstry
shop). Total price.. $2700.... and still under factory warrantee
because all the upgrades were done by the dealer. Two weeks later Dale
had orders to Vietnam... said it was going on blocks until he got
back. Those specials deals are out there.... I just never seem to be
the one to find them... LOL... The 66FB I sold a few months ago cost
(rounded off) $14,000. The 65FB I later bought cost $9000 before
restorations (estimate is around $26,000 by the time I have it all
done).

But this owner has more luck than Henry Ford! Who wouldn't want to
find a car that will be a run away hit for four decades, a decade
before it even apprears as a portotype.....

On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 03:24:31 GMT, Dinsdale > wrote:

>On 14 Nov 2004 03:18:25 GMT, (Deadcarnahans)
>wrote:
>
>>>How did your dad buy a '66 car new in '74?

>>
>>He got it from his dad in '74, his dad bought it new in '56
>>
>>DC

>
>
>Wow-- that's even better, buying a car 10 years before it comes out.
>
>heh heh


Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
  #14  
Old November 15th 04, 07:57 AM
Cory Dunkle
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"Paul" > wrote in message
link.net...
> Let's see -- drum brakes, lap belts only, no air bags, poorly protected

gas
> tank... And you're giving it to your 18-year-old daughter? As a second

car,
> I hope, although I can't imagine what any 18-year-old would need with two
> cars.


What does age have to do with that? Technically no one needs more than one
car, and many people don't even need a car at all.

> I used to have a '66 Mustang. I got it from my dad, who bought it new, in
> '74, and I drove it for most of the next 16 years. I loved that car, but I
> finally had to conclude that it wasn't really safe to be driving my two
> young sons around in it. I would never consider giving a car with such
> outdated technology and such primitive safety features to an 18-year-old.


Now I've never driven a Mustang, but my first car was a '67 Galaxie 500.
That was a very safe car. I got it a couple years ago when I was 17. I drove
it for two years then sold it and got a '68 Galaxie 500. That '67 stopped
quickly, handled well, and accelerated quickly. It did well enough for what
it was and was safe.

The only accident I ever got in with that car was when I was sitting at a
red light, completely stopped. I was t-boned by an old hag who claimed that
I hit her. Damage to my car was limited to cosmetic damage to the door. Had
I been driving some econo-box my passenger likely would have been hurt and
the car would have suffered mechanical damage.

So what if it doesn't stop like some fancy modern s**t-box car? It makes no
difference. My Galaxie stopped very well, not quite as quickly as your
typical modern car, but very well nonetheless. You drive accordingly to what
your vehicle is capable of. I never had any trouble. Just like driving any
car, you don't overdrive the cars handling or braking and you won't have any
trouble.

Lap belts keep you in your seat. A good driver will avoid getting into an
accident in the first place, so whiplash won't be an issue from no shoulder
belt or head restraint.

The only significant thing a pre-68 Mustang would be down on safety with
regards to is a solid steering column. That could hurt you in a high speed
head on collision. Mustangs are compact unibody cars, same as the Falcon.
They _will_ crumple in high speed impacts just like any compact unibody car.
That and the single reservoir brake setup. A dual reservoir setup is a cheap
and worthwhile investment. Yeah, it's a long shot it'll ever come in handy,
but if one of your rear wheel cylidners ever blows a seal you'll be very
happy to have front brakes instead of using just the e-brake.


  #15  
Old November 15th 04, 08:10 AM
Cory Dunkle
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"Deadcarnahans" > wrote in message
...
> >The only thing that gave me pause was the brakes. Geez, they
> >suck. Is it just because I'm used to power assist, or are they really
> >that bad?

>
> Drum brakes do suck. The 66s brakes should be upgraded. You can retrofit

some
> Granada front discs onto it yourself or buy one of the available kits on

the
> aftermarket.
> At the bare minimum the single reservoir master cylinder should be

replaced
> with a dual unit from a 67 or later for piece of mind.
>
> DC


Personally I prefer the feel of drum brakes, and they can actually stop a
car better than disks. The problem with drums, and why disks were adopted as
standard eventually was because drums hold heat in and will fade and become
very hard when decelerating rapidly from high speeds. Big drums or
drilled/vented drums and the problem is significantly reduced. For example,
on my '68 galaxie with 11"x2.5" drums I am good for one emergency stop from
~85 MPH and my brakes are just about done. Even then, slowing that last
10-15 MPH takes a lot of effort. Despite that the car still stops in a good
distance for a full-size car weighing about 2 tons. My point is the brakes
were good enough in '66 so they are good enough today. Drive accordingly and
there is no problem. Leave an appropriate following distance (which most
people don't do, but shoudl anyway), and basically just don't overdrive what
the car is capable of.

But yes, a dual reservoir master cylinder is worthwhile. I wouldn't say it's
something that 'must' be done with any urgency, but is definitely worthwhile
for a daily driver. More than likely you'll never have a problem where you
lose all hydraulic pressure, but in the event you do, you'll appreciate the
dual reservoir system.

Cory


  #16  
Old November 15th 04, 01:57 PM
rw
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Cory Dunkle wrote:
>
> Power assist does nothing to make the car stop more quickly. If you can't
> lock the wheels, or the back wheels lock before the front then there is a
> problem.


