95 Jimmy4x4 w elect trans - EGR - can it affect shifting/engagement??

Sorry for the crosspost...

Hi there,

I have a sticking EGR on a 95 Jimmy 4x4 and I haven't been able to make the time to re/re it yet. The new one will be put in shortly. I am curious though about driving with an electronic transmission
with the EGR unplugged for an extended timeframe. The vehicle has been driving fine with the EGR unplugged (this EGR is fully electronic with no hoses) for about a week or so. Today the truck started to rev high
as it would if an EGR were stuck open. After some isolated high revs both in gear and in neutral, putting the truck in reverse wasn't consistent. It would act as though it was in neutral when put in reverse. After cycling
the ignition once or twice, reverse would then engage once in awhile. There is a CEL but I haven't scanned it yet as I just took it off a flatbed in my driveway mere minutes ago.

Thanks,
Andrew.

btw... the transmission is less than a year old and it was built like a tank (I was going to build this truck to support 1000hp so I built the transmission accordingly). The truck isn't abused and usually shifts to firmly
that it snaps your head a little unless getting off the gas a little (LT1 servo with a shift kit installed). My question is whether or not the EGR issue could affect the system from shifting into reverse....??

Thanks,
Andrew.

On Nov 20, 7:45*am, "Andrew" > wrote:
> Sorry for the crosspost...
>
> Hi there,
>
> *I have a sticking EGR on a 95 Jimmy 4x4 and I haven't been able to make the time to re/re it yet. *The new one will be put in shortly. *I am curious though about driving with an electronic transmission
> with the EGR unplugged for an extended timeframe. *The vehicle has been driving fine with the EGR unplugged (this EGR is fully electronic with no hoses) for about a week or so. *Today the truck started to rev high
> as it would if an EGR were stuck open. *After some isolated high revs both in gear and in neutral, putting the truck in reverse wasn't consistent. *It would act as though it was in neutral when put in reverse. *After cycling
> the ignition once or twice, reverse would then engage once in awhile. *There is a CEL but I haven't scanned it yet as I just took it off a flatbed in my driveway mere minutes ago.
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew.
>
> btw... the transmission is less than a year old and it was built like a tank (I was going to build this truck to support 1000hp so I built the transmission accordingly). *The truck isn't abused and usually shifts to firmly
> that it snaps your head a little unless getting off the gas a little (LT1 servo with a shift kit installed). *My question is whether or not the EGR issue could affect the system from shifting into reverse....??
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew.

Andrew-why run it w/o an EGR? Pull it-clean it and make sure the
pintle has full travel, doesn't stick and put a 'screened' gasket on
it and away you go. Unsure of your other issue but...scan it(probably
po 140x-EGR), clean it as previously explained-doubt you need a new
EGR-I've cleaned 100's-and then see what you have! jp ps not sure
about the high idle-sounds like a possible vacuum leak but....get the
EGR squared away-while it's off start the Jimmy-when safe, and rev it
a few times to get out any debris that may be en route to the EGR.pss
not sure at this point but my initial thought is your issues are
unrelated but whenever I have an obvious problem with 'spinoff'
problems fix the obvious one first and then who knows....maybe it'll
fix the second!

Thanks my friend! My trannie problem has gone from bad to worse so I am taking it the original builder this morning. I fear that it's a torque converter/sprag, sunshell, or one of the two that would have decimated lots of
good bands and pucks in the process. On the EGR side... Yes, I have cleaned and RE/RE'd many EGRs. I think this one has a problem with the pot that feeds back from the pintle but I can't be sure. I have another laying
around here as a backup. Why leave it disconected?? It was almost undrivable with it stuck open and there wans't enough hours in that particular day. I hope this gearbox isn't a money pit....
Thanks again!
Andrew.

>
>Andrew-why run it w/o an EGR? Pull it-clean it and make sure the
>pintle has full travel, doesn't stick and put a 'screened' gasket on
>it and away you go. Unsure of your other issue but...scan it(probably
>po 140x-EGR), clean it as previously explained-doubt you need a new
>EGR-I've cleaned 100's-and then see what you have! jp ps not sure
>about the high idle-sounds like a possible vacuum leak but....get the
>EGR squared away-while it's off start the Jimmy-when safe, and rev it
>a few times to get out any debris that may be en route to the EGR.pss
>not sure at this point but my initial thought is your issues are
>unrelated but whenever I have an obvious problem with 'spinoff'
>problems fix the obvious one first and then who knows....maybe it'll
>fix the second!

The EGR will not affect the trans. The valve bodies in those are
notorious for going bad/sticking.

> wrote in message
...
> The EGR will not affect the trans. The valve bodies in those are
> notorious for going bad/sticking.

Is there an upgrade or a technique that can "cure" the problem,
from the rebuilder's standpoint?

I hope it isn't anything nasty that's for sure. Thanks for the feedback. I would hate to dump this thing after putting a new transmission and motor with headwork in it....
Don't even get me started about the lovely vac actuated 4WD woes...

Thanks again,
Andrew.


>The EGR will not affect the trans. The valve bodies in those are
>notorious for going bad/sticking.
>
>

The bench exam showed 2 clutches smoked and a sprag overheated.
They said that I could likely drive for awhile with the torched sprag but they didn't recommend it as it would likely fail sooner than later.
2 clutches, 2 bands, and a forward sprag plus reseal at $1200 CDN.
I know the guy and he's a decent guy who usually builds phenomenal transmissions.
I don't know if I caused the clutches to burn or not but we used the highest quality Borg and TransGo components in that box.
I was a little shocked. I have been rough on it more than a few times but never run it dry and I thought it was built to take it. I guess I need to lighten up a little.

Thanks for any help and interest.
Andrew.

transgo products suc and have a high failure rate

Andrew wrote:

> The bench exam showed 2 clutches smoked and a sprag overheated.
> They said that I could likely drive for awhile with the torched sprag but they didn't recommend it as it would likely fail sooner than later.
> 2 clutches, 2 bands, and a forward sprag plus reseal at $1200 CDN.
> I know the guy and he's a decent guy who usually builds phenomenal transmissions.
> I don't know if I caused the clutches to burn or not but we used the highest quality Borg and TransGo components in that box.
> I was a little shocked. I have been rough on it more than a few times but never run it dry and I thought it was built to take it. I guess I need to lighten up a little.
>
> Thanks for any help and interest.
> Andrew.

This is the first time I have ever heard this. Anyway, it wasn't the
TransGo product that left the truck stranded....

Thanks,


On 29/11/08 11:04 AM, in article , "man of
machines" > wrote:

> transgo products suc and have a high failure rate
>
> Andrew wrote:
>
>> The bench exam showed 2 clutches smoked and a sprag overheated.
>> They said that I could likely drive for awhile with the torched sprag but
>> they didn't recommend it as it would likely fail sooner than later.
>> 2 clutches, 2 bands, and a forward sprag plus reseal at $1200 CDN.
>> I know the guy and he's a decent guy who usually builds phenomenal
>> transmissions.
>> I don't know if I caused the clutches to burn or not but we used the highest
>> quality Borg and TransGo components in that box.
>> I was a little shocked. I have been rough on it more than a few times but
>> never run it dry and I thought it was built to take it. I guess I need to
>> lighten up a little.
>>
>> Thanks for any help and interest.
>> Andrew.
>