This is puzzling to me. I'm a bicyclist, and I know that on a bike if
the back wheel locks before the front wheel it's no big deal, but if the
front wheel locks first, your face will be on the pavement.

I'm definitely getting the dual reservoir master cylinder. Thanks to
this newsgroup for suggesting that.

Finally, can anyone recommend a good vintage Mustang mechanic in the SF
Bay Area? I used to be a shade-tree mechanic, years ago, but I don't
trust myself to work on the brakes of my daughter's car.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #18  
Old November 17th 04, 04:59 AM
Cory Dunkle
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"rw" > wrote in message
link.net...
> Cory Dunkle wrote:
> >
> > Power assist does nothing to make the car stop more quickly. If you

can't
> > lock the wheels, or the back wheels lock before the front then there is

a
> > problem.

>
> This is puzzling to me. I'm a bicyclist, and I know that on a bike if
> the back wheel locks before the front wheel it's no big deal, but if the
> front wheel locks first, your face will be on the pavement.


Drive the Mustang, or any car without ABS. Get moving well and good, and in
a safe spot decellerate rapidly, then lock the wheels. You will feel
yourself stopping, the g-forces on your body, as the car stops hard. Then
when you lock the wheels you will notice a difference, right when the wheels
lock you feel the car move forward more quickly. That is to say, your rate
of decelleration slows. The limitation of _any_ properly setup brake system
is the tires. A tire has the most traction when it is rolling, and the least
traction when it sliding. Therefore, a sliding tire (locked wheel) will move
faster (decellerate slower) than a non-locked braking wheel.

Think about that for a second. What happens if you front wheels lock first?
Well the car will take longer to stop if you keep the wheels locked. What
about if the back lcoks first? If the back locks first the rear end of the
car will not have the same rate of deceleration as the front, and will be
trying to move faster than the front of the car and have little side to side
traction. The end result is that the rear end of the car will try to move
ahead of the front end of the car, which will manifest itself with the back
end sliding out to one side or the other and putting the car into a skid if
the driver does not know what he/she is doing.

On a bicycle I believe it's worse to lock the front wheel first because you
onyl have to wheels. The front steers and helps keep your stability more
than the rear. If you lose side to side traction on the front wheel it amkes
the bike very unstable and much ahrder to control than when the back wheel
locks.

> I'm definitely getting the dual reservoir master cylinder. Thanks to
> this newsgroup for suggesting that.


Good. I drive a '68 Galaxie 500 (first car was a '67 Galaxie 500, a few
years ago). In '67 Ford made dual reservoir master cylinders on all their
cars standard. My girlfriend wants a '65-'66 Mustang (will be her first
car). A friend from work has one he has had sitting in his garage for
several years he probably sin't going to do anything with. So we may end up
getting that car for her. If that's the case, since it's been sitting for
nearly 10 years one of the things I'm going to do to it is to replace all
teh wheel cylinders and the master cylinder. While I'm replacing the master
cylinder I'll put in a dual reservoir master cylinder and distribution block
from a '67 or later model car. Just one of those things that would probably
never be a problem, but if I'm in there I'm definitely gonna upgrade it
because I don't wanna take any chances with the girl I love over a
relatively cheap and easy conversion.

> Finally, can anyone recommend a good vintage Mustang mechanic in the SF
> Bay Area? I used to be a shade-tree mechanic, years ago, but I don't
> trust myself to work on the brakes of my daughter's car.


Brake work is pretty easy and straightforward, but if you don't trust your
work it's always best to have someone who knows what they are doing do the
work. If you don't know for sure about the carb or something it's no big
deal, the worst that happens is you won't go, but it gets real bad very
quickly when you can't stop! Emergency brakes don't stop cars very quickly
at all. Anyhow, I'm from the east coast, so I can't help you with a good
mechanic.


  #19  
Old November 17th 04, 09:04 PM
rw
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Cory Dunkle wrote:
>
>>Finally, can anyone recommend a good vintage Mustang mechanic in the SF
>>Bay Area? I used to be a shade-tree mechanic, years ago, but I don't
>>trust myself to work on the brakes of my daughter's car.

>
>
> Brake work is pretty easy and straightforward, but if you don't trust your
> work it's always best to have someone who knows what they are doing do the
> work. If you don't know for sure about the carb or something it's no big
> deal, the worst that happens is you won't go, but it gets real bad very
> quickly when you can't stop! Emergency brakes don't stop cars very quickly
> at all. Anyhow, I'm from the east coast, so I can't help you with a good
> mechanic.


Once again, I'll ask whether anyone can recommend a reliable and honest
Mustang mechanic in the SF Bay Area, preferably on the Peninsula. I'm
starting to get desperate.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
  #20  
Old November 17th 04, 09:26 PM
rw
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One thing I don't like about this car is that it's an automatic. On
modern cars I prefer automatic to manual, but not on this one. The 289
engine is so powerful and the transmission is so crude that I feel like
I have to keep extreme pressure on the brakes to avoid running into
something from a dead stop. Maybe the transmission is not right. I don't
know.

Is it a really big deal to convert it to a manual transmission?

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.
 




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